[Seahag]

I can't remember the members name, but one of you knows how to paint.

I've been painting my inner fairing the last few weeks. In the next week or so, I'll be laying down the most important coat...the clear coat.

Now the black came out with a bit of orange peel look, but I'll be adding another coat this next week...so theres a chance to correct that either in the black, or in the clear.

I've got 400 and 800 grit paper to sand in preperation for up coming coats...and tack cloth to clean up the sanding dust.

When I spray, do I want the paint to look wet?...or am I supposed to be laying down a fine mist that just slowly builds up?

Finally, if there is a bit of texture to my final clearcoat, can I buff it out using a polishing compound?

[Killer-B]

That would be chuckTx, I’m sure its just a matter of time before he chimes in…

[chucktx]

Originally Posted by Seahag

I can't remember the members name, but one of you knows how to paint.

I've been painting my inner fairing the last few weeks. In the next week or so, I'll be laying down the most important coat...the clear coat.

Now the black came out with a bit of orange peel look, but I'll be adding another coat this next week...so theres a chance to correct that either in the black, or in the clear.

I've got 400 and 800 grit paper to sand in preperation for up coming coats...and tack cloth to clean up the sanding dust.

When I spray, do I want the paint to look wet?...or am I supposed to be laying down a fine mist that just slowly builds up?

Finally, if there is a bit of texture to my final clearcoat, can I buff it out using a polishing compound?

hi seahag.....lets see if i can help ya out here......
how many coats of black did you spray..
how was it sprayed...a gun or rattle can....
you need some fine sanding paper.....1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry
what type of clear are you using, 2part epoxy (the best) single stage, or rattle can.
if you give me the details, i can help you to get a really nice paint job..........
chuck

[Seahag]

Originally Posted by chucktx

hi seahag.....lets see if i can help ya out here......
how many coats of black did you spray..
how was it sprayed...a gun or rattle can....
you need some fine sanding paper.....1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry
what type of clear are you using, 2part epoxy (the best) single stage, or rattle can.
if you give me the details, i can help you to get a really nice paint job..........
chuck

They are all rattle can. Krylon Fusion for the base coat since it is supposed to bond with plastics.

The silver and Clear are Plati-Coat offerings of acrylic enamels.

I've done a test piece to check for compatibility and paint lifting...tested good.

Prepped the ABS fairing with 180 grit sand paper. Cleaned with a wax and grease remover several times. Shot probably six coats of black waiting 5-10 minutes in between. Sanded the area to take silver paint with 800 grit paper, cleaned with tack cloth, taped off, and shot probably 6-8 coats of silver metal flake.

I planned to tape off the silver portion this next weekend and shoot a couple more coats of black to clean up the lines and make sure I have a nice thick base coat before the clear.

Then I'm not sure if I should wait a full week (as I have been) to paint the clear or just let it set up for an hour and shoot clear.??

I know this may not come out looking like a pro paint job...but for the budget I'm on, I think it will look nice.

Heres a pic of how it looks so far.

[Seahag]

I'm new to photobucket...and I'm not at home so I don't have access to an image editor....sorry for the over large pic.

Whats this two part epoxy?...I've used epoxy glues and I like the sound of that. Does that come in clear? I need a product name and I can look into picking some up if it would work better and not be overly expensive.

[chucktx]

hi seahag......the 2part clear is the same as clearcoat/basecoat. it is expensive, but worth the money for custom paint jobs. i really llike what you have done with your fairing!!! looks really good.
when you are finished with the color coats, and are happy with what you have done, then check for orangepeel. if you decide to remove the orange peel, wait the allotted time as instructed on the can. a week is ok. use 1500 or 2000 grit wet/dry to remove the orange peel. i start with 1500 then go to 2000. keep the surface wet with water at all times while sanding. to help keep the paper from building up with residue, i put a few drops of dawn dishwashing soap in my bucket. be sure that the bucket is clean before using it for a sanding bucket...one grain of sand at this point will upset you!!!! lol lol. once the orange peel is removed to your liking, dry it real good, make sure all water is removed. clean it with some solvent and you are ready to clear. using clear in a rattle can is ok....i have seen some fantastic clear jobs with them. you want to build in light layers. tha can will give you recoat times....i would let the first coat sit a bit longer to help it bond to the base color coat.....then respray as per instructions. if you get a run or a sag...dont panic. have a bit of masking tape handy, roll it in a circle and stick it to itself...sticky side out. gently apply the sticky side to the sag or run, pull away move to another spot on the tape and do it again, until the sag is removed. dont worry about the mark that is left, it is easy to remove. you want to do this while the clear is wet. after you get the desired coating of clear and need to do a bit of sanding...use the same method as you did with the color, then clean and polish. let the clear set as per can instructions, then wait a couple of weeks before polishing...the clear will take a while to completly cure, and if you sand to early you will get little balls of clear, not powder.....hope this helps, if not ask away and i will do my best to help ya out!!!!! good luck and have fun
chuck

