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Jan 27th, 2007, 02:45 PM
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#1 | | Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3
| I have a 2000 Classic with 95 ci kit and high flow K&N air filter. I am getting engine oil blowing out the air cleaner and dirtying the side cover and sadle bag. There are no leaks and does not seem to burn oil yet uses a quart in less than a 1000 miles. Any ideas on what to check? |
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Jan 27th, 2007, 05:02 PM
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#2 | | More than 100 posts!
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 124 Model: '04 FXDL Interests: drag racing, muscle cars, street rods, annoying others
| There are some fixes for blow by. The cause is from the downstroke of the pistons creating a tremendous amount of turbulence in the case. The trubulence can prevent the oil from the heads draining back to the case, it builds up to the point it overpowers the breather and spits out the air cleaner. My humble opinion is S&S solution that makes a reed valve that goes over the crank bearing under the oil pump. The valve allows the displaced air past the bearing but not back through. The air equalizes itself through the cam bearings but the process reduces the turbulence and stops the blow by. Their is another product called "the cure" by Doughtery that entails drilling the return oil hole larger in the head, and a different designed breather apparatus that resisits getting overwhelmed. Either one is going to take getting into the engine somewhere. The problem is worse when you increase the cubes as it is now displacing more air, or travel at higher speeds for a prolonged period of time. The stock air cleaner is so restrictive that it will pull any blow by back into the carb and burn it. The less restricted aftermarket air cleaners breath better but allow the blow by to drip out instead of burn it. |
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Jan 27th, 2007, 06:32 PM
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#3 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Stanton, NJ
Posts: 1,298 Model: 04 Dyna WG (with a 240 rear tire) Interests: Harleys, drag racing, family, fishing, my rottweilers, the UFC Occupation: Carpenter/Builder
| Reese, I knew you would have an answer. I remember this topic coming up before, I just couldn't find the answer for him. How you been? Unfortunately for me, no progress on the bike. My heats not working in the lower shop, and it's cold as hell down there. As soon as my HVAC guy finishes my new ductwork, I'll be able to work down there comfortably again. But I ain't freezin, especially when I can't ride now anyway. Talk to you soon, Chris |
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Jan 28th, 2007, 07:30 AM
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#4 | | More than 100 posts!
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 124 Model: '04 FXDL Interests: drag racing, muscle cars, street rods, annoying others
| Hey Chris! Hope you get that heat running soon, have you done what you needed to do to the rear fender? |
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Jan 28th, 2007, 12:03 PM
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#5 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Stanton, NJ
Posts: 1,298 Model: 04 Dyna WG (with a 240 rear tire) Interests: Harleys, drag racing, family, fishing, my rottweilers, the UFC Occupation: Carpenter/Builder
| Not yet Mike, I've been so busy at work, and like I said, way too cold to ride anyway. I'm gonna cut the original struts back a piece, then cut some windows into the rear fender to get the clearance I need, then the boys at USA cycle will weld in some "cups" for me to seal up the holes. Just a matter of time to get out there. I just got home from work and I only got a few minutes to take a shower and head back out. I have to go and get a massage, I can barely take a deep breath without pain in my back and shoulders, and forget about sleeping, hurts just to lay there...I'll update you when I can.....(regarding the bike that is)  |
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Jan 28th, 2007, 09:24 PM
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#6 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,034
| one of the big causes of oil blowby is an improperly aligned oil pump.
Assuming you have had cam work done, the shop or person that did it needs to align the oil pump using the proper tool which HD sells, it basically is a tappet block alignment screw, you take two of them and put them at opposite place usually 1 and 4 (4 screws in a box patter) screw them in they are tapered and they set the oil pump up properly. Put the other two in and tighten then remove the setup screws and put in the original.
Or if the gasket and flapper valves in the rocker boxes were not installed or replaced this can be a problem. |
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Jan 29th, 2007, 10:52 AM
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#7 | | Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: CA
Posts: 6 Model: 2000 FLHTC Interests: Hunting Fishing riding my bike making sure my lab gets his exercise Occupation: retired
| I have the same problem even with the Dougherty ... my fix was to not load up the engine when going up in the hills and down shift sooner on long trip in the mountains. There have been occassions when doing in excess of 110 for more than twenty miles that the oil was still there. I like the centering idea ... I have the Fueling oil pump less a half quart of oil to run w/o loosing my dipstick. |
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