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SS reed valves for EVO


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Old May 30th, 2008, 09:39 PM   #1
Tomflhrci98
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Has anyone ever used the SS reed valve for EVOs to replace the plastic breather gear? I think the one I have slaps back and forth at certain RPMs on deceleration (throt closed). Very annoying noise.

Some of you may remember that I have been whining about this noise I have had for the last year and a half, ever since I had the motor rebuilt. Since then I've replaced the heads, checked the rockers, checked the piston pins, checked the lifter to bore clearance, changed push rods twice, checked the cam and kicked the cat etc., etc., etc.

Now I'm started to study this SS reed valve and wonder how this thing works and why it has such a wimpy spring on the end. It looks prone for a lot of movement. Maybe I need a stronger spring.

It's Friday now and I can't cal S&S till Monday.

As always any help from you all is always appreciated.

Thanks,
Tom
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Old Jun 1st, 2008, 07:37 PM   #2
Lucifer
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The theory behind it is fine ,but in reality it is a weak link. I 've heard of a few goin south , I think the spring gives out on it, better off with the S&S steel valve and line up the timing marks. IMO anyway.
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Old Jun 1st, 2008, 09:41 PM   #3
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Thanks Lucifer. I’d sell my soul to you if you would fix this thing.

My theory about the S&S reed valve making noise was wrong. I took it out and put in a new stock plastic one yesterday and still have the same noise. I swear it sounds like valve train noise, but, I decided to focus on the primary side. I’ll rip that apart maybe next week.

It’s tough when you are def in one ear and can’t hear out of the other to be able to tell where this is coming from. I have a new respect for HD mechanics and any mechanic when trying to diagnose a problem from sound.

Anyway, I’ll save the S&S reed valve for later when I change the cam and lifters after another 20 or 30K. Again, it wasn’t the problem.

Thanks for the reply.
T
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Old Jun 2nd, 2008, 05:13 AM   #4
Lucifer
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Hmmmm, with an offer like that, I'll have to try again. Did you check the pushrod tubes for marks from the rods rubbing anainst them, or front Ex rod need another 1/2 turn longer.Lifter bleeding down,tappet screen is clean. Or on the other side ,too much slack in the primary chain.
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Old Jun 11th, 2008, 09:45 PM   #5
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I've got a mechanic's stethescope that I've had for years and it's saved my bacon several times helping pin point just where noise is coming from. Saved me lots of work too especially when noise seems to travel around the motor.
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