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Old Jul 13th, 2008, 10:56 AM   #21
Jammer
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I finally got the stock pipes on and after warming the bike up I tried to adjust the idle mixture. If I turned the screw either direction it bogged after about 1/2 turn. I was supprised as I thought for sure it would need adjusted. Took it for a drive and it still sputters a bit just off idle when cruisin through town. At least now I don't brodcast the sputtering noise in a 3 block radius, that was embarrasing . I did order a CV 40 off ebay and I should be getting it by this next weekend. Thinking about fabbing a press on flange to mount this up to my S&S intake. Not real impressed with the little rubber flanges.
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Old Jul 13th, 2008, 12:39 PM   #22
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don't be surprized if you have to screw the idle/mix in to about 1,1-1/2 turns out from all the way in, after putting on drags and a freeflow ac, I pulled the plug to the adjustment screw and the factory pre set for stock set up was way lean at only about 1 turn out. now I run at about 2-1/8 turns out.
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Old Jul 13th, 2008, 06:04 PM   #23
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I finally got the stock pipes on and after warming the bike up I tried to adjust the idle mixture. If I turned the screw either direction it bogged after about 1/2 turn. I was supprised as I thought for sure it would need adjusted.
Usually doesn't take much - just 1/4 turn either way should make a difference & in-between where the engine stumbles too rich & too lean is the spot you want.

Quote:
Took it for a drive and it still sputters a bit just off idle when cruisin through town.
That's almost always the needle. I happen to like the infamous N65C (PN 27094-88) although some prefer the NOKK & the one that comes in '04-up Sportsters seems to work fine. Sometimes you need to shim the needle up a little bit with a brass washer, although I haven't needed to do that on my bikes.
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Old Jul 15th, 2008, 07:42 PM   #24
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I got my CV carb in to replace the Super E and started on mounting it. I'm planning on reusing the Super E manifold and I've fabricated a press on aluminum flange to match the bolt pattern. Problem I've run into though is the throttle linkage assembly is on the right instead of the left side like the Super E and it runs right into the front cylinder's head. Wasn't expecting that. I thought it would mount right up. Need more books, lol.
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Old Jul 15th, 2008, 08:32 PM   #25
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jammer, im sure it is just a slight setback......happens all the time. press on you will succeed!!!!
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Old Jul 16th, 2008, 04:56 AM   #26
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Your right, and I'll keep at it for sure. Am thinking I'll need to cut an angle on one of the mounting surfaces in order to angle the carb away from the head. Is that or extend it out further. If I figure out how to post pic's I'll throw some out there. Pictures say a thousand words.
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Old Jul 16th, 2008, 07:14 PM   #27
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waiting on the pics!!!!!!!!!
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Old Jul 17th, 2008, 03:39 PM   #28
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I'm trying a link now for a pic. Will have to see if it works. Finally got it. Does the clearance between the throttle brackets and the front head look right? I thought about rotating it but wasn't sure what that would do to the fuel level / float. I went ahead and ordered a bracket from ebay that mounts the carb to the cylinders hoping that'll set it in correct alignment. Just doesn't look right, too close. Hmm.
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Old Jul 17th, 2008, 04:46 PM   #29
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I'm trying a link now for a pic. Will have to see if it works. Finally got it. Does the clearance between the throttle brackets and the front head look right? I thought about rotating it but wasn't sure what that would do to the fuel level / float. I went ahead and ordered a bracket from ebay that mounts the carb to the cylinders hoping that'll set it in correct alignment. Just doesn't look right, too close. Hmm.
On my Sportsters the carb is a snug fit & the throttle cables go up & over the front rocker box. Using either the "Screamin' Eagle" air-cleaner backing plate, hollow bolts & spacers, or an aftermarket A/C with a carb support bracket & "banjo bolts" for the head-breathers, the carb will only fit one way.
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Old Jul 17th, 2008, 07:13 PM   #30
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arts idea is good....use an aftermarket backing plate with the bolts. it will fit the carb as it should be..................
nice job on the pic by the way!!!!
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Old Jul 18th, 2008, 07:58 AM   #31
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JMO why not pick up a stock CV40 intake or SE CV intake for it, then everything will bolt right up and the intakes are a dime a dozen.

