Rear Disc Rotor Wear

AZroaddust · Feb 8th, 2008, 06:08 PM

The very outer edge extending for about 1/8" has some really rough spots around the entire perimiter. From there going towards the ID normal pad wear on the disc is showing light scratching (.002'-.004" aprroximatly) and I brake smooth wihout noise, chatter, or pulling.

I checked my pads and they look almost new.

Some H-D dude told me that it was unsafe to ride my bike because the brake pads will hit the rough edges and get ground down to pulp. I looked at him incredulously and asked why that would happen when it was evident the pads don't ever touch that part of the disc. His retort was that as the brake pads wear down to metal, then it would hit and cause problems.

Ah ha, says I. In other words the previous owner probably let things get away from him and the brakes got worn down until there was caliper to rotor rubbing and wear. He said yes, that may have happened.

IF that is the case, I shouldn't have any concerns until my pads start getting thin, then I was thinking I might get the rotor ground and/or lapped to smooth it out as long as (tell me how much) metal is removed.

I appreciate anyone's knowledgeable input. I'm sure I'm not the only one that H-D stealerships try to intimidate by fear into buying an expensive repair that may not be required at the time.

OH, he also told me my front tire was getting too worn and was also usafe because he came out with an "adjustable" thread depth gauge and it was starting to hit the red area on his dial. How do I know what depth it was set at? If you use the penny check on the tread like you do on a car, I have more than twice as much depth!

chucktx · Feb 8th, 2008, 07:31 PM

on the rotor issue.....check the service manual sittin on the shelf next to the adult beverage cooler. it will have min.specs for rotor thickness. use an ordinary micro. to get the thickness. im not sure onthe bike rotors, but on cars it is stamped on the side of the rotor. i havent looked......duh!!

on the tire tread, only you can decide how safe you want to be. some folks run until the wear bars are showing, others change a bit earler. rule of thumb is the penny/lincoln head test.....

cowboy · Feb 8th, 2008, 07:49 PM

ya what chuck said , also it's your life so keep a good eye on the front tire , if you check it & feel good about it ride it , how many miles do have on it ?
I get about 15k out of my metlzers , after that I change no matter how it looks

AZroaddust · Feb 8th, 2008, 08:06 PM

1st of all, my Service Manual, Parts Book, and Owners Manual are in a white box with a lid in the drawer of my workbench right next to my............Refrigerator in the garage! that's spooky that you new that!

Duh, guess I could look in the book for the thickness, but guess I'm on the right track. Do you concur with my theory of why it's worn and why I can wait until I do a complete brake job to either grind or replace the rotor though?

As far as the penny, I can stick it in the tread up to President Lincoln's nose or beyond. Another unnecessary sale saved! Too bad the dork at H-D didn't just say "keep an eye on that front tire, it's starting to show wear", but then that would be being honest. Can't do that and stay employed at a H-D joint I guess. Too bad it has to be that way

(Probably all on commission).

I'm not sure of miles. I have put just over 4k on it. When I bought it with 13K it was a realtively new tire. Because it had 13K on it and the tread looked really good, I'm sure it's been replaced. I will keep an eye on it.

Thanks again!

cowboy · Feb 8th, 2008, 08:13 PM

If the roter feel's smooth & the pad's are thick just go with it save your pennies & do it all together on that rainy day this summer

Ultra Al · Feb 8th, 2008, 08:29 PM

I agree with Cowboy, if its showing a little wear then go ahead and wear it out, you will know when that is, then take a look at whats out there and replace rotor and pads. Take a look at your options, I saw something new on Vtwin TV awhile back that was light weight and nearly bullet proof but I'll be darned if I remember the manufacturer. Maybe someone here can help me out on that. As far as the tire, watch your pressure, I check mine about every other ride especially if there has been a significant temperature change, but then I'm kind of a fanatic on maintenance and clean up, comes from years on a shovelhead I guess. AL

chucktx · Feb 8th, 2008, 08:34 PM

look here al....is this the rotors you are talking about??

Lyndall Racing Brakes - The worlds best Brake Pads & Composite Rotors --- Home ---

Ultra Al · Feb 8th, 2008, 09:04 PM

YEP thats the one. Thanks AL

fxdxsteve · Feb 8th, 2008, 10:56 PM

the me880 tires have wear marks in them just like car tires I don't know about dunlops

VYBR8ER · Feb 8th, 2008, 11:48 PM

I haven't seen a tire for motorcycles that doesn't have wear bars. The Standard rule with tire tread depth is at 2/32" of tread you should start watching your tires. Once they get to 1/32 depth they are considered unsafe because they lose the ability to channel water and also are thin to the point that the tread can't resist sharp objects. It's a safety thing that you shouldn't take lightly. When running at freeways speeds the tires heat up and when thin have a tendency to shed rubber. Seen a few good customers have gone down hard trying to get the extra 1000 miles out of a tire.
The disc brake rotor hase the minimun thickness stamped on it near the center of the disk. Normally the front rotors are .180" and the rears are .205". If you don't let your pads go to metal you shouldn't have any problem with the disks. I generally recommend changing them when the go below 1/16 of an inch.
The poor joe who is writing your service is just trying to do his job and point out the things that you need to keep an eye on. And yes, he might be paid commission for up selling parts, that's the american way of doing business.

