[ringo912]

Thinking about changing to gear driven cams this fall, going to do it myself. Would like some info back from anyone that has changed from chain drive cams to gear driven cams in a TC88. Any info regarding noise, performance, etc., would be appreciated. Other than checking for proper gear lash, is there anything else I need to watch for?

[ReeseSS]

Check your crank run out per the manual before installing the gear drive. You will have some noise, more when cold then after they warm up and expand. Gear drive will have some, but minimal difference regarding performance, most of that will depend on what cams you go with and the rest of your combination.

[ringo912]

I've read that going to gears gives about a 4hp gain. Not going to do anything with the heads. Was planning on going with a 37G cam.

[SkyKing]

I put the 37G cam in my wife's 2000 Heritage. I was told they would be noisier than the chain drives. Well, to me it's either quiter, or its just a much more pleasing noise. Run's great.

[ringo912]

So Skyking...did ya notice any difference in performance with the gears an the 37G?

[ReeseSS]

The "up to" maybe 4hp gain from gears (including the fact you are replacing the rear cam roller bearing with a ball bearing = less resistance) you will not notice, but the 37G cam, you will definitely notice!

[ringo912]

I read that material has to be removed from inside the cam cover to allow clearance for the cam drive gear. What's the best way to go about this? Air grinder, dremmel?

[ReeseSS]

S&S recommends that the clearance be checked for at least .03 because the gear drive is a little bigger then the original but in must cases you will have enough to not have to do anything. If you do, I use a black marker first on the area I will be grinding and just take off the black with a dremel and repeat if needed until just enough is removed. Go easy so you don't take off too much!

[ringo912]

There's a guy on ebay offering the Andrews S&S gear set complete with all the gears, bearings, instalation kit, and any cam you want for $530.00. Sounds like a good deal!

[Cracker]

I did my 05 about two years ago. My pinion shaft runout was max .002. I have some gear noise that grows with the oil temp. Tried to reduce the noise with different pinion gear sizes from andrews no change in noise...for the most part.

If I were going to do it again...(and may still change mine if the noise gets to me...) I would do the roller chain conversion, see Andrews site for parts list. One issue you can only get conversion cams from Andrews so the choices are limited. The price is about the same as going gear drive so no big difference there. On the plus side you get a new oil pump, new cam plate, new roller chains like the 06 dynas & all 07 HD's, the old chain spring tensioners are replaced by hydraulic tensioners and IMO the best of all is more tollerence to the sh*t crank runout specs that HD is pushing off the asembly line...

JMHO,
Cracker

[junkpockets]

I had my 05 ultra gear cam set up done at 7000 miles and also ported the heads. I do a lot of two up ridin, in the mtn. of north Ga. The bike Dyno readout is 77HP and 87Torque, am very pleased. The cam power range is 1800 thru 3800 just right for the up and downs.

[Clem]

Your '02 would benefit by upgrading to a later model oil pump or a Feuling pump. Other than having the ability to manipulate the fuel delivery, you should have no trouble with the gear set-up installation. It is a do-it-yourselfer job - not as much trouble as you would think. You can 'bump' the old bearings/cams out of the support plate very easily with a dead blow, bumping one then the other but use the heat method to reinstall them.

This build used the S&S 570G set-up and there was absolutely no need to grind anything out of the timing cover or cavity. The benefit of geardrive over the chain is that you can forget maintaining any sort of tensioning devices and their eminent failure. Both type tensioners still retain a plastic slipper on the chain to continually wear as it does its job. Gears will give you a reassuring slight whinning noise as all Harley engines did in the past - which led us to the TC88/95/96/103 etc,etc....and the original design of the TC had gears that was shot down for the whine.

Besides, a little whine never hurt anyone...

Go for it, you'll do fine....

Bill C.

[ringo912]

Thanks for all the info, doesn't look to complicated. Probably do the wrenching myself.

[charlieharley0057]

Hi
If you have not yet done so, have a look at the thread CAM CHAIN TENSIONERS on this the page there are a couple of links there that may be of help some good pics and tips As for grinding out I installed 510G S&S and had no great problems (Not a wrench) just take your time, think things through and if possible take pictures and make notes as you strip down these will help on the rebuild.