[chucktx]

oh ya.....i use ppg clearcoat system......175.00 per gal
chuck

[Seahag]

Thanks so much Chuck!! I've been waiting all day for your response and I think you gave me exactly the kind of information I need.

I have Meguiar's Step 9 polishing compound at home that I used last winter to remove some scratches from my saddlebag lids and tank.

Will that make a good final polish for the clear?

[Seahag]

I thought of another question Chuck.

When you sand with the really fine 1200-1500 paper, do you sand in staight lines?...or a circular motion?

How bout when using the polish? I have a small random orbital buffer with a polishing pad (sheep wool looking one)...would you use that or buff it out by hand?

By the way....this is the polish I have at home:

http://www.autogeek.net/meg9swirrem.html

[chucktx]

the polish you have will work fine......as for sanding, you have a lot of different contours....you need to try to follow them the best you can. i have an 06 electraglide, and the innerfairing is the same as yours. i dont see using a power polisher doing you a good job. they work good on flat surfaces, but with all the nooks and crannys you have, i dont think it would be the best tool to use. you can try on the more open spaces, but where it doesnt hit you will need to do it by hand......be very careful when using power buffers, especially because of your different contours, you stand a good chance of burning through the clear. i would do it by hand.....get some polish, newspapers on the livingroom floor...tv, beer......have fun!!!!!
post some pics when done, i would like to see them. it will also prove to a lot of folks who think they cant do it, that they can, and have a ball doing it. cant wait for you to hear from someone say" you did that your self??" "how much do you charge to do mine!!" "that looks great!!"
chuck

[Seahag]

Thanks Chuck, You've been a big help.

I just haven't decided if that one sag in the middle of the speedo/tach is worth sanding back down and adding another step....I may just try to find some decal to fit in that area

[scooter]

Let me be Captain Obvious here...don't forget to CONSTANTLY shake that can. It'll keep the consistency of the paint just right.

Just had to say it....hope it was it least worth a laugh, if not a good reminder.

Scoot

[Seahag]

Followed your instruction in regard to wet sanding and the build up of clear. I am very happy with the results as they stand right now. Hopefully it looks as good when the paint dries completely. Thanks for your help Chuck. These pics were taken while wet.

[chucktx]

i thinkyou did an exellent job!!!!! looks really good, and it should look just as good when dry... another thing to not worry about......if it blushes.......gets foggy....dont worry about it. this happens in humid conditions. let it dry good then hit it again with the clear....in a less humid enviroment.....again, i think ya did a great job!!!
chuck

[CD]

Seahag: Great looking job!

[AFNurse]

So, when do you have time to do mine??!! Mine would require LESS time to do, as even with yesterdays low of 26ish and todays low of 33ish, EVERY day is a riding day!!! Looks good.

[Seahag]

Originally Posted by AFNurse

So, when do you have time to do mine??!! Mine would require LESS time to do, as even with yesterdays low of 26ish and todays low of 33ish, EVERY day is a riding day!!! Looks good.

Thank god for winter up here....or this would never get done. I'm five weeks into this project and I still have to get everything reassembled. With my bike an hour away at my Mother in laws, I've had to wait a week in between each step of the job.

The results are going to be worth it though. Thanks for the praise guys. I'm doing my best. Not too bad for a first timer; but I think I know of some things that I can improve next time. And based on the comments from my father in law, I think I can expect a next time when I do his.

[AFNurse]

I would have tried STARTING with his......learn on HIS bike, then get it totally right on mine!!!

[Sleepy]

looks good....

[Seahag]

Since the last look, she's had two weeks to cure. I then polished out the clear coat, pinstriped the fairing and cap, and reinstalled the mirrors (which were also painted). Heres a before and after look (although I have yet to reassemble the fairing).



And here is why I knew this had to get done: