[ridehard95]

Originally Posted by skull2007

clean oil is the best oil. the cleaner it is the better it is

You are right .It don't matter what you use for oil as long as you change it. Glad to here some one say the right thing.I don't run syntech but I change my oil every 1200 to 1500 hunder miles no matter what

[fxrsrules]

Hey Bdfin.. Don't quote me I don't need another a## beating or lectuer but, I do sort of remember during my most recent a## beating somthing about the amount of zink and boron in Red Line was better in a V-Twin with Roller bearings. Scence then I called S&S and they do recomend Mobil 1 in there motors. I don't know if there is any real diferance betwine running any different synthetic oil in a Evo or twin cam. Don't take my word for it I'm only here for the ride.

[bdfin]

OK FXR, I won't use any of your verbage to prevent any surprise beatings.
I was just curious as to these mechanic guys and why they think there's so much difference. Are they rebuilding motors all the time from guys that use Amsoil, I doubt it. It says its formulated for V-twins so I poured it in there. I guess it if my ride blows up in a couple more thousand miles I would be tempted to change brands. As mentioned by many above, the main thing is obviously keepin it clean. Sucking out the old leftovers after you drain seems like a good idea, probably lots of stuff in those leftovers. I won't be going the 5000 mile route on the changing though. Maybe 2000, maybe sooner.

[rickster]

ringo912 I read your post & checked out their website. It all sounds & looks easy to use. As a newbie & returning to riding, (& loving it by the way!!!!!!!!!), I'm ready to due MY first oil change on this 06' ultra I got a couple of months ago. What do others on this forum think about this scavenger system, should I get 1, or is there any similar products worth considering ?

[stevenh]

I'm looking into one myself. As it is now I can only get 3 quarts out of my Softail and would be nice to get all the old stuff out.
One thing I noticed is there's 2 different systems out there; one has you disconnect the oil return line at the tank while the other style has a hookup right off the oil filter housing tool. I'm leaning towards the second style.

[ringo912]

Originally Posted by stevenh

I'm looking into one myself. As it is now I can only get 3 quarts out of my Softail and would be nice to get all the old stuff out.
One thing I noticed is there's 2 different systems out there; one has you disconnect the oil return line at the tank while the other style has a hookup right off the oil filter housing tool. I'm leaning towards the second style.

The systems are engine related, One for Twin Cam A, one for Twin Cam B, and one for Evo's. I believe the one that has the hookup off the oil filter is for EVO's. Want to make sure you get the correct one.

[ringo912]

Originally Posted by rickster

ringo912 I read your post & checked out their website. It all sounds & looks easy to use. As a newbie & returning to riding, (& loving it by the way!!!!!!!!!), I'm ready to due MY first oil change on this 06' ultra I got a couple of months ago. What do others on this forum think about this scavenger system, should I get 1, or is there any similar products worth considering ?

There is a system out there called CORS, (Contaminated Oil Removal System) for about $20. However it only flushes the sump cavity of the your engine. But getting some of the dirty oil out is better than now getting any of it out. The Scavenger flushes out you entire engine. Not promoting anyones products here, but I will say this, I have 3K on my synthetic oil right now and the oil is clean enough to see the fill marks on the dip stick through the oil.

[HDManic]

I have a 1200 Sportster 94 and I am running Royal Purple 20/50...it does what it claims..to lower engine temps 25 to 45 degrees..I can run my bike here in 100 degree heat for hrs and my oil never goes over 175 degrees..even on long runs..

Geo

[beachspur]

To get an idea of the difference in synthetic and mineral, take a mason jar and grab a hand full of rocks and put them in the jar. Take another jar and fill it with BB's. Which one would you rather have going through you motor? The average mineral base oil for 4 cycle engines is about 40 microns. The average sythetic oil is about 24 micron. That is alot smallerparticles putting a good film on your engine. The synthetic oil will usually run about 15 to 25 degress cooler, but do not put in synthetic until the engine has some breakin miles....about 500miles or just wait until the first schedueled oil change. The engine purge stated above is a great idea. Getting dirty oil out is just as important as putti clean oil in. Also the average oil filter is about a 25-40 micron filter. Putting in a 10 micron oil filter will reduce the amount of large particles going through the engine. I am a lubrication tech mechanic in the paper industry and I can tell you Royal Purple will reay clean out your engine, but I would change the oil after about 1000 miles after putting it in, simply because it cleans out just that much impregnated particles. Mobile and Casterol along with Amsoil are also great oils though.

[mikebxb]

I'm new to forum AND new Big Twin EVO owner..
After reading Spyder's facts ( see Harleyhelp.com) re: synthetic oils in a Roller Bearing motor (Harley) I'm gonna stay with HD 20-50 Petroleum based oil.
1) its $4.96 / qt - half the price of Synth
2) These motors been runnin on fossil fuels for 100+ years...

