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Twim cam 95"


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Old Jul 26th, 2004, 08:57 PM   #1
Cracker
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I have a 99 Twin Cam just installed a 95 big bore, 10.25/1 forged SE pistons, SE 258 cams and SE HP heads. Since the performance work was done the bike runs very stronge. Question is how or can I get rid of the valve noise? Also seems to be gaining momentum with the front exhaust lifter clatter.
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Old Jul 27th, 2004, 12:10 PM   #2
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High lift valve trains tend to be louder then stock. However, they should never sound like a collapsed or loose lifter. You can use a wooden dowel to help identify which lifter is loudest. If you used adjustable lifters, one or more could be loose and need adjusting. Is the noise a tick or a tap?
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Old Jul 27th, 2004, 07:21 PM   #3
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there are two noises 1st seems to be valve lash kinda of like a light tap, the 2nd sounds like a lifter that may be starting to fail? The sounds are not always consisitent at the same RPM?
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Old Jul 28th, 2004, 12:59 PM   #4
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Useing the dowel or a screwdriver press the tip at the base of the rocker box and the handle to your ear, you will be able to hear the isolated internal noises and determine if valve tap is occuring.

One thing that can happen on a performance build is larger intake valve springs and improper clearance of the rocker box cover or sides which gives a noticeable tapping.

If the pushrods are out of adjustment (or you have a lifter going bad) then the result is usually a louder racket, using the same method on the pushrod tubes will let you hear if one is clacking.

Of course you want the motor running and up to temp.
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Old Jul 29th, 2004, 06:45 PM   #5
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thanks for all your info everone, I took a listen and it does sound like I have a bit more noise coming from the front exhaust lifter. The real question now is do I learn to live with it or ?
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Old Jul 30th, 2004, 09:59 AM   #6
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Cracker if it's not overbearinly bad I'd live with it, you could pull the gas tank and then crack the top of the rocker box off.

See if you have any marks inside the top over the spring, if so take a dremel and clean up a little for clearance, also check around the spring in the lower case without removing it to see if you have room, you should be able to run a feeler gauge around it easily.

If you see marks you can remove the top rocker assembly and machine it out a bit with a dremel to provide more room.

Otherwise, you can check the adjustment on the front pushrod for the exhaust but it's normally the noise maker due to the angle of the engine.

Run synthetic oil if you don't it does quiet down the motor and valve train to some extent. Mobil 1 15W-50 automotive oil full synthetic at wally world is the trick.
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Old Jul 31st, 2004, 10:05 AM   #7
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Thanks again for the tips. I am currently running royal purple synthetic 20w50 along with a quart of lucas oil stabilizer. Tried just syn 1st but ended up draining out a quart to add the lucas, the lucas seems to quite it down more then anything else. The next oil change, I'm planning to buy Ams Oil oil syn now that I found it at Murrys for 6 bucks a quart, but am planning to stick with the the quart of lucas also. My expert mechanic friends tell me I need to just get used to the extra noise...
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Old Aug 1st, 2004, 06:45 PM   #8
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louder pipes work too
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Old Aug 1st, 2004, 11:01 PM   #9
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cracker
Thanks again for the tips. I am currently running royal purple synthetic 20w50 along with a quart of lucas oil stabilizer. Tried just syn 1st but ended up draining out a quart to add the lucas, the lucas seems to quite it down more then anything else. The next oil change, I'm planning to buy Ams Oil oil syn now that I found it at Murrys for 6 bucks a quart, but am planning to stick with the the quart of lucas also. My expert mechanic friends tell me I need to just get used to the extra noise...
Hey Cracker...I'm just wondering what you like about that Lucas Oil stabilizer? I run synthetic and thought about getting the Lucas several times based on the demonstrations I've seen of it clinging to motor parts better than oil alone...but...I'd feel better about the stuff if I knew it was synthetic...The stuff kind of reminds me of STP oil treatment which I'd never use because of the reports I'd heard about it gumming up in valve covers. Whats the scoop?
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Old Aug 2nd, 2004, 01:04 PM   #10
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Heh, I ran STP in an old clunker for a long time. Motor Honey, CD2 etc, etc. We decided to part it out and pulled the pan. guess where all that STP was? Right in the pan all gummed up. I have succesfully run the latest stabilizers in older well worn auto engines and they seem to work well. The problem I see with running a stabilizer in an H-D is that if it does not mix well it could potentially do more harm than good. With the qualities of todays lubes, there is no real need for stabilizers IMHO.

