[Ultra Al]

Terry Components Terminal Velocity Fuel Management System
[TC-TVFM200]
I see one of our sponsers has what looks to be a good deal on this unit and it looks like it might be what I need. I am I confess ignorant when it comes to computers and fuel injection when it comes to motorcycles. The RK is the first such bike I've had and mostly I've just rode it. Do any of y'all have knowledge or experience with this particular unit? I would want to put it on an 02 Road King. Thanks. Al

[chucktx]

not me, im a carb guy myself!!!!!!!!!! hope somebody chimes in!

[Ultra Al]

They also have a great deal on the DFO system but it is just a bypass around the system to adjust lean/rich, at least thats how I read it.
Johns Cycle Parts

AL

[duke76]

I have a cobra fi 2000r on my bike and it works great, no popping on decel, easy to adjust, can be computer illiterate to run it, just hook it up and go, you can play with the 3 pots to adjust if you like but mine was spot on. A couple of months ago I added a cam and true duals and getting some heads ported and doing the big bore so I purchased a thundermax with auto tune so I could tune each cylinder individually and mess with timing if needed. Todd

[duke76]

Oh, and one other thing, fuel mileage was 40-42 with stage one last summer

[ringo912]

Like Chuck I'm a carb guy, but for what it's worth I'll throw in my 2 cents. I have two friends that tried the Terry's componet module and never could get them to work right. One on a 02' RK and the other an 05'RK. They even had a couple bike shops and dealers try with no success. They sent the units back for a refund, bought the Zippers Thundermax and never looked back. Both of them are happier than a hog in a slop bin with the Zippers module! Again, I have no personal experience with either, just commenting based on what they told me!

[hotroadking]

I"ve heard the same.

Al, what have you done performance wise to the bike, you can install anything from a DFO to a full zippers thundermax with autotune,

World of difference in ability and price.

[Ultra Al]

HotRK
Nothin yet. I just thought at that price for the Terry's I would latch on to it for future use, but after the negative reports, think I'll pass. I talked to my indy shop locally here and he said he really didn't know a lot about it. He reccommended a Vance and Hines unit which he likes better than the DFO. I don't plan on doing much until the bike is actually ready for a top end. I may do cams and gear drive sooner though depending on chain drive wear. Al

[fujimo]

ultra....i would do the gear drive as soon as you can,,,we had a lot of problems with shoes and chains,,,factory SAID best if you check your shoes,,,chain EVERY rear tire change,,, so depend on rider,,,how many miles for shoes,,,we saw some gone in less than 15000,,, some good at 35000,,,, one gone at 8800,,,, gear drive can give you several different cams,,, they make a little different noise,,, AND will make noticable difference from the get go,,,,pops

[Ultra Al]

Thanks fujimo, food for thought. I have heard the noise factor is the reason the EPA wouldn't let Harley use them. What is the noticable difference, assuming the cams remain stock. I will probably replace the cams too,while Im in there, possibly with the Woods cam.Thanks, AL

[Red Rider]

Ultra Al - I switched to gear drive to get away from the shoe wear issue. I can't say I've noticed any significant noise, but then I don't hear as well as most. I do know I get better mileage and performance, though, and have no worries about the friggin' chain or shoes anymore. I've heard the same thing, that it was an EPA noise issue - figures.

[ringo912]

Originally Posted by Ultra Al

Thanks fujimo, food for thought. I have heard the noise factor is the reason the EPA wouldn't let Harley use them. What is the noticable difference, assuming the cams remain stock. I will probably replace the cams too,while Im in there, possibly with the Woods cam.Thanks, AL

Al...here's the scoop on gear noise. Harley originally designed the TC with gear driven cams, however they couldn't meet EPA noise levels. Bike manufactures are required to meet specified noise levels for the bike as a whole. The total noise level is measured with the bike running and includes not only the exhaust but all sound emitted from the bike. This includes and mechanical noise created by the moving parts in the engine. The EVO has always had gear driven cams, but when the EVO was introduced, the specs for noise were not as stringent. And of course the noise police continue to make things tougher.

As far as changing over to gear driven cams on a TC, there are two things that are critical to doing the job correctly. First is pinion shaft runout and second is proper gear lash. Pinion shaft runout must not exceed 0.003". If it does, you cannot run gear driven cams. Your only options are to have the flywheels retrued, or go with the new roller chain and hydrualic tensioners.

Gear lash is the amount of clearance between the teeth of two gears when they fully mesh. Other than tooth angle there are three important dimesions on a gear. They are the, major, minor, and pitch diameters. Major diameter is the largest diameter, measured point to point on the teeth. Minor is the smallest diameter, measure at the bottem of the teeth. Pitch diameter is measured using specific size gage pins set in the V groove of the teeth, this is the dimesion that controls gear lash. Excessive gear noise is a result of improper gear lash. Proper gear lash is 0.0005-0.001".

If the gear lash is to tight you will hear a definate whirring sound, kinda like an open belt primary. If the gear lash is to loose, you will hear a clicking sound like a bad lifter. When the cam comes around and moves the push rod up there is pressure agaisnt that side of the cam until the lobe is in the verticle positon. When the cam goes past the high side the push rod puts pressure on the the cam in the opposite direction. This reverse pressure is what cause the clicking sound when the gears lash is to loose.

If the gears are to tight you will get excessive gear wear, and of course all the metal shavings will end up in your oil pump. If you have a combination of to much runout and tight gear lash you can blow out a bearing or break the teeth on the gears. Loose gears will be noisey and throw your valve timing off a little. S&S makes US & OS gears so you can get the proper gear lash.

If everything is installed correctly you will not really notice much difference in sound. However, because you are meshing gear teeth together you will hear a slight mechanical sound at idle. When your cruising your pipes will overide that. I installed gear driven cams in my 02' Heritage last year and really don't notice a sound issue. My pinion shaft runout was 0.0015". What you will notice is a nice improvement in performance. I bumped the cam up a little to the Andrews 26G. Even if you go with stock cams you will notice a change. You will automatically pick up 4hp. That's how much it takes to turn the stock cams with the chain and tensioner shoe setup. You will also notice immediate throttle response, no hesitation. Hope this long winded discertation helps answer your concerns.