[Scott]

First off, hello and thanks for making this place available for those of us who ride.

Now, took my ike out for the first time after winter storage and I can't keep my battery charged. It charges fine on the battery charger, but when riding it drains down to where it won't turn the starter. So here's my question along with what most recently happened (three hours ago). --

Riding along and the engine pops and kinda chokes but runs fine after coughing once. Then, a minute or so later it began popping and choking constantly while running about 40 mph. Eventually it died and I coasted to a stop, and it wouldn't even make a clicking sound when I tried to start it. I pulled the plug on the stator and there was a small amount of oil(?) or perhaps some kind of lube where the plug connects. A guy came along and gave me a jump and I was able to get home, but like before it will not turn over, although it will if connected to a charger.

How difficult is it to replace the stator, or, should I look elsewhere for the charging/coughing/popping sound problem?

Thanks in advance.
Scott
EDITED TO ADD: It's an 88 C.I. RevTech motor.

[hotroadking]

Do you have a sm there is a specific set of tests you can to to tell if the stator is fried. You need an ohms meter, pull the stator cable off the regulator and check to see if its grounded, if so it's toast, then you have to get the bike running and then check voltage. I don't know all the numbers off the top of my head but the SM details the test.

Having had a couple let go it sounds like your stator is toast.

Regulators rarely let go

To change it out you pull the outer primary cover, remove the clutch basket primary adjuster and remove the compensating nut, then pull out the whole assembly and the rotor is behind the comp nut, it will pull off then the stator is behind that.

Replace the parts, put it back together (red loctite on comp nut) and you might want an impact wrench to get the comp nut off.

TQ it back on and put together.

[Scott]

Roadking, thanks for the answer and advice. I was hoping it wouldn't be a stator problem, but I guess it sort of sounds like it is.

What bums me is when I put it away last winter it ran and charged fine. It wasn't until I put the battery back into it and fired it up a few days ago that this happened. Actually, when I did try to start it, it ran on one cylinder. I pulled the front plug and it was soaked, and the rear plug was fine. I dried it off and swapped the front and rear plug and it fired right up and ran perfectly. Then, when I rode it around for a few hours the battery went dead, but there was no popping, sputtering sounds. But today, after charging the battery I rode for two or three hours and on my way home it began to pop and choke out. To the point where it actually stopped running. But it felt and sounded like it was only running on one cylinder. And like I said earlier, a guy came along and jumped me and it fired right up and I was able to make it home (about a mile away). Shut it off and it was dead as a door nail.

Anyway, thanks again. I appreciate it.

[DaveFxst]

Sounds identical to a Sportster problem I had a few years ago. In my case, wiring under the seat got separated when I reinstalled the battery (disconnected the stator). Had to trace the harness, which was a pain, but found the pinch point and added a short length of wire to prevent the strain that caused the break. If your plugs are badly fouled, that's a real clear sign of the problem.

[hotroadking]

Get a shop to test the stator and do a load test on the battery, if the stator is working and the battery is dead, maybe take a charge but can't hold it you may only need a new battery.

Shouldn't cost you more than $20 at any indy shop to get that tested (about 1/2 hour labor at most.)

[CD]

Stators usually get toasty because of excess load or being under very high load for a long time.

If your battery was not fully charged you placed an immediate high demand on your charging system that can cause the regulator or the stator or in some cases both to fail. The charging system in an H-D (or any vehicle for that matter), has never been meant to charge a battery from being dead to fully charged. This is why a battery that is under charged never seems to fully recover even after a long ride. Besides not helpgin your battery to recover faster you also keep the charging system maxed all the time. Add lights and ignition and a heat related failure is well on the way.

The moral of the story is to keep your battery on a battery tender when in storage or even if you are not able to ride regularly. If you end up needing a jump, charge the battery fully using a charger and check the charging system before riding again.

Oil will weep into the stator plug from the primary over time so don't assume the stator is fried yet. Here is a link to an article that will help walk you through the trouble shooting of charging systems.

https://www.directparts.com/static/a...alternator.htm

[Scott]

Excellent! Thanks, guys.

[Scott]

Battery was totally shot and the system just coudn't keep it charged it up. Replaced it with a new Interstate battery and rode it around today and ut started up every time. Prior to getting the battery I checked out the stator and the regulator. Both were good! Man, do I feel BETTER!!!

Thanks to you all for the advice.