[ffflhtcui]

I was under the impression that a Stage 1 re-calibration was a computer upgrade done by the dealer at the dealer's location in the form of a computer download to my ECM. I've been seeing on eBay people selling Stage 1 re-calibration cartridges.

Can I buy a Stage 1 cartridge for my 2004 FLHTCUI and install it myself or do I need to pay the dealer for parts and labor? The HD catalogue says the re-calibration costs $150 but I assumed that was all labor. Will I still have the original configuration cartridge in my possession in case I want to revert back to stock? Or, is this something else I am seeing on eBay?

Thanks, ahead of time.

[hotroadking]

It's a dealer installed only option you have to have the right tools to download.

If you get the race tuner you can upload maps and change them so if you are planning to go further, cams pistons, heads etc down the road the race tuners the way to go.

Downloads are a one time one purpose deal.

A dfo will let you add fuel to the system, DFO's premise is that all bikes are too lean to begin with and if you add air they get leaner and all you need is fuel, not totally wrong but it's a one way bolt on part.

A powercommander will allow you to add or subtract fuel and spark where needed, usually under more powerful builds and in some mild builds you might need to lean out in certian areas.

[ffflhtcui]

My bike is a one month old Ultra which is running way too hot for comfort. The only reason I was considering the Stage 1 download was to richen it up and maybe it would run cooler or at least down in the bearable range. If that doesn't work, I'm selling this oven.

I saw what you wrote about the synthetic oil and cooler. You are probably right but I think it's ridiculous that one would have to add modifications to a brand new touring bike to make it usable. The only time I experienced the same type of heat on my other twin cams is when I stopped at a red light in July or August. The heat just boils off the rear jug at 70 mph. I don't carry a passenger but I don't see how they could hold their foot on the right rear floorboard for very long, if I did.

Thanks for your comments.

[hotroadking]

Thing is the TC motors don't run any hotter but they have bigger cooling fins so they disburse heat better which means you get hotter, part of the problem is solved by reducing the inner temps of the motor.

It's running fine, it's just too hot for your tastes the temps you're at now are probably within the design of the motor. To reduce them to something that will make you comfortable is the option.

Do it one step at a time. Change the oil to Mobil 1 synthetic auto oil 15W-50 in the motor only, do not put it in the primary. This should reduce your operating temps 15 to 20 degrees, and it's cheaper than HD Syn3 and it's probably less than your dealer is charging for HD 360

If that takes care of it, then you're good to go,

The other thing, do you have lowers on the bike? If so you should remove them in the Summer, this is common on a lot of my friends baggers, they take them off in June July and Aug, or some company offers a set of flip open trap doors that go in the lowers to allow air into that area.

Finally check into HD's oil cooler if all else fails, you could also go stage 1 and get a bit more performance and drop on a DFO or powercommander to add some fuel and that will cool the bike down.

But start with the Mobil1 it might just cure your problem and certainly won't hurt.

[ffflhtcui]

Hey Hotroadking,

Thanks for the feedback.

This is my fourth twin cam so it's not a new experience........but it's the first one I've had a heat issue with.

I took the lowers off when I got home from picking the bike up new.

Are you saying that the Mobil synthetic oil for autos is what I should use? For non-synthetic oil, HD recommends diesel quality. That's not the case with synthetic? The dealer tech advised using synthetic, of course he meant $8 a quart HD oil. He's the same guy who says that 265 degrees is normal operating temp sitting in the air conditioned shop idling even though the service manual says 230 degrees in normal operation (on the road under load)

Thanks again.

[hotroadking]

There have been tons of tests done on the oils, the great oil debate raged on for the last 4 years before HD finally dropped the SYN3 on the market it was generally accepted practice at the dealers to scare people out of synthetic, now they simply try and scare them into HD SYN3.

Mobil 1 15W-50 will work in your bike, the only difference is a small amount of additives between mobil 1 car oil and mobil 1 v-twin. if you feel the need to have V-twin on the label Castrol Syntec V-twin is under $7 a qt still cheaper than HD Oil.

here is a link to an oil tech site that has a motorcycle section, so you can get all the oil info you want BOBISTHEOILGUY in the first post you'll see a link to some research on mobil1. I think it will help you understand and quell any thoughts as to mobil 1.

If you have the lowers off, then change the oil to synthetic for your next change and see if that helps. Also change the gearbox oil to Redline or AmsOil synthetic gear oil, really helps the trans smooth out.