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Jul 17th, 2007, 09:22 PM
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#1 | | Rookie 10+ posts
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Brooks, Alberta. Canada
Posts: 48 Model: 2008 Road King Classic Interests: Reading, Riding and the New Orleans Saints! Occupation: Oil battery operator
| Hi all
Just bought a new bike recently and was leafing through the owners manual at some of the maintainence information and noticed there were some fastener torque setting in in/lbs. and some in ft/lbs. I imagine that with all the aluminum parts proper torque is fairly important. I do a lot of my own maintainence/repairs on my pickup and once the warranty runs out on the bike will probably start doing the same with it so I guess the question I have is what do you guys use for torque wrenches. As well if there are any Kawasaki owners reading this what is available for a repair manual for one of these bikes.
Thanks in advance for any information
John |
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Jul 17th, 2007, 09:30 PM
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#2 | | Moderator Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,275
| i have a set of inch and ft lb torque wrenches from harbor freight....i checked them with snappys.....right on the money..... |
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Jul 17th, 2007, 09:44 PM
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#3 | | Administrator Frequent Posting Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,240 Model: Harley FLHX Occupation: Web Developer by day, 25+ years of carb building by day, hey what happened to my day?!
| Hi John and welcome. I use an inexpensive set of ft/lbs and in/lbs wrenches that I bought at a discount autoparts store. Unless you plan on wrenching for a living there's no need to drop a lot of cash on a set of snap-on wrenches. I've compared cheap wrenches against the expensive ones and they seemed spot on. Of course the more expensive ones will last a lifetime or be replaced for free, but I don't plan on breaking tools till I'm 90 either.
There are a lot of sources for aftermarket repair manuals including Motorbooks.com and search on Kawasaki or your model.
The dealer should also have a factory service manual which will give every detailed torque setting and spec you would ever want to know... and a few you may not of known of. |
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Jul 17th, 2007, 09:54 PM
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#4 | | Rookie 10+ posts
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Brooks, Alberta. Canada
Posts: 48 Model: 2008 Road King Classic Interests: Reading, Riding and the New Orleans Saints! Occupation: Oil battery operator
| Thanks for the reply Chucktx
I guess I am totally ignorant as to the range of torque settings one would encounter working on a bike. I have a 3/8" drive (0-80 ft/lb) wrench at present but obviously will need more. Could I trouble you for the torque ranges for the wrenches in your set. Might as well get the right tools right off the bat.
Thanks again
John |
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Jul 17th, 2007, 10:00 PM
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#5 | | Rookie 10+ posts
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Brooks, Alberta. Canada
Posts: 48 Model: 2008 Road King Classic Interests: Reading, Riding and the New Orleans Saints! Occupation: Oil battery operator
| Thanks Kenfuzed
You and Chucktx both replied that you have a "set" of wrenches that you use. I guess I have never heard of buying torque wrenches in sets. That term is pretty much meaningless to me. Thanks for the info on the repair manuals I will definately check the sites out!
John |
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Jul 17th, 2007, 10:08 PM
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#6 | | Administrator Frequent Posting Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,240 Model: Harley FLHX Occupation: Web Developer by day, 25+ years of carb building by day, hey what happened to my day?!
| They don't actually come in sets, but it would be nice if they did. But you do need a separate one for ft/lbs and in/lbs.
Forgot to mention one more place that I've had good luck finding deals on shop manuals, theMotorBookStore.com
Much bigger choice of repair manuals. |
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Jul 18th, 2007, 03:53 AM
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#7 | | Very Active Poster 50+
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 81
| Quote:
Originally Posted by jturuk Hi all
Just bought a new bike recently and was leafing through the owners manual at some of the maintainence information and noticed there were some fastener torque setting in in/lbs. and some in ft/lbs. I imagine that with all the aluminum parts proper torque is fairly important. I do a lot of my own maintainence/repairs on my pickup and once the warranty runs out on the bike will probably start doing the same with it so I guess the question I have is what do you guys use for torque wrenches. As well if there are any Kawasaki owners reading this what is available for a repair manual for one of these bikes.
Thanks in advance for any information
John | Very wise of you to check into this! Most people don't bother with torque tools and just rely on 'experience'. Those are the ones that created the market for HeliCoil and Kingsert. Aluminum is unforgiving with an over-torque situation especially with the heat expansion of an air cooled engine. Both an inch pound (to about 200) and a foot pound (to about 150) would be perfectly adequate for anything on a Harley. (You do know that 12 inch lbs equals 1 foot lb. - right? So you can use a good, precision (dial type) foot lb torque wrench for the higher inch lb torques - but most do not read very low) The inch pound one will cost you the most.
I must amend this! Like this: 
Last edited by Clem : Jul 18th, 2007 at 02:00 PM.
