Going to big on the pilot can actually make the problem worse as it can add to the combustable mix too much and make for a bigger bang. Make sure you still need to use the enrichener if starting dead cold. If you can start and idle with little or no enrichener, you might be to fat on the idle circuit. This added fuel can cause more of a minature back fire than a lean pop. I have come across way too many people running #48-50 or larger pilots and think it is fine to have a puff of black smoke come out as the wick the throttle. Your idle circuit should only be rich enough to provide a smooth, strong low RPM acceleration and a good transition onto the needle circuit (main).
What taper needle are you using? A lot of times, using a faster taper needle like a Sportster needle can get it right. You want to have some more fuel just off idle as the RPM comes down.
As a side note:
This is where the custom carburetor kits came into being. The whole concept was and is to make tuning simpler by providing an assortment of needles, mains etc. In some cases, a jet kit is the only way to alter jetting. The big 4 are not well known for being willing to supply different jets to their customers.
At our old shop, we had needles, squirter nozzles, mains, intermediates, pilots, you name it for most carburetors. When the Yost kits first came out we were sceptical about his claims but, by simply using his jet holder (emulsion tube), needle and main jetting we increased HP over what we felt was spot on tuning. Some tuners call jet kits "snake oil" because they can tune a carb better using off the shelf components and, some of them are probably that good and have done the leg work. If you want to make that claim for just the CV you would need to have a good selection of mains and pilots which is no problem. You would also need a selection of needles with different tapers. Big problem as there are not that many to choose from and raising or lowering the needle just is not always going to get it done.
Lean pop off idle and a lot while decel can be reduced with proper jetting. Some lean pop will almost always exist. Not all the time, maybe once in awhile or some bike have it worse that others. Seems to be related to exhaust design, flow, back pressure and what you are doing to the throttle at the time. If you are light on the throttle, do your downshifts at lower RPM's you are less likely to get lean pop than someone that is more aggressive and uses more RPM braking.
If you think about what Dragon Slayer is saying for second you can understand a lot better. If you start your downshifts at say 2,000-2,500 RPM and I start mine at 3,000-3,500 RPM I will pump a LOT more cold, unburned oxygen into those nice hot pipes than you will and you will most likely hear me popping away. If I were to ride like normal, it would be more like a 4,000 RPM downshift point so I expect some (lots) of popping..
...I say that it is just talking to me
no good as the the bike was then too fat and still popped on decel. The 3rd thing tried was installing a Dyno jet emulsion tube and needle from a jet kit I had. This did seem to improve the acceleration and helped some with the popping. The last thing I tried that seemed to further improve it was setting both pipes to full Tq closed. I may try more needle adjusting but ran out of time today. Seemed to run strong no hesitation, we'll see what MPG does. 
, called Dyno tech line and they said it would work, even though the Dynojet part numbers for the needles EVO Vs TC are different. 