SNS intake sits way back, also it's higher up than the front of a cv intake so it raises the carb and may put it in the way of the tank when you drop the tank.

If you look at a cv intake for the cv51 it's really obvious the way the intake slopes down to accomodate the height.

If not you should be able to get that cv to work on the sns intake it's done all the time..

Mikuni has a rubber flange that bolts to the SNS intake and has a band clamp built in to hold the carb in place, might be the thing to look at from a shop for a Mik 42 which has the same OD as the CV40 on the back where it meets the intake.
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Old Jul 18th, 2008, 10:11 AM   #32
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The feedback has been great, I appreciate very much. I agree and have purchased a backing plate. Like you say this should set the factory position for sure. Initially I was going to use the SnS intake thinking it wouldn't be much different but I'm really second guessing that now. Like you mention, the stock intake is profiled a bit different so I have no doubt thats the problem I'm looking at. I'll either find a cheap intake and just buy it or wait till the bracket comes in to see how far off it is.
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Old Jul 24th, 2008, 07:01 PM   #33
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I just got the new carb bracket in and sure enough, it lines the carb about 3/8 in above the SnS intake opening. Looks like I'll need to dump that SnS intake for a stock one. Must be havin a dry spell on people getting rid of their old stock intakes as I can't seem to find any used ones for sale. May have to try the *cough* dealer *cough*
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Old Jul 24th, 2008, 08:11 PM   #34
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jammer, your running a 94 sporty.....correct???? i will check my sources for an intake for you...........sometimes i get lucky, other times not. worth a try if you want me to check.............
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Old Jul 25th, 2008, 03:08 AM   #35
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That would be great, thanx Chucktx. And your right, it is a 94 sporty
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Old Jul 25th, 2008, 09:07 PM   #36
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i will let ya know what i find tomorrow.........
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Old Jul 26th, 2008, 08:26 AM   #37
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I had a lot of trouble with backfiring (particularly as you put on power to get out of a corner) with the Cv cabr and stage 1 on my 1200 Sportster.. After 5 years, eventually gave up playing with it and fitted a Mikuni... Best thing I ever did to my Harley.. Runs very sweet now, better pull off and smoother running all round.

I see nobody mentioned teh Mikuni..
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Old Jul 26th, 2008, 09:25 PM   #38
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jammer..........no luck on the used intake.......sorry.....
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Old Jul 27th, 2008, 10:22 AM   #39
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Thats ok Chucktx, I appreciate you lookin. I checked with the dealer and its a bit cheaper than I thought, was $60 for intake, mounting flanges and seals. I'll place the order and should have them in about 5-7 days. I don't know alot about the Harley carbs but I've worked on alot of cars and the carbs they use. The one thing I see alot of is too big of a carb being installed and they end up needing alot of rpm's to generate the proper vacuum across the venturi. The bike I got had a SnS super E and it ran great at wide open throttle but ran poorly on low rpm puttin around town. In askin these guys what was a good carb for low rpm there was alot of feedback for the stock CV carb. The thing that impressed me was the variable slide which would restrict the size opening in the carb and keep the vacuum up so even just off idle you should still get a strong signal across the venturi. I may be wrong but it sure sounded like a good setup for low rpm, but I gotta say I don't know much on the Mikuni.
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Old Jul 27th, 2008, 11:19 AM   #40
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Hi Jammer
I spent a lot of time and money with our HD dealer trying to get my CV to work properly over a 5 year period. The problems started when I had the stage 1 fitted. After that it popped and banged a lot and lathough that did not overly fuss me it got dangerous in the wet when it diued and then banged into action as you pulled out of a corner.

The mikuni has significantly improved the smoothness of acceleration and doe sgive it a little more performance so overall I am happy with it. Not a cheap solutuon in the UK but you would probably get better prices in the USA.

Having the Mkuni fitted was just under £400 ((about $750)

With all the problems I had with teh CV I decided to let the experts (not HD dealer) supply and fit the carb so if it did not work I was not stuck with a new carb that did not solve the problem.
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