[Lucifer]

Originally Posted by fujimo

well let me see,,,they have you sign a hold harmless before they run your bike on dyno,,,, does that meen nothing is going to happen???? or do they expect it to,,,,

It means anything can happen, and on the dyno they will run your bike hard,and can break stuff. Enter at Own Risk. Sign here please!!

what did we do before dyno,,,,

Long lonely stretches of hiway with not much traffic so you can hit kill switch coast to a stop and check plugs for the range you are setting.


and do we need the best setup for the street,,,,

No, but a lot of guys do want it as good as it can be.

as far as speed torque etc,,,, i can put in my own maps and change as often as i like to find what runs best for hiway,,, costs nothing,,,,is not hard on motor as dyno,,,,
No need for the dyno then, or taking the chance of blowing something up

sometimes things are sold to us we really do not need ,,, but the salesmen are very convincing,,,, and oh gee wizz,,,charlie has dynoed his,,,,, 99.9 percent of us do not need it,,,,
100% correct...And thats all it takes for people to line up and beat their bike on one

hey,,,by the way ,,,,i can pulll my front wheel off ground from first to second or third,,,,, that is more than i need,,,,, except when i have a brain fart and feel it is just the thing to do,,,,, pops

Seems like you didn't need a dyno to dial in the bike...would be a hoot to watch ya doin it tho... Why did you sign the waiver and let them strap it on??

I have well over 100,000 miles on mine, would I strap it to a dyno and let some guy wind it to the stops... Not a Chance!!! But I do like speed cruising... I do use the stretch of hiway here where in the early '70's they used to have midnight drags to run,kill,coast and check plugs to try to dial in midrange and top end.

We kinda changed the subject of this thread,but as you can see from Bone Collector's experience not all dyno operators know how to use the equipment

[hotroadking]

Originally Posted by fujimo

well let me see,,,they have you sign a hold harmless before they run your bike on dyno,,,, does that meen nothing is going to happen???? or do they expect it to,,,,

One word, lawsuit, some guy/gal has a part break, perhaps a weak point, old part, or just coincedence, so they grab Joe Lawyer who sends a nasty letter and threatens to take them to court, Dyno guy hires his lawyer, buncha letters, judge, regardless of ruling Dyno guy has to spend a couple of grand to defend himself from worthless claim.

So Hold Harmless, you know it's going to be run hard out, and dyno guy knows it's going to be run, if you put it on you agree to it and it's your problem whatever breaks.


Dynos are just tools to help tune, I use a Daytona Twin Tech Twin scan, screw the o2 sensors into the bungs on the headers, go out and ride, it records the AFR at all positions on EFI bikes, Then I set the values up properly and new targets on EFI.

Similar to run and chop and read plugs but a little more advanced.

Thing is, unleaded makes plug reading all but impossible unless you're a pro like Nascar or some major engine builder with the proper tools.

[Art_NJr]

As much as I like the dyno, with a highly-skilled operator & the air/fuel ratio "sniffer" attachment, it does not take into consideration real world factors including road conditions, weight & especially aerodynamics. For example, a Road King with the big windshield will accelerate the drum on the dyno in high gear faster than the bike will accellerate out on the highway in high gear. But some "roll-on" tests you can do yourself will tell you what you want to know.

Pick a nice stretch of road where you can nail the throttle (preferably in high gear) @ one point & let the engine pull to a 2nd point. How long did it take to get from point A to point B, or say you started @ 50 mph, how fast were you going when you got to point B? Any misfire, stumble or hesitation? Make whatever adjustments you think are necessary & do it again. And again. And again. Try to duplicate the conditions as much as you can & keep doing it until you're satisfied that's the best the bike is going to run.

Every time we've gone to the track we went to the dyno 1st & especially when going from very high humidity @ about 500' above sea level to almost no humidity @ about 4500' above sea level, the dyno got us really close. But time slips don't lie & further adjustments always picked up a little more. We're not dealing with 10ths of a mph on the street/road, but the same thing still applies - the dyno is a tool which can help you get the right air/fuel mixture, ignition timing & so on, but "roll-on" testing will tell you what you want to know for the conditions you actually ride in.