[strickt9Rob]

Yea, the 120" Ultima comes with 45mm mikuni and their air box. which is fitted with K&N seems to work well. The DYNO RUN was just an evaluation, no tune and the Ultima is an EVO not a twinkie. I'm not sure what they do at the factory when they pre run their engines. My guess would be they just hook them up, start 'em warm it up and shut 'em down, box 'em and send'em.This engine was pre run . SO, I'm still good with the #'s just out of the box. there is more HP & TQ to be easily gained when needed.....Thanks for everyones in put........Ride Safe..strickt9Rob.

[Art_NJr]

OK heres a 2-1 bike, looks like it's got more than 1500 RPM of power

I didn't say the engine would only run in a 1500 rpm range HRK, just that a 2-1 pipe on a Harley only works best in that range - for a reason. And there's an old saying, "The only substitute for cubic inches is cubic money." A big engine will make power even if it's not tuned right.

Let's have a look @ your dyno chart - how wide is the peak torque band? And why does it start falling off before the 5252 rpm crossover point? (HP = Torque x Rpm / 5252). Hmmm ... the HP curve starts fading after about 4500 rpm. Very strong engine to be sure & not bumps in the dyno chart which you see so many times, but you can see where it really comes on strong.

I agree on a racing and drag bike big ol straight pipes, work well.

If you're running a supercharger, then big pipes as short & straight as you can make them are the deal, but not for naturally-aspirated engines. There you get into valve sizes, cam timing & using "reversion" to your advantage - big 'ol drag pipes are not what you want. "Stepped pipe" technology is far better, but there's not a "one size fits all" deal.

[hotroadking]

Yeah I wasnt trying to say that was your point, however I don't agree it doesn't work but in 1500 RPM increments, that chart proves it works well from 3500 to 5500

Every chart I've seen the power drops at 5252 due to the math, TQ is going down and HP is going up, the only charts that I've seen different are Rice Rockets, Vrods and F1 cars where you have a lower tq high rpm environment, then the math works the curves differently.

The decent of the curve maybe is less on some than others, the point is the 2-1 is much more street friendly, JMO

I agree no one size fits deal,

[Art_NJr]

I am running stait pipes, Samson Fishtails Thats where the most of the HP can be regained.

Sure is.

Here's the Dyno sheet there's a little stumble in the excellerator pump. showed on the DYNO not when I ride it?

Well, 1st thing is I see no indication of a slipping clutch & if I'm not mistaken, that was your 1st concern.

That bump @ 2600 rpm is usually the carb needle (on a CV), not the accelerator pump. If the dyno has the "sniffer" & the chart graphs the A/F ratio you can really tell & that rpm range has always been a problem. But CV, Mikuni, S&S, you can get that range smoothed out. Won't ever get a flat line on the A/F chart off-idle to redline, but you can get pretty darn close.

Reason you don't feel it while riding is no doubt you don't ride the way the dyno runs were made - crank the throttle wide open @ 2300 rpm & hold it to 5400. Most runs are made @ WOT, but the operator doesn't have to do that & can go up thru the gears @ part throttle & hold a steady speed in any gear for a more real world view.

Chart looks good to 3600 & then your torque starts falling off & the rate of HP increase starts to fade. The pipes have a lot to do with that but if you're normally riding in the 2500-3500 rpm range, the bike should feel like it's running just fine. And as you said, it's so much better than the 80" engine you had that it feels fine for the cruising you normally do.

Yeah, there's certainly more power to be had, but I always say consider the rpm range you actually use 1st & foremost. No sense concentraing on top-end HP only if you're wanting low-end torque for day-to-day riding.