AZroaddust · Feb 9th, 2008, 07:54 AM

VYBR8ER.

Thanks for your input, but I disagree about ther "Poor Joe". As National Sales Manager of a large company we sell by fact not fear. Looking at what and how he said things, inluding tagging and making me sign that my bike is unsafe is an attempt to make a sale based on fear and intimidation.

Had he been honest and advised me to watch things, as most everyone on this thread concurs, he would have gained credibility and future long-term business from me. Now he looses all future sales to me because he tried to make a fast unnecessary $500.00 sale but ended up with nothing.

I thought the American Way was truth & honesty. That has always worked for me and I sleep great at night!

cowboy · Feb 9th, 2008, 08:27 AM

dito AZ roaddust , i have seen some employes at a few HD dealers do the same thing & that dealer has lost my busness i'am lucky here we have about 5 HD dealers in about A 50 mile area

Ultra Al · Feb 9th, 2008, 12:59 PM

All HD dealers are not equal. Some are staffed predominantly with "poor Joe's" and then there are some staffed with the real deal. The only dealers near me are 70 miles north (Big Spring) which is the oldest dealership in Tx. but still small compared to the freeway emporiums, and one 80 miles east in Abilene. It is a bigger dealer but if I have a question I just bypasss the kids and go straight to the owner who is even older than I am. One look at his motorcycle collection pretty much says it all. AL

hotroadking · Feb 11th, 2008, 01:48 PM

So here's a way to resolve if he was being helpful or pushing parts or both, JMO but that's his job,to be helpful and sell parts. I'll side with that method.

Go to an auto parts store see if they have a tread measurment tool, if so take it out and see what /32 you are at, if they don't any tire store will have one and they don't have a stake in selling you a tire for your bike.

I have ridden mine down to far on occasion and it's dangerous. BTW 17000 on a front tire is getting to the end of the life of the tire, they usually get 20K at the max, also the lower part of the tread is stiffer and handling can suffer.

Hey it's your skin litterally if you feel ok with it that's your decision but the dealers have liability insurance and many do want to see people ride safe, I mean if we're all plastering ourselves all over the place they are not going to sell bikes right?

Anyway back to the tread thing, talked with the lead tech at the dealer, we were looking at Buds RK rear tire, flatter than a pancake, tread wise, he was telling me that 8 out of 10 bikes in the collison center had bald or low tread tires, and that contributed to the accident.

AZroaddust · Feb 11th, 2008, 07:11 PM

[quote=hotroadking;33685]So here's a way to resolve if he was being helpful or pushing parts or both, JMO but that's his job,to be helpful and sell parts. I'll side with that method.

Go to an auto parts store see if they have a tread measurment tool, if so take it out and see what /32 you are at, if they don't any tire store will have one and they don't have a stake in selling you a tire for your bike.

I have ridden mine down to far on occasion and it's dangerous. BTW 17000 on a front tire is getting to the end of the life of the tire, they usually get 20K at the max, also the lower part of the tread is stiffer and handling can suffer.
QUOTE]

Good idea. Iwill do that. Maybe I didn't state it correctly, but I'm positive this is NOT the original tire w/ 17K on it. Both tires looked brand new when I bought it, and the guy that's telling me to get a new front even said the back was in very good condition. I'll check the depth on my own as you have suggested.

Thanks!

Ultra Al · Feb 11th, 2008, 08:14 PM

Maybe just the rear tire was replaced. I know I go through about 2 rear tires for every front tire. AL

cowboy · Feb 11th, 2008, 08:22 PM

that's pretty much standerd Al , two rear to one front , as long as you keep the right presure in them

AZroaddust · Feb 11th, 2008, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cowboy

that's pretty much standerd Al , two rear to one front , as long as you keep the right presure in them

AHH SOOO! (velly intelesting)

Thanks!

VYBR8ER · Feb 12th, 2008, 10:05 AM

Glad you're beginning to understand. Yes, the majority of accidents are caused by a maintenance issue which is ussually tires. The biggest thing I see everyday is customers who DO NOT check their tire pressure and then get upset when I inform them that the tread on their tire is cupped and they wore it out in 5000 miles because they don't put air in their tires. I check all 3 of my bikes every 2 to 3 weeks or before any ride where I plan to ride any more than 150 miles. I also do a quick safety check every time the bike goes out of the garage.

hotroadking · Feb 12th, 2008, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VYBR8ER

Glad you're beginning to understand. Yes, the majority of accidents are caused by a maintenance issue which is ussually tires. The biggest thing I see everyday is customers who DO NOT check their tire pressure and then get upset when I inform them that the tread on their tire is cupped and they wore it out in 5000 miles because they don't put air in their tires. I check all 3 of my bikes every 2 to 3 weeks or before any ride where I plan to ride any more than 150 miles. I also do a quick safety check every time the bike goes out of the garage.

Yep 2 to 1 is the common ratio, the more power you have the quicker the rear will eat up. low tire pressure, and freshly paved roads will do it as well at least the ones in NC mountains loved my avon.

Check your air and bike each time you go out, develop a good habit.

Rear Disc Rotor Wear

Rear Disc Rotor Wear

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