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Jul 17th, 2007, 03:53 PM
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#1 | | Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Ca.
Posts: 7 Model: 78' FLH Occupation: RE
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About a month ago I up shifted and the bike went into nuetral and stayed there. then the clutch froze up. i forced it and felt a pop. i pulled the side cover off and found that the throw out bearing and release fingers had shattered. I was told that this was due to an poorly adjusted clutch, and this was the only problem. I replaced all parts and adjusted the clutch. It worked for half a mile and went into nuetral and the cluthc froze up again. I did not force it this time, not wantig to buy those parts again. what could be causing this, and how do I fix it?
It is a 78' FLH Police Special with a stock 4 speed electric start transmission
Last edited by Av8erJB : Jul 17th, 2007 at 05:40 PM.
Reason: Additional information
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Jul 17th, 2007, 05:52 PM
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#2 | | Moderator Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,073
| did you pull the plates and clutch basket to check them?? also did you check the transmission shaft?? if these look ok, i would pull the ratchet cover and inspect the shift drum and cogs.....i am not sure it is going into an actual neutral, i think maybe it is falling into a "false" neutral..........let usknow... | |
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Jul 17th, 2007, 07:55 PM
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#3 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Alvin TX
Posts: 1,455 Model: 03 E Glide X cop bike Interests: My family Old Dodge truck's Riding My Glide Occupation: Retired truck Driver
| the shift cog's are kinda the weak part of those 4spd trannys, i know the one for second gear is  | |
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Jul 19th, 2007, 12:52 PM
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#4 | | Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Ca.
Posts: 7 Model: 78' FLH Occupation: RE
| I took off the cover and felt around, and all looked good. when i put averything back togeather it was freed up, and seems to be working ok, although I didn't ride it (it was too late). Is there something with my clutch, or cable adjustment that is causing something to bind up and prevent me from depressing the cluch, and letting the transmission engage? | |
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Jul 19th, 2007, 01:03 PM
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#5 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,804
| Similar on my 00 5 speed, I popped the rear off the bearing support trap door behind the main shaft bearing the clutch worked a bit then nothing, stuck in gear not N, Had to replace the trap door on the trans with a new billet one from Jims.
Make sure the main shaft isn't walking when you pull in the clutch, pull off the cover and watch the clutch basket to see if the whole basket moves vs just the plates, or the other side and watch the main shaft see if it move in.
Last edited by hotroadking : Jul 19th, 2007 at 01:14 PM.
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Jul 19th, 2007, 01:18 PM
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#6 | | Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Ca.
Posts: 7 Model: 78' FLH Occupation: RE
| When I move the plates everything moves, including the tire | |
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Jul 19th, 2007, 01:28 PM
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#7 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,804
| I mean when you pull in the clutch, does the clutch basket move laterally, not just the plates.
Not talking about rotationally but laterally side to side.
See a main shaft from the trans should not "walk" or move side to side, if it does then the clutch can't properly engage the gears as everything moves out of position, when you pull in the lever you're pulling all the main gears to one side of the trans.
I just rebuilt mine with this problem, it might not be yours but the trans is really pretty simple once you get into it.
Make sure you have a SM that shows the gear layout, drum position, bolts, tq etc, If you have to pull it apart makes it easler to get back together and you can change out the bearings, clips etc which will improve it's operations anyway.
Either that or get a 5 into 4 kit so you have a 5 speed! | |
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Jul 19th, 2007, 03:54 PM
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#8 | | Moderator Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,073
| something else to check....if your bike has it. there is an arm on top of the trans that the clutch cable goes into?? is all this free?? it is under the oiltank, just above and forward of the starter....it has a bushing that allows the shaft to move about if worn. | |
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Jul 20th, 2007, 09:52 AM
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#9 | | Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Ca.
Posts: 7 Model: 78' FLH Occupation: RE
| Yes the cable is attached to an arm on top of the transmission. This is attached to a shaft into the kicker cover, which is attached to the fingers that push on the throw out bearing. It seems to me that the fingers and the throw out bearing are what is binding up, although not sure.
P.S.
I like the moving boobies better
Last edited by Av8erJB : Jul 20th, 2007 at 09:58 AM.
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Jul 20th, 2007, 06:35 PM
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#10 | | Moderator Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,073
| ok...check for wear on the fingers, and the "washer" they ride on. also pull the clutch adj screw out...pull the clutch rod out and check for binding...maybe the shaft is bent. check the brg. for wear. check for wear by moving the arm that the cable is attached to. it should be pretty free with all the above removed, or loose. check for side play and up and down play....should be slight. the clutch rod should slip very easly in and out of the main shaft. should show minimal wear on the length. check the end of the clutch adj. screw..should be smooth, not mushroomed....let us know what ya find.....good luck. | |
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Jul 20th, 2007, 06:46 PM
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#11 | | Moderator Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,073
| i just reread your original post.....those item i suggested to check are new....oops....have you pulled all the plates out, checking them for warping?? lay them on a flat surface, also the hub that the plates sit on can get bent a bit,,,the hub has the fingers on it for the plates to slide on. the older 3 finger jobs would do that. the newer 5 finger ones are better. also check the holes where the fingers slide on the hub for wear. they should be round not egg shaped. the fingers should be smooth. the smooth discs have tabs that slide in slots in the outer drum...these slots need to be clean and smooth also. let us know!!! good luck
boobies will return shortly  | |
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