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May 9th, 2006, 09:49 PM
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#1 | | Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Arizona
Posts: 3
| I have a 1986 FLHTC which I will be replacing the rear belt. I would like to know the best way to make sure the belt is aligned properly and how to do this. Plus, I have a 32 tooth front or transmission pulley right now (stock). I was wondering if I went to a different size how that would affect the gearing and performance. If I went a tooth or two smaller would the give me more top end or am I backwards in this idea. Any help would really be appreciated.
Last edited by Cemoto : May 9th, 2006 at 10:14 PM.
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May 10th, 2006, 01:06 AM
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#2 | | Very Active Poster 50+
Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Germany
Posts: 71 Interests: guns, hunting, old tractors Occupation: US Army
| Smaller front or larger rear = more bottom end, out of the hole, get up and go
Larger front or smaller rear = more top end higher overall speed or less rpm at cursing speed.
I think I’ll leave the other question to someone that can explain it better than i. but while you are replacing the belt is the perfect time to change the pulleys if your gona. I believe if you want more top end it is better to change the front to a larger size. You can use the same stock length belt with it but it will move the rear wheel forward a little. If you go with the smaller rear you may have to get a shorter belt because it will move your wheel too far back and you will run out of adjustment in the swing arm. www.nightrider.com has some charts that will show you what your ratio will be with different size pulleys and how it will affect you RMPs at a given speed. They also have tips on the pulley alignment as well. |
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May 10th, 2006, 04:17 AM
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#3 | | Very Active Poster 50+
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: East Central Indiana
Posts: 93 Occupation: Cad/Cam Tool designer
| Agree, if you want lower RPM at road speed, larger front pulley. It will make the bike feel like it takes longer to wind up thru the gears, but the actual performance will not change much. If you were able to beat your buddy, say, 0-60 by a bike, after the swap he may be able to beat you by a bike. If I'm not mistaken, 2 teeth should drop your RPM's by about 400 at 60, give or take. |
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May 10th, 2006, 06:29 AM
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#4 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: spokane
Posts: 847 Model: 03 883 XLC-CHOPPER Occupation: welder
| I Did This Once To Get Higher Top End. My Only Problem Was I Noticed That When I Let Out The Clutch To Go I Had To Get On The Gas Because It Was A Real Slugish Start. I Realy Didn't Notice Enough Difference Because Most Of My Ride'n Is At Low Speeds. I Did Notice On Highways Being It Was A Sporty 4 Speed, Ride'n With A Big Twin, It Seemed To Be Top'n Out With High Rpm And Vibration. While The Big Twin Was Run'n Nice And Smooth. I Don't See Sporty's Being Much On The Long Highway Ride'n, Bar Hopper Is More Suitable. |
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May 10th, 2006, 07:13 AM
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#5 | | Administrator Has posted 500+
Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 1,533 Interests: Fishing, wood working, flipping off Fred Fox Occupation: Founder of Bike Talk....retired and lovin' it
| In the service manual you will see a procedure that needs to be followed to get the belt aligned. Make a simple indicator that will allow you to measure from the center of the swing arm pivot on the Cleave block to the center of the axle. A piece of welding rod with a 90º bend at one end and a sliding pointer at the other end will do.
Going from a 32 tooth pulley to a 34 tooth will drop RPM about 250. If you do not have a modified bike with some additional torque the downside is that you may have to downshift while passing or going up a hill. Variables like the total weight your bike will carry on a trip, what mods have been done to increase torque and you geography should be considered. |
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May 10th, 2006, 04:42 PM
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#6 | | Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Arizona
Posts: 3
| Thanks for the information. This will be the first time the belt has been changed, and my first attempt. Belt lasted 20 years and 50,000 plus miles. Real happy with that. |
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