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Jul 18th, 2007, 07:01 AM
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#8 | | Moderator Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,275
| Quote:
Originally Posted by jturuk Thanks for the reply Chucktx
I guess I am totally ignorant as to the range of torque settings one would encounter working on a bike. I have a 3/8" drive (0-80 ft/lb) wrench at present but obviously will need more. Could I trouble you for the torque ranges for the wrenches in your set. Might as well get the right tools right off the bat.
Thanks again
John | my inch lb ranges from 0 to 200 inch lbs......my ft lb ranges from 0 to 250 ft lbs....where i purchased, neither one was over 20 bucks each.....my inch lb is 1/4 drive, and i have a 1/4to3/8 adapter for it, and my ft lb is 1/2 drive and i have a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter for it. both wrenches are the "click" style. you set the handle for the torque and pull untill you hear the "click"..hope this helps a bit.... |
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Jul 18th, 2007, 07:46 AM
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#9 | | More than 100 posts!
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 124 Model: '04 FXDL Interests: drag racing, muscle cars, street rods, annoying others
| Another good source for manuals is Repair Manual Catalog Online - RepairManual.com
If you can only get one wrench for now, just convert (12 inch lbs=1 ft lb) |
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Jul 18th, 2007, 11:23 AM
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#10 | | Rookie 10+ posts
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Brooks, Alberta. Canada
Posts: 48 Model: 2008 Road King Classic Interests: Reading, Riding and the New Orleans Saints! Occupation: Oil battery operator
| Thanks alot for this guys!
John |
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Jul 18th, 2007, 02:01 PM
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#11 | | Very Active Poster 50+
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 81
| Quote:
Originally Posted by jturuk Thanks alot for this guys!
John |  |
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Jul 19th, 2007, 05:42 AM
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#12 | | 200+ posts and climbing
Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Mankato, MN
Posts: 381 Interests: Motorcycles, Mountain bikes, guns, Hunting, fishing
| Get your manual and find the common range of torque values you will be needing for your bike.
Then choose your tools knowing that the top most and bottom most 10% are not calibrated for accuracy. In other words the working range of a torque wrench is the median 80%.....So a 0-100 ft/lb wrench has a working range of 10-90 ft/lbs.
If you buy the clicker type, make sure you unload the spring preset after you are done with the job and before putting the tool away. As the spring fatiques, the torque accuracy diminishes. Dial indicating and deflecting beam wrenches are the most accurate over time.
Calibrating these wrenches was my job in the Navy, and I know what I'm talking about. |
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Jul 19th, 2007, 01:41 PM
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#13 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,915
| I got mine at Sears, it's been very good, one thing the sears wrench warranty doesn't apply to torque wrenches.
You can get snap on or mac but unless you do this for a living it really doesn't make sense to dump that kind of cash on the tool
I would also check the Inch pounds requirements, if you have nothing under 12 inch pounds you can convert it to foot pounds.
144 inch pounds is 12 foot pounds. |
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Jul 19th, 2007, 02:10 PM
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#14 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: cheyenne wy
Posts: 781 Model: 06 flhxi Interests: family,fun, fast chrome Occupation: causing hate and discontent
| I have tq wrenches in 1/2 lb incraments 0-650 ft lbs and 0 300 in lbs and I have used the cheap ones and will never use them again. my own opinion, and they are also calibrated yearly clikers are nice and I have them but he most accurate ones and the most reliable ones are the dial type with a light I have snap on , mac , proto. don't shop at sears anymore. if you have a clicker you should have it calibrated every so often as they do get out of calibration from setting around dropping or not backing the tension off it when finished, I won't bet my life on a 30.00 dollar wrench nor would I bet yours. hense you get what you pay for.. |
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Jul 19th, 2007, 03:48 PM
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#15 | | Moderator Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,275
| cant agree with ya more....but, for the weekender, inexspensive should be close enough..... |
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Jul 19th, 2007, 06:57 PM
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#16 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 828 Interests: Bikes, Boobs and Beer Occupation: Biker
| Yup, I believe in torque wrenches, it keeps me from muscle F’n everything. |
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Jul 25th, 2008, 09:02 PM
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#17 | | Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1
| I have been using a craftsman digital torque wrench for some time now, one of the most usefull features is that it works on left and right hand threads. The trans shaft is a reverse thread that needs to be set anywhere from 60-90 ft lbs. |
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Jul 26th, 2008, 06:38 PM
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#18 | | 200+ posts and climbing
Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Nova Scotia,Canada
Posts: 324 Model: '90 FLSTC '03 FLHPI
| I've got a 3/8" drive 0-250in/lb and 1/2" drive 0-250ft/lb. I wouldn't go for bargain basement ones but don't need Mac or Snap-On either. A decent middle road click type should be accurate enuf for doing your own work,just remember to unload them when finished and reclaibrate every so often. |
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