[vdf3]

I want to put something on my 06 street bob and thundermax is looking like the best for me. I know it is expensive but since the nearest dyno is 2 hours a way and doubles the cost of anything else anyway it seems to be not so expensive anymore.

My question is that I have read that some of the others mess with the turn signal resets and some of other electicals, does the Thundermax since it replaces the whole ecm have all these other things programed into it? Or does the ecm only run the engine and there is something else that runs the speedo and lights and other electricals.

[vdf3]

Ok, I just realized another question.


Has anyone else installed a thundermax on a dyna? There site says it may have clearance issues on dynas?

[steveb]

I installed a Power Commander on a '05 Dyna and it is a very tight fit to get the PC to fit in the small space under the seat. The best thing you can do is try to install when evrything is warm so you can move the wires around easier to get the box in the space you have. Mine fit but you have to be patient and work it in .

[cardboard]

Originally Posted by vdf3

I want to put something on my 06 street bob and thundermax is looking like the best for me. I know it is expensive but since the nearest dyno is 2 hours a way and doubles the cost of anything else anyway it seems to be not so expensive anymore.

My question is that I have read that some of the others mess with the turn signal resets and some of other electicals, does the Thundermax since it replaces the whole ecm have all these other things programed into it? Or does the ecm only run the engine and there is something else that runs the speedo and lights and other electricals.

I've installed thundermax with Auto Tune on 2 dyna and a soft tail.
I've had very good luck with them. I've never installed a tuner I like better.
I like the TM with A/T
If I remember right a 06 don't have 02 sensors. you will either need to add bungs or replace the header pipes with bungs already it them.


The Thundermax replaces the whole ECM it controls the speedo, and everything . There are calibrations in the TM for it.
Go to zippers website and download the installation on it. Mabe it will help you understand the unit better. I would read it before making a installation to make everything go simpler.

[vdf3]

Well, I bought the Thundermax autotune. I am reading the online guide now waiting for the mail.

Thanks for all the help.

My 06 does have O2 sensors, plus I just purchased a set of V&H Big Shot ceramic for my first upgrade on the Thundermax. I figure I get the tuner and have it pre set from them for the stage 1 on the bike and then I get to re map once the pipes get here.

I have seen the demo screens for the tuner, but does it give Hp and torque like a dyno.

The online manual says I have to re initialize any time the battery is disconnected, I think, it is in manualeeze.
Can this really be right? That would mean anytime I did work on bike I would have to reinitialize the computer.

I have never heard of this for any other computer(car or bike).

[cardboard]

Originally Posted by vdf3

Well, I bought the Thundermax autotune. I am reading the online guide now waiting for the mail.

Thanks for all the help.

My 06 does have O2 sensors, plus I just purchased a set of V&H Big Shot ceramic for my first upgrade on the Thundermax. I figure I get the tuner and have it pre set from them for the stage 1 on the bike and then I get to re map once the pipes get here.

I have seen the demo screens for the tuner, but does it give Hp and torque like a dyno.

The online manual says I have to re initialize any time the battery is disconnected, I think, it is in manualeeze.
Can this really be right? That would mean anytime I did work on bike I would have to reinitialize the computer.

I have never heard of this for any other computer(car or bike).

No it will not give you hp or tq.

If you disconnect power you reinitailize it so it can find the tps and other parts of the bike to make it easier to crank.
How often do you pull the main or disconnect the battery ?
It takes a few minutes reinitialize the unit. Once you've done it you don't pay any attention to doing it.

[vdf3]

you do not re initialize the stock computer when you take the battery out.
And Yes I plan on installing LEDs and working on the turns signals and tail light. These are all expensive toys, and will take time to purchase, they also require disconnect the battery.

So yeah, I was surprised about the re initialization several time in the next year.

Thanks, for the help.

[cardboard]

Originally Posted by vdf3

you do not re initialize the stock computer when you take the battery out.
And Yes I plan on installing LEDs and working on the turns signals and tail light. These are all expensive toys, and will take time to purchase, they also require disconnect the battery.

So yeah, I was surprised about the re initialization several time in the next year.

Thanks, for the help.

Thought we was talkin about the Thundermax.

[vdf3]

We are and yes the initialization process is simply turning on and of the motorcycle three times.

I have been reading the manual and am looking forward to installing this weekend if it finally gets over freezing here in the deep south. The wires are kind of stiff in this cold weather.

Hopefully, I will figure out how to use the projects pages and post this very interesting project along with some of the other additions.

[cardboard]

If you pull yer side cover and pull the 60 amp fuse 1st. Its pretty much just taking the factory ECM out and puttn the TM in and runnin the wires down the frame to the bung holes and puttin the 02 sensors in, Iniatilizing the bike and if you ordered it with a preset program make sure the closed loop is set and go from there. If you read one part it says let the bike idle till it reaches 285* and cut it off. You will have to link and turn the monitor on to watch this.
Its pretty much plug and play. Ride the bike and let it do its thing. The TM A/T is a very good unit. they best I've ever had or put on.

[duke76]

I think with the new software it got rid of the part to get up to 285 for the IAC control. Todd

[vdf3]

They still ask for you to initialize and then run at idle until 275 but says you can terminate the process at any time and run at any other time also.

