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Apr 1st, 2007, 03:31 AM
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#1 | | 200+ posts and climbing
Join Date: May 2006 Location: Galveston, Texas
Posts: 332 Interests: ridin my harley Occupation: constuction
| so i have beeen wanting to change my transmission pulley,
i been reading and re-reading my dam service manual,even took it into the bathroom for quiet time reading.........
no matter how many times i read it, i just dont get it........
was wondering if they make a HD manual for dummies???
one with lots more pics........
looks like i am gonna have to pay the 200$ from the local stealer, to have it put in...............
wich chaps my ass, knowing i cant understand or comprehend what i want to do.................
TRG |
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Apr 1st, 2007, 08:38 AM
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#2 | | Moderator Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,266
| i have changed a number of trans sprockets...it wasnt that hard....but i dont have your manual or bike to see what it would entail.....i will check around to see what makes it so difficult...... |
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Apr 1st, 2007, 08:45 AM
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#3 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,054 Interests: Anything outdoors (climbing, backpacking, fishing, Mtn biking, riding) Occupation: Chemistry teacher
| TRG... I'm an ex-mechanic, now gone Chemistry teacher. I haven't been able to get up enough money to purchase a manual yet, but I do have a friend or two who help out when I'm in a bind with something I just ain't sure of. Don't you have a buddy or two that have some experience on that particular topic/bike??? My one bud graduated from MMI in Florida, so he is up to date on some of the most recent beta. Hope this helps...  |
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Apr 1st, 2007, 03:27 PM
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#4 | | Administrator Frequent Posting Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,237 Model: Harley FLHX Occupation: Web Developer by day, 25+ years of carb building by day, hey what happened to my day?!
| One thing that may help is to take it step by step, then at the point where you say "huh???" post that portion here and we can walk you through to the next step.
I'm also going to copy this thread over to the Tech Talk section. There may be a good chance that someone browsing through there would know exactly how to help. |
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Apr 1st, 2007, 06:19 PM
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#5 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Stanton, NJ
Posts: 1,287 Model: 04 Dyna WG (with a 240 rear tire) Interests: Harleys, drag racing, family, fishing, my rottweilers, the UFC Occupation: Carpenter/Builder
| Come on TRG, if I can change my pulley to a sprocket, you sure can. The only problems you might have would be getting the specialty sockets. You will have to remove the primary chain, which isn't so hard but you will need to get a large socket to remove the compensating sprocket. I wedged a piece of maple in the chain so that I could loosen the nut, but other than that it's not really a big deal. If I can be of some help, let me know. I am not a really knowledgeable wrench, but I can at least follow a manual....  |
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Apr 2nd, 2007, 08:28 AM
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#6 | | Administrator Frequent Posting Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,237 Model: Harley FLHX Occupation: Web Developer by day, 25+ years of carb building by day, hey what happened to my day?!
| I'm going to move this thread over to the Tech area where I'm sure you'll get plenty of help. Curious to hear what size pulley you decided on. |
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Apr 2nd, 2007, 08:50 AM
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#7 | | Moderator Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,266
| ok....i have a stack of manuals and i had 2 on your bike, genuine hd and clymers....i dont see a big problem doing what ya want to do....ya want to do it???
chuck |
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Apr 3rd, 2007, 12:10 PM
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#8 | | More than 100 posts!
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 124 Model: '04 FXDL Interests: drag racing, muscle cars, street rods, annoying others
| No one has mentioned yet but take note that the threads are reverse on the nut you need to remove to take off clutch assembly and get to the pulley. They will also have the torque specs for putting it back together. Sometimes it will make more sense doing it as you go and seeing it, then trying to walk thru it with the book. |
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Apr 3rd, 2007, 01:07 PM
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#9 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,915
| First question is why, is there something wrong with the pulley? If you just want to change final drive ratio you can do that in the primary by changing the comp sprocket and clutch basket outer shell.
If you want to change that sprocket you have to pull the whole primary
Floorboard and rear mount need to be dropped
shift lever removed
Drain Primary
Remove outer primary cover
Remove comp nut (Use a breaker bar and you'll need a locking tool from Jims to lock the sprockets)
Loosen and remove adjuster
remove clutch plate cover
loosen center adju nut back off and remove C clip, slide out
Remove nut, reverse thread
Pull off comp nut and clutch basket as one assembly
Remove bolts and locking tabs for rear primary
bent starter jackshaft locking tab back
remove bolt, hold large gear with plyers to keep from rotating
Slide out jackshaft, spring, gears etc keep in order so you can put it back together correctly.
Remove starter bolts (back them off completely but you don't have to remove starter)
Remove primary cover
Now you can get to the trans pulley, you'll need a puller to get it off as well and maybe a locking tool
To reassemble be sure to get outside primary cover gasket, new locking tabs for inner primary bolts, new inner primary to motor o ring, fluids, reassemble the whole thing in reverse.
Done this so many times its not funny on a buds 113 LOL chasing leaks and all ,we got it down pat.
I use an electric battery drill to remove the allen bolts around the primary, no reason to sit there for an 1/2 hour unbolting the darn thing.
Clean the bolts up good, Loctite blue for the outer cover, many use antisieze on the inner primary bolts.
Torque to spec.
Oh and while you're at it get a new seal for the starter shaft and the trans mainshaft no reason not to replace them unless you like leaks.
If you have a HiPo motor remove the main bearing in the inner primary and seal, as well as the race on the trans shaft and replace the bearing with Zippers High Per bearing kit, it eliminates the race from walking on the main shaft and penetrating the seals. |
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