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2000 Wide Glide Lean reading on spark plugs


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Old Jul 16th, 2007, 03:21 PM   #1
wide_glide2000
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Hello all,

New here, first post..

I recently took ownership of a 2000 Wide Glide, and upon changing the spark plugs, I noticed the electrodes are showing that it is running lean. I'm basing this assumption on what I have researched on the web, being that my plugs are showing to be light grey, to white, as opposed to the tan to light grey readings of a normal condition. Again, based on research on the web, and the newly aquired service manual.
The bike is running strong otherwise, but I don't want to continue running it if I am in an overheating condition. The top of the front rocker box cover has some discoloration and cracking of the chrome plating on it.
The bike has 30,000 miles, stock exhaust, and it does appear the previous owner has made adjustment to the mixture settings on the carb. Evident by the fact the plug has been removed to access the adjustment screw.
Any suggestions as how to correct this, or am I being over cautious and should just ride it?
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Old Jul 16th, 2007, 04:55 PM   #2
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I would definitely wait for someone else to jump in on this. You sure don't want to be running it lean for a long period of time, as this will produce alot of excess heat in your motor. I am not sure if it is a re-jetting issue or an adjustment issue. I am not a carb guy, I always screw them up. Your bike, your call. Good luck with it.

Ps. Welcome aboard
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Old Jul 16th, 2007, 05:16 PM   #3
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What brand carb do you have?Ken's really good with carbs...I'm sure he'll be of help.
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Old Jul 16th, 2007, 06:56 PM   #4
wide_glide2000
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Thanks guys....

As far as I can tell, the carb is stock, 40 CV?
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Old Jul 16th, 2007, 07:39 PM   #5
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ken is the guru on cv's.......but he is getting married and may not get to this post for a bit. the new bride will have him busy!!!
check the mixture screw. use a screwdriver that is marked so you can count the turns. turn the screw clockwise to lightly seat it. back it out 2 1/2 turns. this should get you close to where it needs to be. run the bike then check the plugs again. the reading you give on your plugs are just slightly on the lean side....check this site for your condition......
Spark Plugs

you will only be able to slightly adjust this screw for lean/rich. it may take a jet change.....have fun and keep us informed
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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 03:26 PM   #6
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Hey thanks for the spark plug chart Chuck....Find it very useful.......
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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 08:27 PM   #7
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I might just have a few more posts left in me before I head off to tie the knot

CV carbs are more often lean in the area of the idle circuit than with the main jet, so definitely start with the mixture screw. If you can't turn it outward more than 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn then you'll need to up the idle jet by one size. Also make sure the previous owner had installed the correct temp spark plugs, which could also lead to a lean-looking plug.

In case you missed the link elsewhere, here's the run down on mixture adjustments.
Harley Davidson Carburetor Performance Tuning
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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 08:34 PM   #8
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ken put two link's in this section for me on the cv carb's under sporty carb , lot's of good info there there for all the cv carb's ,
As for the chrome coming apart on a 00 model I have seen a few 99-01 doing the same thing here in TX
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Old Jul 18th, 2007, 08:01 AM   #9
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Don't forget, you cannot use old plug charts for unleaded fuel. The lead is what gave us that nice light tan.
Also, reading the electrode itself is not reliable because you get so much combustion splatter on it. I learned to read plugs in High School (68-69) by listening snd watching Johnny Loper from Lopers speed shop in Phoenix. He used a jewelers magnifier and always read the insulation all the way to the base. I tend to read the portion of the insulator exposed to the flame front as I have found it to be pretty reliable.

When asked about the charts I always recommend going one picture "leaner" on the chart.

Remember you cannot tune on old plugs...just won't work. If you are tuning, get some cheap plugs from your local parts store, Checkers, Pep Boys etc. EVO's use RN12YC, EVO XL / TC88 RA8HC. I dunno if they changed plugs after he '06 year...'cause I don't bother digging into it anymore...

A tuning like the plug chop method is recommended.

http://bike-talk.com/forum/faqs/new_...#faq_plug_chop

I use to shoot for an off white color. Basically where your could see the flame front pattern on the insulator.

A friend that works at Braswell carbs (NHRA, NASCAR, IHRA) that told me that the big boys like Roush, Yates etc actually read the base of the insulator.
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Old Jul 18th, 2007, 07:32 PM   #10
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yup, what cd said!!!
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Old Jul 19th, 2007, 07:11 PM   #11
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if the bike isn't hesitating I wouldn't be concerned about it but it also depends on climate, humidity or temperature that will make the power/jetting change drastically, but white to light grey should be good if it's hesitating you might want to consider jetting yourself or a jet kit cause with the jet kits those companies have already done the homework and studying for you(provided there has been no real major engine enhancements done), but usually they will tell you every setting... if you have exhaust or a k&n filter...they're pretty easy to follow, if you wanna learn about jetting I recommend any yamaha manual they have very good explinations of how jetting works... and I know it's a harley you're working on... however an engines, an engines, an engine. Mechanical theory doesn't change because of what brand of bike you're wrenching on.

Last edited by FoShoRacing978 : Jul 19th, 2007 at 07:16 PM.
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Old Jul 19th, 2007, 07:39 PM   #12
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Yup, what Chuck said!!!
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 11:03 AM   #13
wide_glide2000
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Back again...and thanks again for all the help and suggestions from everyone.

I did go out and get some new plugs, and seated then backed the mixture screw out 2 1/2 turns, and rode around for a while, varying throttle ranges. The plugs are RA8HC. (The plugs I am running now are the H-D recommended ones per the service manual)
As far as the discoloration on the rocker box cover, after looking at it, the spot in questions is directly under the cross over nipple under the right side of the tank. Could have once had a gas leak? But the photo shows the crackling of the chrome on top of the cover more directly under the tank. Oh, I did install a 2" tank lift on the front of the tank (I like the look better), and replaced the cross over to accommodate the lift. But the stain under the nipple was already there before I did that.

So far, no hesitations or sputtering from stop to cruising speed, and in between.

Now I'll try to upload some images, hopefully I do it right!

Thanks again....
Rod
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Old Jul 20th, 2007, 06:21 PM   #14
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thanks for the pics. those bubbles are not from overheating, or gas related. the chrome is lifting from the alum. due to poor prep. i have seen that alot. it will also show up on older alum pieces that have been chromed. alum. is harder to chrome than steel, and doesnt last as long normally. polished alum. will look better longer, but is a bitch to take care of. your bubbling is nothing to worry about, unless ya want a pristene chrome. only way to cure it is to send it out to a chrome shop. a few years down the road it will happen again....the nature of alumimum/chrome......
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