[maxpower_hd]

I bought some fat T-Bar handlebars for my 99 Fatboy that are already drilled for internal wiring. It looks like I have plenty of wire to feed through the bars without having to splice and extend the wires. I would like to avoid splicing them just to feed them through the bars unless I really have to.

I took the tanks off, unplugged the right contol harness from the main harness and started taking apart the plug itself. I pulled off the solid cover on the end of the plug and have the pins exposed. I began pulling one of the pins out and it appears to be crimped on the end. I would like to find out if a) are the pins able to be removed from the plug without detroying them and b) can I purchase these pins if I end up wrecking one or two in the process?

If I have to splice them I will. I just thought it would make for a much neater job if I can do it at the plug since I don't need to add any wire.

Thanks,
Dave

[goats_hogs]

I can't speak for the exact wiring you are asking about, but I believe you can buy the pins. Case in point, I wanted to wire in one of the rear turn signal converters on my 1991 FLHS. The kit comes for a 1997 and up model, and plugs inline the the connection under the seat. It comes with the red lens for the rear turn signals. It turns your turn signals into brake lights but still works as turn signals. The 1991 only had 5 wires, and the color coding was different than the 8 wires on the newer bikes. I bought the plugs themselves, the pins, and then wired it up. Works like it was made that way, and I can unplug the "brain" unit and plug the old system in at anytime should the brain go bad. I'd guess the pins are the same for it, as in the handlebars. Hope this helps, if you need I may be able to come up with the part number even. I think I still have the receipt at the house, not with me now.

Later, Brent

[bikerjim1]

You can get just about any kind of wiring harness, pins, connector made for automotive through many electrical supply warehouses. Might look around on the net also.

[maxpower_hd]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help.

If you have the part numbet handy Brent, I would appreciate it. Don't go out of your way though.

I might try Radio Shack on my way home and see if they have anything.

Thanks,
Dave

[00 wildglide]

MAXPOWER,
I believe you should be able to purchase those pins,connectors,&connector lock-tabs from your local H-D dealer.I did when I did the internal wire job w/
T-bar's on my DYNA.I would recommend getting a H-D parts supplement manual for future reference,It is very useful when a visual of how things are assembled is needed.Sometimes the O.E. shop manual is a little vague with details.The pin removal should be fairly easy once you remove the center lock-tab.Good Luck!
00 wildglide

[hotroadking]

If the wires are long enough you shouldn't have to clip pins off, just remove them from the housing, and make a diagram if you don't have the manual, nothing like getting it together and pressing the horn button and having the high beam flash LOL Don't ask how I know.

I would remove the black plastic wire sheath and then run a single wire through on each side, mount up the bars and pull the wire through (one wire will do) then see if it will reach to the statioinary connector on the frame without stressing the wire.

If you have to splice do it in increments , cut one up 3 inches from the pin, splice in the extension and then solder and cover with shrink wrap that way the pin is still useable and the proper color is on the end of the extended wire.

stagger the cuts so you don't have a huge bulge in one place for all the splices.

[chucktx]

along with the info given, there is a tool you can get to remove and install those pins, with out damaging the housings.....and a service manual is a good tool to have also.....it tells the color coding of the wires.....
chuck

[roadrnnr]

You only need a small Screwdriver to remove them. Just look in the plug and you will see what holds them. Just lift that plastic piece slightly and they come right out.

Make sure you mark what hole they all came out of or your in trouble

[maxpower_hd]

Thanks everyone.

I was able to remove the connectors without destoying them. It was pretty easy.

I used a trick from a search here to run the string through the bars. I basically tied a loose not at the end of the string, taped up all the holes except the two I was using and blew air through the bars. It worked perfectly.

I am having some trouble getting the wires to come through with the connectors though. I got frustrated and quit last night. I will continue tonight and see what happens.

[goats_hogs]

Glad you were able to get them thru ok. The pins are a pain, took me several tries to get it right on mine. Good luck. I take it your don't need the part numbers for them now. If you do, post here or email me at goats_hogs@yahoo.com

Later, Brent

[roadrnnr]

Tape up the end with electrical tape and stagger the ends. Spray with WD-40 or equivalant. I used a mechanics wire taped to the end real good. Just work it through slow and they will go

[yankeerl]

I am doing the internal wiring this weekend. My wire looms are too short, so I am having to do the splice to extend them 6". Not real sure how it's going to go, but I have a wire diagram I am laying out to keep the splices right. I bought a kit from a guy on ebay, it has the wire (color coded), solder, shrink tube, zip ties, and additional sheathing. I will let you know how it goes.

RL

[maxpower_hd]

Originally Posted by goats_hogs

Glad you were able to get them thru ok. The pins are a pain, took me several tries to get it right on mine. Good luck. I take it your don't need the part numbers for them now. If you do, post here or email me at goats_hogs@yahoo.com

Later, Brent

Thanks Brent but I was able to get them at the local steeler...............FOR FREEKIN $.60 EACH!. Not that it was a lot of money bit JEEEZ. They're freekin wire connectors.

I got the wires through and plugged back in last night. Not too bad of a job once you've done it.

Unfortunately, I have to buy a new set of grips now. The throttle side was broken inside and I didn't know it. When I took the controls apart, a couple of little pieces of broken plastic fell out. Now there is nowhere for the cable to lock into. It must have been held together with the housing itself or something. Too much twist of the wrist I guess.

Thanks again guys.

Oh BTW yankeerl, I just wrote down what wires go where in the connector and it was a breeze to put back together.

[dts]

what I did seeing that my eyes aren't what they used to be is took my manual down to an office fax copier place and had them blow it up ,mounted it on my wall and now a seeing eye dog can read it