Need ideas

skull2007 · Jan 16th, 2008, 04:44 PM

putting my exhaust back together. had a previous leak at the header/muffler joint due to using bad clamps. just want to make sure it can't possibly leak. i've already cleaned up the surfaces with emry cloth. anybody know about any type of sealants or anything

chucktx · Jan 16th, 2008, 08:33 PM

personally, i would not use any sealants. i would clean as you did then use quality clamps. the reason i would not use sealants is it will make later removal nearly impossible. also, after you ride it for a while and get back to the house, retighten the clamps while hot....

duke76 · Jan 16th, 2008, 08:59 PM

I have heard some guys having decel popping and after richening up the mixture to get rid of the pop still have it, what they did was to use copper (ultra high temp exhaust silicone)sealant, I have not used this but have heard a few guys that have, eliminates the cold air getting drawn in causing the popping and you would still be able to take it apart very easily. Todd

Dakota · Jan 16th, 2008, 09:25 PM

I've always used the copper high temp silicone sealant. Don't know if it helps that much or not, but I've used it anyway. As far as I can tell everything still comes apart easily. I think sometimes it might make it come apart easier since it helps keep the parts from rusting/corroding together.

skull2007 · Jan 17th, 2008, 03:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by duke76

I have heard some guys having decel popping and after richening up the mixture to get rid of the pop still have it, what they did was to use copper (ultra high temp exhaust silicone)sealant, I have not used this but have heard a few guys that have, eliminates the cold air getting drawn in causing the popping and you would still be able to take it apart very easily. Todd

exactly, it's

trying to fine tune a map, can't tell if your're lean or the exhaust is puling in air

so far it's been

FLHTbiker · Jan 17th, 2008, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chucktx

personally, i would not use any sealants. i would clean as you did then use quality clamps. the reason i would not use sealants is it will make later removal nearly impossible. also, after you ride it for a while and get back to the house, retighten the clamps while hot....

I agree with chuck on this one. This is the way I have done this with good Success. Had to pull the mufflers off of a bike one time that had a sealant on it and it was almost impossible to remove. Had to use a torch to heat it up just to remove it.

skull2007 · Jan 17th, 2008, 09:57 AM

clamps- my problem started by using the clamps provided by V/H. i swiched back to the stock HD ones which are much better, now i've heard you shouldn't re-use them. is that just crap from the manual, you know throw everything away. they seem ok to me

Dakota · Jan 17th, 2008, 10:14 AM

Well, I don't know what's correct, but I've reused the ones on my Rinehart TD's several times. As long as the look good, why not? Squirt a little lube on the threads so they turn easily.

chucktx · Jan 17th, 2008, 10:53 AM

i have reused the hd clamps. i use a torque wrench to specs and also clean/lube the threads. will also use some anti-seize.....

skull2007 · Jan 17th, 2008, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chucktx

i have reused the hd clamps. i use a torque wrench to specs and also clean/lube the threads. will also use some anti-seize.....

exactly what i plan to do, plus thinking about alittle silicone around the joint to keep it from pulling in air just in case

duke76 · Jan 17th, 2008, 11:31 AM

I woulnt be afraid at all to use a little silicone around the joints, its not like locktite, it will come apart, I use silicone damn near every day at my job, as a matter of fact alot of oe stuff uses it instead of a traditional gasket, have never had a problem getting it apart to fix something, Todd

FLHTbiker · Jan 17th, 2008, 11:48 AM

I use Howe's multi-purpose spray lubricant on the threads of the clamps before I start to loosen them. I use the HD clamps and have re-used them and like Chuck I torque them to spec's. I've seen where a guy tightened his clamps down to tight and snapped a bolt.

goats_hogs · Jan 17th, 2008, 06:23 PM

I use Loctite brand high temp silicone red at the slide in area on all fittings of the exhaust on both my baggers. It will seal up and not leak, lowers the chance for "squeaks" on the stock bagger exhaust (with aftermarket or stock mufflers) and removal is easy when the time comes. I've put over 10k on each of my baggers in the past year, and have not had a leak at joints on either of them.

Stuff is pretty cheap too. Just clean the areas that will contact, and give them both a very light coat (just enough to tell it's on there) on the contact area.

skull2007 · Jan 21st, 2008, 05:31 AM

well it's back together. wasn't happy with how weakly the clamps drew down.seemed weak

doesn't seem to leak. going to test it by obstructing the exhaust alittle. the 5/16 bolt with washers toned em down and made the exhaust deeper. unable to get on the road (10 degrees)

. looking for some good clamps to no avail. HD seems to be the only ones with good clamps, i'm going to call the steeler and see if they're the most expensive

going to checkout an auto parts store too.

my big question is...... why not braze/weld the damned thing

it'll still be able to remove it, and have excess to the baffles

see it leak then

chucktx · Jan 21st, 2008, 12:42 PM

you will be hard pressed to find better clamps than hd......weld away!!!!!!!

skull2007 · Apr 1st, 2008, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skull2007

well it's back together. wasn't happy with how weakly the clamps drew down.seemed weak

doesn't seem to leak. going to test it by obstructing the exhaust alittle. the 5/16 bolt with washers toned em down and made the exhaust deeper. unable to get on the road (10 degrees)

. looking for some good clamps to no avail. HD seems to be the only ones with good clamps, i'm going to call the steeler and see if they're the most expensive

going to checkout an auto parts store too.

my big question is...... why not braze/weld the damned thing

it'll still be able to remove it, and have excess to the baffles

see it leak then

have had a chance to ride a little. the damned popping and farting are gone. the lolipop thing is what did it. now i get a nice rumble. seems to have better low-end performance too

chucktx · Apr 1st, 2008, 11:56 AM

good deal........glad it is all better for you!!!!!!!!!! ride safe!

HellBoy · Apr 1st, 2008, 09:04 PM

After my Stage I upgrade I get less popping, but it still happens when the engine's not completely warmed up and occasionally when it is warm. I had V&H baffles put in my straight pipes and it helped the low end a lot. If I'm following this thread correctly, I should I check the clamps around my pipes and tighten them after a ride to help with the popping?

skull2007 · Apr 2nd, 2008, 04:21 AM

popping and farting is like a curse, it can be the result of several causes.one of them being a poorly tuned map. before doing anything with a map i would strongly recommend making sure your intake & exhaust don't leak. exhausts seem to like to leak at the header/muffler joint, i believe this is often the result of using those sub-standard clamps which come with aftermarket pipes. if you attempt to adjust a map on a leaky bike you'll drive yourself nuts, like a dog chasing his/her tail

HellBoy · Apr 2nd, 2008, 06:58 AM

I've occasionally wondered what kind of clamps are on my drag pipes. There's a HOG chapter meeting in two weeks and I'll make notes of all my questions and see what's up. I'd gladly change to Harley clamps if it stops the popping.

Update: Oh well, tried tightening the clamps and they as tight as could be..