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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 04:41 PM   #1
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Compensater Sprocket

Hi all it has been a long time since last post. This place really rocks i still read post now and then. I have a custom i built. 1989 to 91 parts. I pulled the primary to look for a noise every thing checks out but the compensating sprocket is slaping back and forth. Making a lot of noise. the spring is all most non exsistant could this be worn out or broken. If so can cover assembly be bought separtely. The bike is a FXST . Thanks for your help
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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 05:47 PM   #2
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yes to all your questions....is there a lot of metal in the primary???? if you are needing one i may have a line on one....saw it a while back. how is the chain and shoe??? also, how is the crankshaft?? did it get the inner primary?? let us know how ya make out and what ya find..
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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 07:57 PM   #3
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chucktx reply

chucktx thanks for the reply every thing looks great the cover assembly with spring should fix it. bike has 30;000 on it. show chain and all looks good thanks for info.
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Old Sep 11th, 2007, 10:32 AM   #4
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Compensator Spring

Does this spring wear out often????

My dad brought his 99 low rider into the shop at 25K and they said he needed a spring replaced, but he couldn't remeber what one.

Thanks
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Old Sep 11th, 2007, 01:26 PM   #5
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the comp sprocket spring is pretty tough and doesnt normally wear out untill a lot of milage is aquired. there are a lot of springs in there,,,,,maybe call the folks back to see whichone needs replacing....you may be able to do it your self!!
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We plan to meet next week to talk about planning a strategy session to discuss the next step towards forming a consensus to start the development of the rough draft for the implementation of our intention to develop a plan.
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Old Sep 11th, 2007, 04:02 PM   #6
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ever since I hopped up the motor in my 02 dyna I've had trouble keeping the sprocket nut from coming loose I'm to the point of using blue locktite or tacking the nut any one else have this problem?
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Old Sep 11th, 2007, 06:32 PM   #7
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no problem with what i am runnng now, but i did have a shovel that required the locktite treatment!!
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We plan to meet next week to talk about planning a strategy session to discuss the next step towards forming a consensus to start the development of the rough draft for the implementation of our intention to develop a plan.
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Old Sep 11th, 2007, 07:01 PM   #8
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Hey fxdxSteve, have you considered the red locktite? I thought that was a stronger bond than the blue. Sorry if I'm insulting your intelligence, I'm sure you already thought of that, but it was just a thought.
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Old Sep 11th, 2007, 07:05 PM   #9
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The compensator nut is supposed to be red loctited and torqued to 160-180 ftlbs depending on which model you have . The torque spec is in the service manual. The compensator itself might be rocking because the nut is not properly torqued. Make sure you clean off the threads on the crankshaft so you can get a true torque setting. Also, if the compensator has been loose for a while, check the rotor assembly and crank assy splines to make sure these did not get rounded out while the nut was loose. If the teeth on the rotor are rounded or almost completely worn out you may need to replace the rotor.
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Old Sep 11th, 2007, 11:04 PM   #10
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I've been using the red using a 20 inch breaker bar and standing on it I weigh well over 200 I believe the blue is the stuff you have to heat to 450 degrees to break it loose after tightening this is the second nut the red doesn't hold. all the parts of the comp.still look like new but the inside of the primary cover shows grind marks where the nut rubs just went to the locktite website looks like red is best I'll have to come up with a new idea