If you have that loud of a valve train and particularly if you have one tappet louder than all the others then you need to have the pushrods adjusted.

A high lift cam with fast ramps will create a considerable amount of valvetrain noise over stock. That's the price of performance. If you think yours is loud come check mine out. TW37G's, gear drive and valve train noise. Oh what music!

Consider taking it another shop or trusted expert for another opinion. If it turns out they believe that it is just normal noise, go ride and get used to it. Solid lifters in a small block chevy at idle yeehaw!
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 07:44 AM   #11
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There is a great oil forum if you're into learning a lot more about petroleum products. www.bobistheoilguy.com. They have a motorcycle forum where a lot of discussion on different lubricants is done and it's good information.

Now for additives see the Lucas Oil Test on this page, pictures and all it's very informative, I wouldn't add any additives to any oil, the manuf. already does this for you.

Its worth a look.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 06:47 PM   #12
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Seahag / CD,
I have been using Lucas for few years. I notice on hot days the lucas helps keep my oil pressure from going below ten pounds at idel. Thanks for the tip about the sludge CD. I do religously change oil every 2000 miles or lees and the Lucas claims it can be used with synthetics.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 09:49 PM   #13
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One thing that I have encountered with this hop up is the added load on the cam chain tensioner can make for some odd sounds and fast wear on the shoe. Dutch
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 10:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotroadking
There is a great oil forum if you're into learning a lot more about petroleum products. www.bobistheoilguy.com. They have a motorcycle forum where a lot of discussion on different lubricants is done and it's good information.

Now for additives see the Lucas Oil Test on this page, pictures and all it's very informative, I wouldn't add any additives to any oil, the manuf. already does this for you.

Its worth a look.
Thanks for that link HRK! My minds made up about the Lucas Oil now! I'll just stick with my Amsoil and Mobil 1
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 08:31 AM   #15
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Again many thanks to all. I'll be headi ng out to the garage now to warm up the bike and change oil...
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 12:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seahag
Thanks for that link HRK! My minds made up about the Lucas Oil now! I'll just stick with my Amsoil and Mobil 1
No problem BTW if you ever want to ask or learn about oils for bikes, cars, planes, anything there are a ton of Oil experts on that site, its a great place to dispell the myths of oil.

God remember the great oil debates ughhh!
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Old Oct 19th, 2005, 09:51 PM   #17
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I Have A 1999 Softtail Custom With 60k. Miles. I Noticed A Lifter Tap And A Wineing Sound Goming From The Cam Cover Or Nose Cone Area I Replaced The Cam Enter Bearing . Do You Think It Could Be The Cam Coverbushing. Thanks.
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Old Oct 24th, 2005, 12:08 PM   #18
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Hot Road King,
Completely changed my opinion about Lucas! I USED to use that stuff religiously! Good oil and NO additives from now on!! Thanks!
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Old Nov 6th, 2005, 01:22 PM   #19
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CRACKER,I have done the 95" BIG BORE & gear drive cam set-up on my DYNA also with the SCREAMIN EAGLE cylinder heads.I found out during assembly that the exhaust valve spring retainers were slightly contacting the lower rocker box inner corner and needed some clearancing(about 2hrs. w/a dremmel).I removed about .050" material on both frt. & rear lower covers.Keep in mind this modification does require removal of the rocker shaft support & upper rocker cover(new gaskets ect.).I would check your push-rod adjustments first,since the cost of O-rings is fairly inexspensive .As the others have recommended;diagnosis with a dowel or long screw driver will isolate the noise,But sooner or latter the tools will have to come out.Hope it works out for you.
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Old Nov 8th, 2005, 10:02 PM   #20
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OO,
Thanks for the reply. I resolved the issue with a new 05FLHTC...
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