We can debate the bearing skate issue but bottom line is what is most cost efficient.
( I will , however continue with mobil ONE in the C6)

[hotroadking]

Ok lets address the bearing skate myth again, once and for all, again

It's simply not true, it doesn't happen, not because of the type of oil, I've had discussions with bearing manufacturing companies because 7 years ago this crud was floating around, I couldn't for the life of me figure out how 20W-50 Dyno was "tacky" or 20W-50 Syn was slipperier because the rating of 20W-50 determines the oils ability to lubricate. So both being the same grade they both have the same properties, one isn't slippery'er than the other.

According to the bearing engineers the reason a bearing skates is improper fit or installation, or improper bearing used for the application.

Go to Bob Is The Oil Guy post some questions about this in the motorcycle section, you'll get a good number of answers from oil techs. Don't believe the bunk someone writes on a webblog, wait, it's on the net it must be right?

Not picking on you Mike but what you're saying is just old wives tail stuff that has been beat to death and proven wrong so many times, I'd rather you hear it once here and not spread it around.

BTW if it's good enough for c6, Porsche, Ferrari, Caddies Northstar it's good for the HD.

The only difference to syn and dyno is that the syn won't break down as fast or as easy as dyno, syn can go to higher temps, and it will remain as close to it's original properties longer, that's why it lubricates better.

Nothing wrong with HD 360 dyno, run that if you like, just don't spread rumors about "bearing skate" that are unfounded.

You probably didn't know and I"m not trying to hammer you, more so the guys site that has this stuff up.

[mikebxb]

Hotroadking,
No offense taken
You provide a very good argument.Faulty bearings could very well be what started all the fuss.
I certainly dont have the HD experience to go toe to toe with you.
I'm also for moving away from foriegn oil dependance & Syn is a good start.
In the case of my All aluminum engined Corvette I willuse what the manufacturer recommends & happily that is MOBIL One / SYN facsimile.

In the case of my new Harley I'm way lean on the learning curve but if the Petrol based oil does the job & is cheaper... Well, You know what they say
" Money doesnt talk, it SCREAMS". My wallet says $4.96 /qt is a good thing.
I'm new to the party....next round is on me Keep em comin !

[skull2007]

i'v reseached this subject (bearing skate) and came to the following conclusion:

it's a myth

but i'm no scientist, this is just what i came up with.

[hotroadking]

Mike glad it came across the way I intended as an information post.

Yep run what you want, as long as it's 20W-50 and run a vtwin type oil it's got better ingredients, and they may not make a ton of difference but they are there to help.

I run mobil1 vtwin, it's more expensive, yes, about $8 a qt at the local auto store, but I only need 4 qts yeah it doubles the costs but thats what S&S suggests.

I wouldn't run the HD Syn3, because I tried it and the motor was noiser than with Mobil1Vtwin

For a while Mobil1 20W-50 auto oil was basically the same as Mobil1 Vtwin, only a tiny difference in a couple of additives. So everyone was running the Mobil1 Red cap 20W-50 from wally world for $5 a qt. Packaging has changed now and supposedly the contents. Haven't seen a test on it yet.

[Glen]

Maybe if we had Synthetics back in the sixties the Corvair would
still be around.

[FriendGregory]

I made sure the oil said for V twins and was 20/50. I am lower on oil then made me comfortable and when I put the drop blocks on tomorrow morning I am going riding.

My 1989 FLHS leaks like a Harley...gotta find where to check the transmission oil.

[chucktx]

the easiest way to find it is to check the manual ya got for it.....it is over there under that pile of rags.....next to the tool box!!!! lol lol
the most important tool in your tool box!!
hope this helps..

[cowboy]

That's good Chuck My Book shares a draw with it's cousin my daughters sporty book

[CD]

Well, something's never change do they? It's hard to believe that dipsquats website is still there after all these years. He is so full of crap he could fill a room with a single fart.

That Taurus SE with the Yamaha HP engine used Mobil 1 stock and it has a ton of rollers. Porsche's come with Synthetic stock. Hell, more that half of the fuel and oil produced by Germany in the latter part of WWII was synthetic based.

Bottom line, put ten professional high performance engine builders and I mean PROS into a room and have this discussion and ask for a vote. Wanna bet on the outcome?

This jerk off recommends HD brand oil!!!! HD never has and never will produce their own lubes. They create a specification and farm it out for bids. Just like our government does....and the lowest bidder that meets the specs wins. You really want to trust an oil like that? Not me...

I could have sworn Ken put a lid on these earl threads

[voodoochild]

Originally Posted by CD

Well, something's never change do they? It's hard to believe that dipsquats website is still there after all these years. He is so full of crap he could fill a room with a single fart.

That Taurus SE with the Yamaha HP engine used Mobil 1 stock and it has a ton of rollers. Porsche's come with Synthetic stock. Hell, more that half of the fuel and oil produced by Germany in the latter part of WWII was synthetic based.

Bottom line, put ten professional high performance engine builders and I mean PROS into a room and have this discussion and ask for a vote. Wanna bet on the outcome?

This jerk off recommends HD brand oil!!!! HD never has and never will produce their own lubes. They create a specification and farm it out for bids. Just like our government does....and the lowest bidder that meets the specs wins. You really want to trust an oil like that? Not me...

I could have sworn Ken put a lid on these earl threads

CD, what dipsquats website are you referring to?