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Old Sep 12th, 2007, 12:17 AM   #11
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I believe the blue is the stuff you have to heat to 450 degrees to break it loose after tightening this is the second nut the red doesn't hold.
I know it isn't the blue...I have more tubes of blue locktight around the garage then I care to think about. only needs a wrench or screwdriver to break. Red is the middle version. The BLACK locktight is the stuff I have seen that is high heat and almost like superglue....I would be careful on using the black....once on, not much will take it appart!
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Old Sep 12th, 2007, 03:10 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by fxdxsteve View Post
I've been using the red using a 20 inch breaker bar and standing on it I weigh well over 200 I believe the blue is the stuff you have to heat to 450 degrees to break it loose after tightening this is the second nut the red doesn't hold. all the parts of the comp.still look like new but the inside of the primary cover shows grind marks where the nut rubs just went to the locktite website looks like red is best I'll have to come up with a new idea
That sucks fxdxsteve! I've done that too where you stand on a breaker bar like that, (not on my bike), and it doesn't always give you the torque you're looking for. Just because of the angle etc of the wrench and your pivot point. (sorry I was always good in geometry and such) I actually did what vybr8er said and did it with a torque wrench. Of course it took ALOT of effort to make that thing click at 160 lbs. Anyway, good luck with that and maybe the black loctite is the key. I did use the red on mine and so far (knock on wood) it's still working.
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 08:26 AM   #13
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It seems I read a service bulletin somewheres as to shiming the nut because on certain models the nut bottoms against the hub and not the sprocket. I could be wrong here, but I just seem to remember reading that somewheres.
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 10:18 AM   #14
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I chucked the nut up in my lathe and took off about .030 it helped but it still works its way loose probably something to do with burnouts and wheelies
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 10:29 AM   #15
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Yuppers, it could but, don't ever let that stop ya. Half the fun of beating on them is rebuilding them. Only problem is they tend to break before a major run or when your flat broke.Hey look at it this way, at least you got decent crank bearings in that 02 and a forged crank instead of the walker flywheels and handy andy bearings with a cast crank as on my 07. LOL
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 12:22 PM   #16
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Red loctite is what you need to use,

1) get loctite cleaner, clean the threads in the nut and on the shaft.
2) check spacing, HD makes a small spacer that goes under the nut head and will allow you to obtain a higher clamping force as well as keep the nut from bottoming out.
3) Use plenty of red, make sure it's new and fresh
4) Use the breaker bar but don't stand on it, push on it with your 200 pounds you need to apply a constant force of 160 to 180 foot pounds.

Make sure all the parts are in good shape too,


BTW on the original question yes you can replace the spring cup it's an assembly and you'd have to bend the sides up where there are three indentations to get to the springs, not worth it JMO just get a new one.
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 12:39 PM   #17
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new red built a stand to sit under socket to steady it cleaned everything welded an arm on breaker bar to get proper leverage got the spacer have tried all given fixes it takes a couple thousand miles to come loose so when I change primary oil I pull the primary cover and tighten it back up but primary gaskets are costly I reuse them 3or 4 times but its a pita its a given that I'm gonna go through the ritual before any trip street vibes coming up in 2 weeks so I want to do something more permanent while I have the cover off
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 01:38 PM   #18
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You have a bit more going on then, I have a 124 putting out close to 150 or more at the crank, the comp nut is a stock twin cam nut.

Any time I've had it come loose it's from me not getting the threads cleaned and red locktited as well as proper TQ, when I asked S&S they said to get it tight then, tighten it some more,

YOu may want to get it even tighter than you have.

If the nut is not new replace it, threads do get tired.

There is a green locktite although it's forever. Put that on and you'll never get it apart, blue is medium locktite and will not hold.

Spacing, threads, cleanliness and torque are the keys. Good luck
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Old Sep 13th, 2007, 03:02 PM   #19
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appreciate the suggestions every bike has its own quirks I guess this one's mine been thinking of some kind of mechanical lock but don't want to throw the balance off gonna change the oil this weekend so Ill pull it apart and decide if tacking the nut to the bell will do the trick if I tig it it won't change the balance
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Old Sep 14th, 2007, 05:14 AM   #20
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Quote:
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appreciate the suggestions every bike has its own quirks I guess this one's mine been thinking of some kind of mechanical lock but don't want to throw the balance off gonna change the oil this weekend so Ill pull it apart and decide if tacking the nut to the bell will do the trick if I tig it it won't change the balance
Haven't look in my manual yet so I might be talking out of my a$$. Is there a way to put a locking tab washer behind the nut? That way after you tihgten it you can bend the tab over one of the flats on the nut. Or is there enough room to add a second nut to be used as a jam nut. Just a thought
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