[HarleysLR]

I have an 05 fatboy with 23,000 miles changed cams at 19,000 miles to the S&S 510G, what a difference, We live in Colorado and at altitude they really make a difference, there is a bit of a different kind of whining noise but after a few miles you don't even notice it. I installed and then 2 days later went on a 2,600 mile ride. If I were to get another bike I would install right away, well worth the money. Cursing at 70 hit the throttle and you are at 90.

[fxdxsteve]

I have 47000 on my geardrive setup I have always heard a tiny whine in mine none of my friends hear it they say I'm crazy probably right I'm on my second set of cams with it.I had the branch grind andrews cams at first but wanted a little more bottom end so I got the crane .619 lift cams .060 more lift about the same duration big difference mileage actually got better after I quit gooseing the throttle in first all the time I had to pin my apes to the risers so they wouldn't pull back all the time

[ringo912]

Originally Posted by fxdxsteve

I have 47000 on my geardrive setup I have always heard a tiny whine in mine none of my friends hear it they say I'm crazy probably right I'm on my second set of cams with it.I had the branch grind andrews cams at first but wanted a little more bottom end so I got the crane .619 lift cams .060 more lift about the same duration big difference mileage actually got better after I quit gooseing the throttle in first all the time I had to pin my apes to the risers so they wouldn't pull back all the time

I have an 02' Heritage Classic with SE breather kit and V&H ture duals. I don't want do any head work and I'm looking for a bolt-in cam. I'm not a cam expert, was condsidering the Andrews 26G or the 37G when I change over to the gears. Any comments on this? I'm just looking for more low end and mid range torque for two up riding.

[HarleysLR]

S&S 510G is a great cam, Really made a difference in low end and midrange on my fatboy. Probably about the same price as an andrews cam. I get a steady 50+ mph to. We live at 6,000 ft and ride in high altitude alot and it really makes a difference when passing on 2 lane roads. I'd always used andrews before in my Evo's but i took the advise of a friend and really like these S&S cams. Which ever you chose gear driven is the way to go. Yes there is a little whin at low speed but you soon get used to it. I run a modified CV Carb, V&H Big Shots Staggered, K&N air filter and Sreaming Eagle Ignition.
It an't want you got it's how you ride it.

[fxdxsteve]

if I were to choose between the two I'd go with the 26g and I would also consider an adjustable ignition system if carbed or a pc if injected. I started out with the ignition before anything and gained as much seat of the pants
power as when I did the pipes and ac kit also they give the versatility if and when you decide to bump it up to 95 inches imothe 88 inch motor was made to be 95 inches for me it was a natural progression ac kit and pipes then ignition then I went with headwork I bought the whole branch package heads cams pushrods I changed to the screaming eagle adjustable pushrods also go with crane or compcams lifters instead of hd or se I had a se lifter fail and it wiped out my front cam but I ramble if you're just changeing cams cut your pushrods in half with boltecutters you'also need the se pushrod tube kit that way you won't have to pull the heads when I went to 95 inches I got a pair of heads at a swap meet had them bored and ten swaped out pistons and barrels igot the barrels for $40 and hannans machine bored them WITH TORQUE PLATES for $180 with gaskets and everything it cost me about $500 hope this helped

steve

[ringo912]

Originally Posted by fxdxsteve

if I were to choose between the two I'd go with the 26g and I would also consider an adjustable ignition system if carbed or a pc if injected. I started out with the ignition before anything and gained as much seat of the pants
power as when I did the pipes and ac kit also they give the versatility if and when you decide to bump it up to 95 inches imothe 88 inch motor was made to be 95 inches for me it was a natural progression ac kit and pipes then ignition then I went with headwork I bought the whole branch package heads cams pushrods I changed to the screaming eagle adjustable pushrods also go with crane or compcams lifters instead of hd or se I had a se lifter fail and it wiped out my front cam but I ramble if you're just changeing cams cut your pushrods in half with boltecutters you'also need the se pushrod tube kit that way you won't have to pull the heads when I went to 95 inches I got a pair of heads at a swap meet had them bored and ten swaped out pistons and barrels igot the barrels for $40 and hannans machine bored them WITH TORQUE PLATES for $180 with gaskets and everything it cost me about $500 hope this helped

steve

I have a carb. Never heard of an adjustable ignition system. Where can I find out more about them?