[hotroadking]

Buddy has a 98 RK

Has Elbruto, Crane hi-4 8-2100 module

New coil, new plugs, new plug wires.

Bike was EFI, all thats gone no VOES

It's missing on the rear cylinder while he was up in Michigan, local shop fixed the wires to the ignition module (butt crimped) and it ran fine then started missing on the rear cyln.

I am going to OEM connectors to replace the butt connectors so we have a solid connection.

I was thinking about crossing the rear firing line with the front so I could see if the miss follows the iginition or if it stays at the rear he has a bad coil.

I think this would be the best way to determine ignition, wires or coil problems it's been in a couple of shops and it's continued to happen.

[CD]

HRK,
If the coils are single or siamesed then swapping coils leaves you still stuck with a wire, coil or plug wire bad?
If it is single fire, you cannot swap the trigger leads or it is bang city.
The way I would do it is much like you are saying.
1. Swap the coil by swapping input (trigger) wires and plug wires.
If the problem goes away, get a new coil.
2. I the problem is still there, use a known good plug wire and test.
Could actually do that first.
3. If the problem does not follow the wiring....look at the module.

[hotroadking]

It is a single fire igniton.

We put a tester in the plug lines it hooks to the plug wire and plug with a small light bulb in the middle.

The rear had a good bright pattern, the front didn't have much very little light if any at all.

I switched the black and white wires and the problem followed the switch, I think it's the ignition otherwise the problem would have stayed on the front plug if the plug wire, coil or wires to the coil were bad. Just my thoughts.

It will not start at all, just turns over and won't start.

[hotroadking]

Here's what we found, switching the trigger wires moved the problem, so it had to be in the ignition

Pulled the igniton and one of the pickups on the back of the ignition was missing, so it couldn't fire the cylinder.

Got a new HI-4, wired it straight up to the coil, no joints etc, that way no wire problems.

It turns over but it won't fire and start, get the light on the tester on both cylinders now (a good thing)

Battery has been load tested it is up to par

Had him pull plugs front looked ok and rear looked like it was glazed,

We are putting in new plugs this evening

I think maybe we have the ignition to advanced, I am going to retard the module to see if it will fire.

Any thoughts appreciated,

[CD]

HRK, like we say, it takes air, fuel and spark.....All at the right time.

You have verified everything I can see except compression but I will make the assumption you have done that also.

I think you are right, timing is everything. I would start from scratch on the timing and set it to the flywheel. Set the front piston to TDC firing and see if the light triggers. If it does then rotate clockwise until it goes out. That is TDC timing and we have had good luck doing it this way then advancing to the correct advance mark.

[CD]

Ops forgot one thing. Cranes are very sensitive to voltage drop. If the timing is set right, you got fuel and compression try using a jumper wire from the 30 amp to the positive side of the coil (hot wire). There is a way to fix it if that is the problem.

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/90003000.pdf

[hotroadking]

OK I'll check that, it's getting spark to the plugs, checked that this eveing

Also did a leak down, no leaks so the motors healthy.

When you try and start the starter just wears down fast, the battery has 13 volts but it won't keep cranking, So we pulled off all the wires, cleaned up the connection area, dremeled off the powdercoat at the ground in the battery box, and a new star washer. Also pulled off the ground to the starter case, it's a polished starter but dremeled out that area and hooked it back up.

Too late to try and start it in the neighborhood, it's a bit loud with the pro pipe.

I also brough him my spare battery even though the batter "load tested" at the shop OK it could have been brought to it's knees on the starter.

I found a wear spot on the positive cable, the guys that built it ran the cable and no cover (hard plastic wrap) so I taped up the small cuts and ran plastic covers over the ground and positives.

Connections should be good now, it's been a hard starting bike anyway so maybe this will help.

I will check timing as you indicated too.

Maybe a fresh battery and connections will help, if not the starter could be dragging it down. If it can't crank fast enough with the plugs in it wont start anyway, so I"m working from the little stuff on down.

Did a leak down test and everything was good.