My pipes come in this week, so I get to reprogram the Thundermax already for the new pipes.

I also can not wait to set the fuel curves for economy and then haul butt when wide open throttle.

[duke76]

I think some of the newer maps, the ones above 400 I think are already set for fuel economy so you might not have to even mess with them, also you may want to get a few tankfuls of gas through it anyway just to see how it acts so you have a baseline to see if you are helping or making it worse. Todd

[cardboard]

Originally Posted by vdf3

They still ask for you to initialize and then run at idle until 275 but says you can terminate the process at any time and run at any other time also.

My pipes come in this week, so I get to reprogram the Thundermax already for the new pipes.

I also can not wait to set the fuel curves for economy and then haul butt when wide open throttle.

Got the opportunity to take the Zippers Thundermax class last December.
They said for us to initialize the bike, this is so the bike can locate the TPS and everything.. Its still a good idea to let it run to 285*
if you don't let itrun to 285* the bike will work itself threw it with the new software, but it just takes longer for it to do it.
When it gits to the bottom line the more time you take to properly set the TM up the better results you git out of it.

[duke76]

[QUOTE=cardboard;53063]Got the opportunity to take the Zippers Thundermax class last December.

I didnt know they had a class, where are they located? how much is it? I would be very interested in them. I talked to them at Sturgis this past year and they told me lots of the issues they have with peoples bikes are people who dont understand what they are doing change something and makes the bike run worse, he told me just put a map in thats close and the t max will do the rest, that is what it is made to do, self tune, so the class would be very helpful so I wouldnt screw up anything, although I just plugged in a map and it runs better than it ever has for me and I get 40 mpg so I am a happy camper, Todd

[cardboard]

[QUOTE=duke76;53065]

Originally Posted by cardboard

Got the opportunity to take the Zippers Thundermax class last December.

I didnt know they had a class, where are they located? how much is it? I would be very interested in them. I talked to them at Sturgis this past year and they told me lots of the issues they have with peoples bikes are people who dont understand what they are doing change something and makes the bike run worse, he told me just put a map in thats close and the t max will do the rest, that is what it is made to do, self tune, so the class would be very helpful so I wouldnt screw up anything, although I just plugged in a map and it runs better than it ever has for me and I get 40 mpg so I am a happy camper, Todd

I was workin at a Indy mototcycle shop and got to go threw them.
They was having another class on dynoing up north, but if you didn't understand everything about a dyno machine we was told we wouldn't be able to understand anything about the class. it was for advanced people, so that left me out.
The general public is not invited to the classes. The general public can't become a dealer.
I set up the Indy shop I was workin at as a Zippers Dealer also.

[vdf3]

Well, I installed the Thundermax yesterday along with a set of Big shot staggered pipes. I figured since I was installing new O2 sensors I might as well only do it once.

It was rather straight forward install, except how to run the O2 sensor wires and what to do with the old O2 sensor wires. I think that was the only problem the company did not deal with was what to do with the old wires and no pictures on where the new wires run. They give instructions, sure but my front sensor plug wanted to meet right at the brake mount. Not in front or behind, each end made it just to the brake.

I plan on taking some pictures to send to them to see if the routing I chose is acceptable.

I did the entire setup including the IAC config. which is when you let the bike warm up to 275. The only problem I ran into were forgetting to turn on the rocker switch one time and getting an error reading that made me think I wired the pig tail up wrong. But like I said, I just forgot to flip the rocker switch to RUN. Then I turned the bike off at the end before unplugging he cable, and got another error message. I just had to reattach the plug and turn the bike on to solve that one.

It ran pretty rough during the IAC session, and a little rough when I went for the first trip around the block. The second trip was a little better. Then the third trip so I could fill up the tank was a couple of miles and was much smoother. I stopped by to thank a guy who helped during the install and the handle bars barely vibrated at all (much smoother than stock).

The throttle response seems much faster already.

I do plan on running at least a couple of tanks before I change anything. I can not wait on watching the gauges though, I think I will be checking in on the computer each tank so I can watch the changes.

Thanks to all of you that helped and I hope to post some pictures soon.

[cardboard]

Did you buy it with a Base map loaded or did you load one, and how could you crank yer bike and let it run to 275 with the rocker switch cut offf and iniatilize the bike ?
If you had problems runnin yer wire for the oxygen sensor to the front , Guess you didn't try to run it under the gas tank and tie it up there.
Hope you clicked on the auto tune mode in the setup also.

[duke76]

Mine ran rough too when I did the IAC and for a little while afterwards, I was starting to get a little nervous but then I took it out and did just like yours starting running really good, really started running smooth, It just keeps getting better, Glad you got it going, Todd

[vdf3]

Have some pictures I want to put up to show the path of the o2 sensor. I wish I had the brillent idea of running under the tank, but instead followed their directions and ran it behind starter and down to frame rail and up front of bike like factory line.

I would love to tell more but went out the next day and the front tire was flat, the pressure gauge did not even register. And now it has rained for two days.

I pumped up the tube on the front tire (39psi) and have lost NO pressure in those two days of rain. I already called the indy shop to schedule a new tube. I am very confused about what to do. I am assuming I am going to ride the bike to the shop and talk to them, since I have an appt. already and it is supposed to be sunny and 72 tomorrow.