[drillsarge]

My FX has the original Kehein carb,30 yrs old, am putting a Bendix on this evening or tomorrow. Any advice on tuning is greatly appreciated. Will let yall know how she runs after i install it.Plus, this will be my biggest wrench project so far, might take me a minute

[drillsarge]

wrong thread found some advice in a thread that was already started my bad

[RATAYLOR]

I HAD TROUBLE WITH THE CARB ON MY 78-1/2 FXE(SWITCH TO ELECTRONIC IGNITION MID YEAR). I THOUGHT IT WAS THE STOCK PRESTOLITE IGN. GETTING TIRED(FOULING PLUGS) AND STARTED SHOPPING FOR AFTERMARKET IGN.. AS IT TURNED OUT, WHILE I HAD THE CARB OFF TO REPLACE THE ACC. PUMP DIAPHRAM, NOTICED THE RUBBER PLUG(HELD IN BY THE FLOAT BOWL) FOR THE LOW SPEED JET WAS CRACKED AND LOOSE IN THE HOLE. MADE ONE FROM BRASS, PUT A SLIGHT PRESS FIT ON IT AND NO MORE PROBLEMS. I GUESS THE MAIN JET HAS TO METER WHAT GOES TO THE SLOW SPEED JET.

[drillsarge]

Thanx Cuz, I did keep the keihin, but went ahead with the Bendix and aftr adjustments it runs smooth as silk. This scoot will cause me to either be a good wrench or get big headaches. I am slowly earing and getting a little shop together at my house and am considerin' a Mechanics course. Do you recommend any. I checked one online called PennFoster out of Pa.Anyways, thanx again.

[voodoochild]

Hey Drillsarge, forget the course. I think hands on and asking questions is the best way to learn. As long as you have a manual, and us.......you should be good. I buy tools as I need them, for whatever I'm doing on my bike. You're already doing great, look at the stuff you've done so far.

[cowboy]

voodoochild is right read the book & here as well just ask away & someone will answer , & beside's it free this way & you'll have more to spend on your bike

[drillsarge]

That settles that, no one here in Paris, KY that i am aware of works on any kind of bike gotta go to lexington or elswhere. Saw some posts and comments about bolts thru pipes, will the carb need to be retuned after this is done cause i'm guessin' the pipes should be removed for the drilling so that the holes have the same placement.

[cowboy]

Sarge when you do the carb , be sure to keep A eye on the intake gasket's when putting it back together sometimes the lip will turn in & cause a leak & the bike will not run right , suck's to much air in , Then just tighten it up
On the pipes are you changing or installing baffles if so try to make the holes about the same in each pipe , this make both cylders more balcenced to each other

[RATAYLOR]

I think most agree that the FACTORY manual should be purchased the day you ride off with you bike. Got mine in "the reading room" . Use it along with a little common sense and help from the forums and you'll be just fine.
The old shovel takes a bit more attention but keeps me on my toes to keep it shaking, rattling, and rolling.

[drillsarge]

Cowboy, I have straight drags. Am not planning on changing the pipes or adding baffles. Might put some new wrap on 'em though. If the1/4" bolts will improve performance then that is the way I will go. My start button went bad so I am putting a heavy duty start button on the left side and bypassing the handle-bar button. Will let you know how it works.

[fxdxsteve]

heres a good link for drag pipes

Exhaust Systems

[whacker]

Hey thanks for the link...fxdxsteve....

[fxdxsteve]

lots of good info on that site

[drillsarge]

Solid Cuz great ink thanx fer the info

[cowboy]

Sarge I had to do the same thing on my 73 Shovel Just see if you can find a water proof button , or put it where it won't stay wet or it will short out , I also used some shrink on the wire's

[fxdxsteve]

I made a manual push button on my solenoid but you can buy them on ebay I'm too cheap so I made the plunger on my lathe in my garage and drilled a hole in the endplate on my mill got a rubber grommet at the hardware store on my dyna the hotwire for the killswitch and the starter button are the same so the juice was being drawn away from the ignition and made it start hard when cold bypassed the starter button and put in the manual starter no more starter problems

[drillsarge]

Got one at the local shop (American Legends) in Lexington for $11. Got a bracket and an inline fuse for the pos cable from the best Audio installers in this area( Car Stereo Warehouse) ,cheap plug I know, for free and that good friends is my favorite price. I wrapped the wires and would a lite coat of silicone or graphite protect the switch from moisture. I may go with some kind of housing when I get into it this winter but those ideas are for a thread when winter projects come up.

[hotroadking]

Drill sarge

GO BIG BLUE!

UF Sucks and I have to live around a buncha gators, christ BillyG better whup up on them they are getting about as big headed about basketball as they are about football!

Anyway back to bikes, FWIW if you can get your hands on a late model CV carb and there is a spacer/adapter plate I'd go that route, better performance, mileage and starting. You can pick one up at a dealer or local shop maybe a takeoff or on ebay, post on HTT for one. Tons are laying around.

Also, you need to either put the baffles back in or run the bolts, you don't need to drill holes through you should have one hole in each drag muffler, most run a thumb screw with a hole drilled in the center or one of the hoop type short screws with the loop on one end.

Nut it on the threads so that it's in the center of the pipe, and then put it through the hole and nut it down on the outside, loctite is your friend

This will give you back the correct exhaust pulses you need to keep the low end power up, believe it or not no baffles equals lost bottom end power from 2000 to 4000, right where you ride.

[drillsarge]

Originally Posted by hotroadking

Drill sarge

GO BIG BLUE!

UF Sucks and I have to live around a buncha gators, christ BillyG better whup up on them they are getting about as big headed about basketball as they are about football!

Anyway back to bikes, FWIW if you can get your hands on a late model CV carb and there is a spacer/adapter plate I'd go that route, better performance, mileage and starting. You can pick one up at a dealer or local shop maybe a takeoff or on ebay, post on HTT for one. Tons are laying around.

Also, you need to either put the baffles back in or run the bolts, you don't need to drill holes through you should have one hole in each drag muffler, most run a thumb screw with a hole drilled in the center or one of the hoop type short screws with the loop on one end.

Nut it on the threads so that it's in the center of the pipe, and then put it through the hole and nut it down on the outside, loctite is your friend

This will give you back the correct exhaust pulses you need to keep the low end power up, believe it or not no baffles equals lost bottom end power from 2000 to 4000, right where you ride.

Yes they do every time I check the math 7 is still more than 2 and everything they have done won't be worth jack if we beat em in football and Billy G will git 'er done Big Orange will get peeled too.