[04flhtci]

I'm going to be doing a cam swap and if I can't find someone local to press the bearings on I will be doing the freezer/oven method. But, with the gears do they get keyed/pinned in somehow, or do they need to be pressed on as well?

[CD]

Welcome aboard.

Are we talking pre TC88 cam and gears or TC88 gear drive or?

[04flhtci]

'04 TC88 and it will be Andrews 26g with S&S gears.

[CD]

The four gear set comes with 3 woodruff keys two for the inner cam gears and one for the cam drive sprocket. You're going to pretty much need a press to put the bearing in and the cams into the cam plate and the gears to the cams.

Plus you have to press the old cams and bearings out and replace the inner bearings. There are several special tools needed to do the job properly. We do rent the needed tools.

[04flhtci]

Do you rent the tools to people far away? How much and how does that work (mail 'em back and forth?) I know the tools that I need and was debating on buying them, but then why buy for a one time deal. Thanks for the responses.

[hotroadking]

Check for a harbor freight store in your area, for the cost of paying labor to have a set pressed you can get an inexpensive press perfect for the home shop, I"ved used mine for more than cam gears, clutch baskets etc.

[ironhorse]

something I have done before (more than once) is use something sturdy such as a channel frame, a car, work bench etc. and a bottle jack depending on the tonnage. and if you do heat anything don't over heat, a butane plumbers torch you can heat until between 250 and 280 or as I do in the field spit on it and if it dances off it is hot enough of course the freezer is for the other end of the spectrum. when you are pressing check every thing 3 or 4 times and assymble once its a lot cheaper that way.

[CD]

Originally Posted by 04flhtci

Do you rent the tools to people far away? How much and how does that work (mail 'em back and forth?) I know the tools that I need and was debating on buying them, but then why buy for a one time deal. Thanks for the responses.

Yes, we rent them for 15 days. What we do is sell you the tools and when they are returned we deduct the rental fee. Give Sam a call @ 800-368-6217 for more details

[mwelych]

I just noticed... You're new here. Welcome aboard. Great forum, with great folks who are incredibly helpful. Also Direct Parts is the BOMB!!!!

[04flhtci]

Thanks to all. I might just have to do the rental deal. Sounds like a good plan. Another dilemma...opinions on cams are like...well you know, everybody has one I was told that I may not be happy with the 26g. I do mostly 2-up riding. I plan on doing the cams in a stock 88 and then do a 95 sometime in the future so I need a bolt in that would be good for both stock 88 and then a 95. Some are saying Woods TW6, Andrews 26g and the list goes on. What do you all suggest?

[CD]

Cam threads are almost as dangerous a subject as oil . The easiest way to determine what cam you need is to understand your bike, riding style and the terrain. The heavier the bike and the total load, the more low end torque you need. Riding on flat land like is one thing but, climbing mountains with a two up load is another thing entirely. Torque is what does the work and Horse power is a mathematically derived from Torque.

In a nutshell, a torque type cam will have moderate lift and relatively short duration. A mid range cam will have higher lift and longer duration and a top end cam will have large lift and long duration. Things like lobe separation angle, Overlap and center line are all part of the equation.

Andrews designs and grinds more cams for V-Twins than any other manufacturer. They are Crane Cams of the HD world if you will. They have designed many SE cams and many of the SE grinds are derived from Andreas cams.

Another major consideration of cam selection are any long term engine mods. If you are thinking of going 95", a TW26 is not really a good choice because it will not allow the engine to develop all of it's potential power. If you plan on going 95" and having only minor head work done, a better choice would be the TW31G. It is very similar to the TW37G but with different event timing so it builds power lower in the RPM range. The TW31G or the TW37G will do the job well on both a 88" or a 95" set up. I run the TW37G on a 95" with flat top pistons and no head work and get right at 100ft lbs of torque. My HP is down because of the lack of head work but with some mild porting, I would be in the 90+ HP range. A TW21G would give similar results but lower in the RPM range.

Andrews has an excellent tech staff and they can help you make a choice.

[hotroadking]

I am a woods believer the cams make great torque, are expensive but they work, his profiles are more aggressive and you'll probably make a bit more tq with the tw-6, stay away from the 6H it's a 590 lift. at that point you're doing head work

As CD said a good cam for an 88 to 95 build is the tw37B, with heads and 95 100/100 isn't out of the realm for power.

Put one in an Ultra stock heads and 88 cui, with pipes and filter and pcUSB and it's making mid 80's HP and about 92 Ft pounds of TQ replaced an se211 which is similar but the profile is designed for higher RPM power so he's got more TQ down bottom where it counts.


Nothing is wrong with the cam you selected, it's rpm band is about 2500 to 5000, the 37B is 2800 to 5800

The bigger motor will work better jmo with the 37B especially if you send the heads off to get them street ported, which I highly suggest you do to take advange of the cams.

Having said that the 26 is a good 88 or 95 cam.