[kjoe]

Hey, I'm new to bike-talk forum--looks like a great resource. I bought a new Yamaha 250 vstar in April, and have put about 2800 miles on it. I'm really enjoying the little cruiser. The first 1500 miles I avg. about 75 mpg (High of 82, but never below 70). The last 1300 miles I have avg. about 65 mpg (haven't seen 70 mpg in a long while!) I would have expected the mileage to at least stabilize, if not increase after break-in. Had the valves adjusted after the drop, but no change. The dealer had no other ideas. All of the variables like gas used, driving conditions, etc. were there both before and after the drop, but still the little bike was amazingly consistent, even when toting my wifey! I hate to sound greedy, because 65 mpg is still good -- I'm just wondering what happened and if it can be fixed. Thanks, KJoe

[ironhorse]

to get the answers you seek. humm more info. but first welcome to the board.
is the bike (I probably missed this in your post) fuel injected or carbed, is this your first bike cause you may have been real gentle to it at first and now getting wrist-twistitise, which is very common alment that can sneak up on a rider with out knowlege, tire psi ok belt chain tension ok, riding position and direction, (I lose a kabootale going west and gain going east, wind and hills) did you have any upgrades, pipes, breather, and is it clean, are the plugs the right ones, others will chime in here shortly with more info so hang tight

[Red Rider]

2009 Yamaha V Star 250 Features & Benefits, model features
Yes, 65 mpg for a 250cc is too low, should be 70's, but ya have to know that 2-up is a gonna reduce a 250 a ton, into high 50s, as will any other loading factors. Weather can also be worth some -mpg in the summer, but shouldn't be huge in AL.

The valve adjustment sounds like one of those "dealer recommended" items. I hope it wasn't a waste, but I my gut tells me it was.

I'm betting it is a more simple problem, probably something loosened up. Get a manual yet?

- Check your plugs. Many 250cc bikes actually want you to use different gaps/& or plugs if you are doing high speeds (50mph +). Your manual will tell ya. Check that they aren't black or fouled or burnt down.
- Check that your mufflers are solidly on, as they can get loose and start the whole fuel-air mess.
- Check the seal around your carb, too. Things get loose on those little hummingbird bikes from the high revs they have to run at.
- Basically check every nut and bolt you can. If any are loose, tighten in accordance with manual (which may mean ya'll need some Locktite).

Good luck

[cowboy]

welcome , I have to agrre with ironhorse & Red on this , But will back IH up if you started taking off a little faster it will lower MPG , any extra weight over 10LB's will meak it work a bit harder & lower your MPG let us know how it comes out for you

[skull2007]

imo most mpg problems evolve around the trottle. sounds to me like you've been riding a bit resulting in you becoming more comfortble with the bike, this usually results in the rider twisting more on take off. and driving faster. it's normal. put louder pipes on and your mpg will drop even more from you turning up the volume by twisting more. so . . . . do like red said, get a manual, put your money back in your pocket. and ride, ride , ride, and by all means stay away from the steelership

[AZroaddust]

Yamaha. Hmmmm

Ethenol works in H-D's. Maybe some sake will work as a fuel additive. (Corn/Rice - what's the dif)?

[kjoe]

Thanks for the info guys. I think that gives me some ideas to pursue. Yes the dealer said the valves weren't out much at all, and the adjustment has made no difference. I'm not a mechanic, but I would like to get a manual as suggested and learn to do what work on the bike that I can (not really sure where to get a manual yet.) I had pulled the plugs, air filter, tire pressure and all looked good. As RR suggested, I need to check that carb is not loose, etc. I can't argue that I'm not a little more aggressive on the wrist twisting! Oh yeah, one other issue--I've had to repeatedly tighten the chain. I guess it keeps stretching. Then last week I put on a smaller rear sprocket (from 45 teeth to 42 teeth). Suddenly I found I was out of adjustment. If the chain loosens more now, not sure what to do. So far I like the taller gearing -- not having to shift as quick, and it does seem to ease up on the RPM's cruising at 65 mph. Maybe I'll be able to reclaim some of those MPG's. Thanks again for you help. KJoe

[chucktx]

making the chain smaller is very simple. break it at the master link, move the wheel as far forward in the adjustment slide as it will go. get a chain breaker, a small tool available at most bike shops. while there pick up a couple of master links and your manual. the dealer should be able to supply you with these, or a good indy shop...............lay the chain on the rear sprocket and give yourself one link extra. break the chain there and install the master link, then readjust the wheel...................piece of cake!!!!!!!!

