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Feuling Oil Pump


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Old Nov 28th, 2005, 05:53 PM   #1
tvelotta
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Is the pump a direct replacement for the stock HD pump on a '99 rubber mount TC 88?
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Old Nov 28th, 2005, 06:41 PM   #2
00 wildglide
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Yes, It is a replacement pump.
Just installed mine a few months ago,put 5,000+ miles on it & believe it has
decreased the "wet-sumping" of oil out my air filter compared to before.
I would consider the DELKRON cam plate also if you decide to go with the pump-
better flow than the o.e. stuff & better bearing bore size(the outter cam bearing
races fit too loose in some early twin-cams).Check with D.P.s, It may cost some,But I'm sure you'll be glad you did it.
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Old Nov 29th, 2005, 02:40 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvelotta
Is the pump a direct replacement for the stock HD pump on a '99 rubber mount TC 88?
It is a direct bolt in replacement for the stock oil pump. All of the 99-01 pumps had issues with sumping and wear. I had a failure of my own oil pump a while back. The "improved" current pump was crap also. Added a Delkron cam plate, TW37G cams and gear drive and the only thing H-D in the cam chest is the pinion.
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 06:27 AM   #4
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On a side note....I read somewhere, that Mr. Fueling was involved in the design of the Twin Cam oil pump....

I wonder if he saw the shortcomings and didn't tell them; so he could make some money....or if the moco was too cheap to make a better pump?
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 07:48 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seahag
On a side note....I read somewhere, that Mr. Fueling was involved in the design of the Twin Cam oil pump....?
According to Gene at Feuling and others this is true but it was in the context of the entire design of the engine lubrication and cooling system. Feuling was called in because H-D was having trouble keeping the engine cool enough without having very large cooling fins which Willie G would not go for. Feuling redesigned the oil system adding the piston oil jets and combustion chamber etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seahag
I wonder if he saw the shortcomings and didn't tell them; so he could make some money....or if the moco was too cheap to make a better pump?
From what I was told it was actually the other way around. Jim argued against the oil pump design since the pinion would always have some run-out, wear of the gerotor would be a factor. He also got upset over the way a "certain" individual at H-D basically whacked about half of the cooling fin surface. He left the project and began design of the Feuling pump. His 4 valve EVO heads were something else and were incredibly efficient.
http://www.landracing.com/news/feuling.htm
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Old Nov 30th, 2005, 02:19 PM   #6
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Wow...I read the information found at your link. I knew the guy was talented, but now I have a better idea of just how much our cycle community lost when he passed away. ...****, he always takes the good ones don't he
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Old Dec 5th, 2005, 06:55 PM   #7
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Since the Feuling pump is thicker is there a set of alignment tools out there?
Does it get the alignment like the stock pump? Does it really help with sumping????
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Old Dec 6th, 2005, 07:56 AM   #8
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You use the longer Jims tappet alignment tools. BTW, there is no "tool" per se as it is really the tappet alignment tool used on EVO's and previous.

Does it help with sumping? I have not had any sump up blow by since and I have not had a single problem except a short run of them with a clearence issue if memory serves.
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Old Dec 6th, 2005, 07:59 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seahag
Wow...I read the information found at your link. I knew the guy was talented, but now I have a better idea of just how much our cycle community lost when he passed away. ...****, he always takes the good ones don't he
On his old site, they had an article about an all ceramic engine he designed for GM I believe. The man was a Burt Rutan on the ground.
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Old Dec 17th, 2005, 08:12 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sundance
Since the Feuling pump is thicker is there a set of alignment tools out there?
Does it get the alignment like the stock pump? Does it really help with sumping????
Just follow the instructions for allignment.
I installed Fueling pump and cam plate. bike peggs out a 60psi gage when cold and idels at 50 psi when warm. When I wick the throttle , while sitting on kick stand and oil warm, it blows the seal out of the oil filter.
Does anyone have any ideas how to lower the oil pressure? Stock cam plate spring maybe? I havent take it on any rides yet. My concern is losing the seal out on the road...
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Old Dec 17th, 2005, 09:12 AM   #11
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I've never heard of anyone having the kind of pressures you do at idle...yes I've seen my gauge near 60 when the oil is cold...but never so high when the oil is warmed up. I run 35-40 going down the road and 12-15 at idle when warm.

I'm thinking the pressure relief valve in the cam support plate is stuck. That has been known to happen with the HD stock spring because the coils aren't ground off even so it can push the plunger kinda cockeyed and jam it.

Pull the roll pin in the support plate, then remove the plunger and make sure the port is good and clean, use a light emery cloth to buff the plunger before reassembly.

If you really want to do it right, put the baisley oil spring in there from baisley performance. They make an upgraded spring that is made of sturdier stuff, cut and ground square. It also raises oil pressure slightly...but you don't have to worry about running even higher pressures, since you'd already be exceeding the pressure relief springs rate.
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Old Dec 17th, 2005, 06:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seahag
I've never heard of anyone having the kind of pressures you do at idle...yes I've seen my gauge near 60 when the oil is cold...but never so high when the oil is warmed up. I run 35-40 going down the road and 12-15 at idle when warm.

I'm thinking the pressure relief valve in the cam support plate is stuck. That has been known to happen with the HD stock spring because the coils aren't ground off even so it can push the plunger kinda cockeyed and jam it.

Pull the roll pin in the support plate, then remove the plunger and make sure the port is good and clean, use a light emery cloth to buff the plunger before reassembly.

If you really want to do it right, put the baisley oil spring in there from baisley performance. They make an upgraded spring that is made of sturdier stuff, cut and ground square. It also raises oil pressure slightly...but you don't have to worry about running even higher pressures, since you'd already be exceeding the pressure relief springs rate.
Where can a guy get one of these springs? I have been surfing with out any luck...
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Old Dec 17th, 2005, 09:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjb358
Where can a guy get one of these springs? I have been surfing with out any luck...

Baisley Hi-Performance
5511 N. Interstate Ave.
Portland, OR 97217
(503) 289-1251 Fax: (503) 286-4980
baisleyhp@aol.com

I believe the one most folks are ordering is: LMR-002
Please confirm with Baisley.
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