[ctd]

I posted earlier asking about what type of oil to use in my 883 XLH. I was going to buy the synthetic but then stopped because the mileage is low. If I remember right, synthetic shouldn't be used for the first 3,000mi. Is this right and should I only use dino oil up to the mileage? Any oil recommendations?

Thanks,
Steve

[AFNurse]

I put syn in mine at 1000 miles....would have been sooner, but time wasn't available.......

[ctd]

Thanks for the information, I didn't know you could put it in that soon. I haven't used synthetic for an engine before, only in axles etc. Thanks

[ctd]

CD, we talked about the oil to use in the bikes, but I don't think I asked about the use of a synthetic on a low mileage bike. I am sold on the synthetic and had planned on using it when the light went off about break in for "X" amount of miles. I guess it's a carry over from my Dodge diesel where they recommend 10,000mi. on the clock prior to the switch. I just didn't put both thoughts together when I asked the original question. Sorry.

[hotroadking]

No big deal there's still a lot of misinformation out there.

You can swap to syn the day you buy it, The only reason to wait until 3K or 5K is that is the first oil change interval.

Nothing is wrong with the oil that came in your bike, so change the product to synthetic oil when you have to change it next time.

[johndublu]

Originally Posted by ctd

I posted earlier asking about what type of oil to use in my 883 XLH. I was going to buy the synthetic but then stopped because the mileage is low. If I remember right, synthetic shouldn't be used for the first 3,000mi. Is this right and should I only use dino oil up to the mileage? Any oil recommendations?

Thanks,
Steve

I read an article on line (automibile oils verses motorcycle oils) It explaned how many years ago the big detriot engines turned very slow and how todays auto engines are more in line with high reving engines and how safe it is to use most auto oils in any motorcycle. The tests were done by a scientist and they used a DNA machine for testing. If you want the real skinney on high priced motorcycle oil you just gotta read this article

[ctd]

Which article are you referring to? I need to change the oil in the bike's engine as well as primary/trans. So looks like a good time to put the synthetic in. Thanks for the guideance, it's been quite a few years since I've owned a bike and I'm relearning everything. I know a lot of you are very knowledgeable, as where I'm a newbie, so bear with me.

[hotroadking]

CTD
Go ahead and change to synthetic all the articles out there on this say the same thing anymore, you'll just end up reading things forever.

In any event put in the syn now if you're changing oil

Now for the next question what oil!

I wouldn't use HD SNY3 in a trans I tried it and the trans was noisy

With AmsOil Synthetic gear oil my trans clicks nicely and is quiet.

Syn3 in the primary is a good choice

Syn3
AmsOil Synthetic 20W-50
Castrol Vtwin oil 20W-50
Mobil1 Vtwin 20w-50
Mobil 1 Gold Cap AUto 20w-50

I would run the vtwin oils myself but many run the mobil one car oil, recent tests showed it was basically the same as the mobil1 vtwin oil only difference is the lable basically so it's more of a marketing game as HD owners will spend more per qt and less is made therefore price is higher.

[ctd]

Thanks for the guideance, and I do plan on changing the oil. I just received my bike from the shipper, so when I checked the oil dipstick, it was just touching the end. The bike had been sitting for over a month, so I assume it has drained down into the crankcase. I can't see a place to drain the crankcase, only the hose you pull off to drain the oil tank. I plan on getting the synthetic today so I can change it out, but need to get the old oil out first.

Thanks for the help

[hotroadking]

Start it and get it warm get all the oil into the tank then drain and change the filter.

[ctd]

I got it started, let it warm up until the choke could come off all the way, then rechecked the oil level. It was frothy but above the "add" mark about a quarter inch. Not as full as I would have liked, but probably still in the safe zone. I assume the froth was from the counterweights hitting the oil, then it was pumped up to the tank where it belonged. Does that sound right?

Thanks again, it is appreciated.

[Seahag]

these are a couple of my favorites:

http://www.quickthrottlemag.com/article_syn.htm

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oilinfo0.htm

motor oils tests on the nightrider site does a direct comparison of auto oil to cycle oils...and the quickthrottle mag article tests about 5 popular motorcycle oils and Mobil 1 15W-50 automotive formula....guess which one the tester ends up using in his bike when the testing is done?

By the way...that nightrider site has gobs of harley tech information. You can and will learn a lot by going through that site.

[greggarage]

synthetic oils or mineral oil As long as you keep to you oil change intervals you don't need to go for the expensive synthetic oils, the advantage of synthetic oil is the longer intervals of oil change. But if you like working and petting your bike like i do, then just use the regular mineral oil ,but a good brand Synthetic oils should not be used in high mileage bikes or cars , because after the first warm up, you will notice after a wile ,oil leaks creeping by old and worn oil seals, this oil is a very fine oil.

