[toofat]

Running a krafteck frame [ american quantum liciened from the kenny boyce " FXR pro street frame" ] & werks shocks & trying to ride two up is killing my tire budget [ bottoming out easily with a 13" shock ] & making life hard as i'm confined to trolling @ last call for nasty's with a car
Saw mention that you've experienced fxr pro street frames in reading thru your site .
Seriously thoe questions I have concerning the shocks mounting angle [picture] due to the swingarms mounts ,,,, will spending cash on heavier rated shocks solve my crisis or will this set ups [frame to swing arms angle] geometry limit me to solo riding for good or struts .
If a heavier rated shock [ i'm 270# + passenger + saddle bags , ttl approx 480# + ] would work , is there anything shock wise that you'd recommend that a working , riding man could afford , as looking @ the perf. hd 440's price hurt me worse than riding slow so as not to lose sight of my last call bride to be following home

Thank for any help & you've got a ton of useful info here !

[DeathWind]

I think from the picture (hard to see) but those shocks, if Works Performance Trackers, have the threaded spring preload http://www.worksperformance.com/html/tpl_desc.html. Have you adjusted the preload for a stiffer ride to help prevent bottoming out? The web site also mentions a couple other methods to adjust these shocks. May be worth looking into before dropping $300-600 for a new set.

Ride Safe

[toofat]

[ photo skillz & shinking sizes sux sry ]

Have had two types of the werks on this ,
1st were 12" gas - adjusted for max load bottomed with only me on 'em
2nd set [pict] 13" fully set to max load bottom with passenger / me & bags they're fine
also ran peff 418s air shocks [can see where i had to clearence the strut] for two up air pressure so stiff might as well run steel struts [no absorbsion at all]

Quite a few unanswered e-mails & 0 answers phoning werks , would've done whatever they said all along if they supported they're product[s] .

The other style of this frame has a shorter swing arm & the shock mount is located closer to the engine / making the shock location more striaght up & down , also an entirly different [shorter stock type shock] is used see here
http://www.frontiernet.net/~normteck/bike/quantum.htm as an example , but it also adds hieght & shortens the bikes length , not what i was after using this frame , also the smaller swingarm i believe would be more suseptable to bending [ from torque ] as i've had other problems ie: axles - belts bending or breaking on take offs , forcing me to run a chain rear & an axle support to allow for my habbits
its a rubber mount frame also if it matters & doing heavy long rides @ high speeds is why i chose it [the longer style frame] as for my comfort

thanx for any idea's

[CD]

First of all, this is a typical Kenny Boyce Pro Street frame. We built quite a few of these in 1995-1996 when they were really popular. In it's not so infinite wisdom, H-D discontinued the FXR in '94 so they could concentrate on the more traditional appearing FXD Dyna models. The FXR has a triangular frame section that a lot of "purists" claimed it looked to "Jap". Those of us that owned FXR's and rode Dyna's knew the truth. The FXR frame (stock type) was designed by Eric Buell and is the strongest frame H-D has ever produced for a Big Twin. The frame virtually has no flex in it. This is why so many of us like the stock style frame. You can build a sweet handling ride with say, a Chopper Guys stock type frame.

The KB Pro Street frame is a lot differrent than the original FXR frame design but still utilizes the FXR / FLT type drive train. There are a couple of problems with the design. First, the shock angle is extremely steep which increases leverage. This requires a much longer shock with much higher spring rates and stiffer valving. A 13" over the counter shock will not have the correct spring rate or valving. Second, the extreme angle actually pulls the drive train back and creates a clunking problem and eventually will trash the Cleave Blocks and the front motor mount. Yours looks like it has the stock style swingarm which is notorious for flexing and twisting. If you look at the swing arm on my FXR build, you will see a girder type brace welded to the sides of the swingarm. Look at the right side right above the Pro Pipe.

We modified several KB frames to move the shocks to a more vertical position and it worked very well.

[toofat]

thnx cd , the clunking is oil bag hitting the primary & or starter ? caused by stiffining your shocks , forcing the the frame to "fold" @ swingarms thru bolt ?

will be looking into moving the shocks angle more verticle then & thusly a shorter heavier shock .
any photos of the fab you did to the swingarm would help get me going

thanx for the insight !