[cowboy]

yep what chuck said oh for the days of a chain , not looking forword to changing the drive belt on the 03 E glide just shy of 55k on her

[chucktx]

Originally Posted by cowboy

yep what chuck said oh for the days of a chain , not looking forword to changing the drive belt on the 03 E glide just shy of 55k on her

when that time comes....im going to chain so i dont have to do it again!!!!
i figure the price will be cheaper......doing it myself......then i will be able to do it on the side of the road if need be!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Red Rider]

kjoe - uh, change in sprockets from 45 to 42 will be an MPG reducer, as you are turning your drive wheel with less turns of your primary. Gives more power at lower RPM - which is fun - but drinks more gas that way.

You indicate about 3000 miles on your bike, but with significant chain wear lately. That don't seem right, either. Chains don't really strectch, their roller diameter wears, making them longer. I can't tell you for certain that your wear is excessive, not from the e-world, but maybe you should just get a new friggin' chain to make sure. Keep the old one as a spare.

As for manuals, the dealer sells 'em (though they like to pretend they never heard of 'em) and you can also get them online.....just Google/Yahoo! "V-Star Tech Manuals" or something like it. You NEED one.

[kjoe]

Thanks again for the info. The dealer did say the factory chain was not the best quality, and recommended an "o-ring sealed chain", I believe he said. Which is supposed to stay lubricated more consistently. On the sprocket, I may have to eat my words RR, but I believe a smaller rear sprocket will reduce my engine rpm's at the higher speeds and increase mileage. If the front primary sprocket is turning at a constant speed, it will turn a smaller rear sprocket (axle) faster, increasing the drive wheel rpm's.
Less torque though.

[chucktx]

Originally Posted by kjoe

Thanks again for the info. The dealer did say the factory chain was not the best quality, and recommended an "o-ring sealed chain", I believe he said. Which is supposed to stay lubricated more consistently. On the sprocket, I may have to eat my words RR, but I believe a smaller rear sprocket will reduce my engine rpm's at the higher speeds and increase mileage. If the front primary sprocket is turning at a constant speed, it will turn a smaller rear sprocket (axle) faster, increasing the drive wheel rpm's.
Less torque though.

what you say about reducing the rpm is correct, but maybe due to the size ofthe engine, it may take more "gas" to keep the same speed.....because of hp size...............and less torque..............

[Red Rider]

OK, I've had a bit more "wodka" than recommended, but crappy mileage is crappy mileage. You knew it - you're the rider: something is not right. Check every friggin' bolt. Get a manual and actuallly read it (and if you've questions about what you're reading, ask 'em here). I think the valve job was a ___ job (and I made the same mistake in '82 - live and learn ). That Yammie 250 is a fun ride, so take the same pride I do now in my 1450cc 'King and get it right.

Some of this "factory chain" stuff smells. The Yam V-Star is a decent ride that comes stock pretty sweet. Time to find yourself a good independent shop - one that ain't looking for your credit before checking out your ride. O ring sealed chains reduce some wear, but not to the significance that is implied with a 3K bike. My BS flag is flying.

Bottom line: you're fighting for mpg that you should already have. I'd bet good cash that your problem is something simple - like a loose carb; a loose muffler/header; or a strong wrist with accompanying "strassos" - AKA - you've found a happiness in hittin' the gas more often than ya need. But I do doubt the last - so learn to be your own best wrench. Good news is that that bike requires no computer diagnostics to figure out. It is a real ride. Live it, love it, learn it.

[kjoe]

Good advice. I'll be checking bolts,etc. tonight. I think my next purchase will be a manual. The more I learn about the bike and maintaining it the more I think I'll enjoy it. KJoe

[cowboy]

kjoe the manual will be the best tool in your box , it's been a real long time for me on a 250 so I'am not going to guess

[ironhorse]

Originally Posted by kjoe

Thanks for the info guys. I think that gives me some ideas to pursue. Yes the dealer said the valves weren't out much at all, and the adjustment has made no difference. I'm not a mechanic, but I would like to get a manual as suggested and learn to do what work on the bike that I can (not really sure where to get a manual yet.) I had pulled the plugs, air filter, tire pressure and all looked good. As RR suggested, I need to check that carb is not loose, etc. I can't argue that I'm not a little more aggressive on the wrist twisting! Oh yeah, one other issue--I've had to repeatedly tighten the chain. I guess it keeps stretching. Then last week I put on a smaller rear sprocket (from 45 teeth to 42 teeth). Suddenly I found I was out of adjustment. If the chain loosens more now, not sure what to do. So far I like the taller gearing -- not having to shift as quick, and it does seem to ease up on the RPM's cruising at 65 mph. Maybe I'll be able to reclaim some of those MPG's. Thanks again for you help. KJoe

your consistant chain tightening is concerning at 3000 mi you maybe should have had to tighten it i repeat maybe once, it shouldn't be tight as in tight you will just be stretching the chain yourself there is a little slack in a tightened chain. and as chuck said ez to shorten