[ctd]

Good advice. I noticed on Valvoline who makes a dino 4stroke motorcycle specific oil vs. Mobil 1 V-Twin, was the difference in API ratings. The Valvoline had the usual SF, SG, SJ etc. but the Mobil 1 had one additional. It was rated CF. I know in the Harley Owner's Manual, it states if the HD oil isn't available, to use a diesel rated oil. Anyone care to shed some light on that? I realize diesels have different operating characteristics, and they seem to make more water condensation than a gasser if they don't get hot enough to burn it off. I can't see why the M/C engines would need the diesel additive package.

Thanks

[CD]

Originally Posted by greggarage

synthetic oils or mineral oil As long as you keep to you oil change intervals you don't need to go for the expensive synthetic oils, the advantage of synthetic oil is the longer intervals of oil change. But if you like working and petting your bike like i do, then just use the regular mineral oil ,but a good brand Synthetic oils should not be used in high mileage bikes or cars , because after the first warm up, you will notice after a wile ,oil leaks creeping by old and worn oil seals, this oil is a very fine oil.

Joist 'taint so and has been proven time and again. A 30wt oil is a 30wt oil. The wife's tales just keep rolling along.
BTW, My old '65 Stang never leaked and she got regular feedings of synthetic earl. Skating bearings, leaky seals, too thin etc....

Perhaps we could create a reference FAQ that lists the multitude of sites where these facts could be cleared up. Engineers and scientists in labs have no vested interest in it one way or another. Virtually every rag on the market has either paid for or cited various tests and they all will say that Synthetic oil is better than Dino juice.

It still boils down to the fact that a good Dino is fine when changed frequently. A synthetic gives better protection longer and will resist breakdown under heat load unlike Dino oil.

Run what you like but please, please do not propagate these myths.

[ctd]

SeaHag, some pretty good reading at the sites referenced. They seemed to be presented in a non-biased manner. It appears that in all the tests, including these, in extreme conditions the synthetic oils are the winners hands down. I agree with Greggarage changing oil is paramount in longevity of any piece of rotating machinery. I would think petroleum oils if changed on a regular basis would be adequate as well. What did all the Harley, Honda etc owner's do before synthetics became available? Those bikes lasted a long time as well, so something must have been good with the conventional oils. Now we're all trying to get the magic elixir for our bikes so they won't wear at all. Bottom line, longevity is closely related to frequent oil changes in MY opinion.

In the articles referenced, the oil engineer stated he would run 75-90wt in the transmission if he could vs. 20-50wt. That probably would work in the bikes with separate transmission cavities that don't have a clutch sharing the same oil, or am I incorrect there? The more I learn, the more involved it becomes. Thanks for the great references.

[greggarage]

Thank you CTD . As CD said "A synthetic gives better protection longer and will resist breakdown under heat load unlike Dino oil." true but like i said keep to your change interval and you don't need syn oil . Back home in England my old man change his oil when he remembered, the Norton commando looks like **** but the engine is still running and never been O/H .back then no one used syn oil ( probably added oil due to losing it so he probably though why change it) LOL

[ctd]

Norton's, I remember those from my high school days, they were quite the bike. Like you said, a lot of bikes back then leaked more than they used, so the oil was always fresh! LOL

[CD]

Originally Posted by ctd

SeaHag, some pretty good reading at the sites referenced. They seemed to be presented in a non-biased manner. It appears that in all the tests, including these, in extreme conditions the synthetic oils are the winners hands down. I agree with Greggarage changing oil is paramount in longevity of any piece of rotating machinery. I would think petroleum oils if changed on a regular basis would be adequate as well. What did all the Harley, Honda etc owner's do before synthetics became available? Those bikes lasted a long time as well, so something must have been good with the conventional oils. Now we're all trying to get the magic elixir for our bikes so they won't wear at all. Bottom line, longevity is closely related to frequent oil changes in MY opinion.

In the articles referenced, the oil engineer stated he would run 75-90wt in the transmission if he could vs. 20-50wt. That probably would work in the bikes with separate transmission cavities that don't have a clutch sharing the same oil, or am I incorrect there? The more I learn, the more involved it becomes. Thanks for the great references.

Well, comparing a water cooled bike to a H-D really is not a good example. Knuckle Heads, Pan Heads and Shovel Heads will ALL benefit from Synthetic oil for two simple reasons. 1, it runs cooler and two, it does not break down under heat load as soon as a dino oil does. Also, all of these engines will live longer if you run synth oil as it will help reduce top end wear.

I have said this before as an example. During the development of jet engines, synthetic oil had to be developed that would withstand the extreme temps. Dino oil coked up regardless of what was done. A GTCP85 Gas Turbine runs at 42,000 RPM and the rear bearing rides on an a thin film of oil. Temps are from 800º to as high as 1400º and the oil does not coke and lasts hundreds of hours. This sold me on synth oils way back when I worked on these engines.

[greggarage]

CD do bikes run that hot, from 800º to as high as 1400º CD not saying that syn oil are bad , No they are better as you quoted ,all I'm trying to say is it only an option, if you are going to ride you bike from Canada to California at 1oo mph all in one ,then yes use syn. Or if you are worried or not sure about the running part and friction, there is Slick 50 for bikes Like my bro all he uses in his bikes are syn