[Devolution]

Hey Guys, I had a prospective buyer with cash in hand for my RoadKing and can you believe it, the bike started leaking gas from the overflow tube. The person buying the bike was going to ride it home tonight and we had already fired it up to warm the bike and then turned it off of about 10 minutes with the gas off. We started the bike back up after sitting and I pulled the choke out a little because it had a chance to cool off. The bike would not start with the choke pulled out and started to leak gas from the overflow tube at the bottom of the carb. Now if I turn on the gas it just flows out from the carb.
The stock carb was rebuilt just a few months ago and I'm running a Alren Ness Big Sucker aircleaner. This is a 95 RoadKing.
Fortunately the guy really wants the bike so I have time to work on it.
I think the old gal just doesn't want to leave me.
Thanks for the help. Devo. :banghead

[ironhorse]

ya kiss'er ya caress'er and ya talk sweet to'er then tell'er she'll be better off with the other man

[Devolution]

Thanks Iron Horse, ain't that the truth. After I've been so good to her, never had any problems until I tried to sell her. -Devo.

[hotroadking]

float's stuck, tap on the bottom of the carb with a screwdriver or wrench to see if you can free it up. Otherwise remove the bowl and reset float height, bet it just overfilled stuck and got bound up all the way up.

[FLHTbiker]

Originally Posted by hotroadking

float's stuck, tap on the bottom of the carb with a screwdriver or wrench to see if you can free it up. Otherwise remove the bowl and reset float height, bet it just overfilled stuck and got bound up all the way up.

That is exactly what I was going to say. Had an old Kawy 1000 when I was young and had to carry a screw driver around with me and rap the carbs when they started to overflow from a stuck float. I was to cheap to pull them apart, wonder I didn't catch fire.

[Devolution]

Thanks HotRod, I think you're right, just dumb luck that it happened right in front of my buyer. I did tap the float bowl and it didn't work, but the sun was going down and so I rather work on it without someone standing over me.
Tomorrow I'll remove the float bowl. -Devo

[CD]

Before you do that try this old trick. Turn off the petcock and run it until it dies from fuel starvation. Whack the throttle a couple of times to get the squirter to pull most of the fuel out. Turn on the petcock and let the bowl fill and repeat one or two times. This opens the seat all the way and if it is just a tiny piece o crap it will come out. I used this trick more that a few times to help get people back on the road.

[Devolution]

Thanks Cyber Dave, Great Tip, I'll give a try first. I forgot to mention on my first post that the brake lights also stopped working also in front of the buyer. The old gal really doesn't want to go. -Devo

[hotroadking]

Front or rear or both.

If it's one or the other it's probably a switch

If it's both it's probably a bulb or wire

[smiley7661]

You must have treated her so nice that she does not want to leave....

[ironhorse]

Originally Posted by hotroadking

Front or rear or both.

If it's one or the other it's probably a switch

If it's both it's probably a bulb or wire

reverse that if it is one or the other it is probably the bulb or wire
if it is both it will most likly be the switch
I'm pretty sure thats what he meant to say
and CD is on track it sounds I never thought of doing it that way I just tapped on the bowl a little like the rest said, but now I own the dreaded (not really) EFI and love its proformance and reliability just don't care for the cost of touching the fuel system
oh and if ya got any shiney parts on or around the carb to tap on by mistake use the plastic end of the screwdriver it will result the same with out the possability of scratches or dings

[hotroadking]

Nope meant it the way I said it.

There are two brake switches

One in the right handlebar switch housing, this one usually compresses back into the housing and the light stays on because the switch needs to be pressed to be off.

The other is inline on the brake line by the trans

So check each one at a time, if one works, and the other doesnt it points at that switch that isn't working.

Now if the light isn't activated by either, check the bulb, if it is bad, replace, if good, check the power at the socket, it's connector, the connector under the seat etc move your way back to find the break in power...

Have a cigar and beer while you do this it's easier that way...

[Devolution]

Originally Posted by hotroadking

Nope meant it the way I said it.

There are two brake switches

One in the right handlebar switch housing, this one usually compresses back into the housing and the light stays on because the switch needs to be pressed to be off.

The other is inline on the brake line by the trans

So check each one at a time, if one works, and the other doesnt it points at that switch that isn't working.

Now if the light isn't activated by either, check the bulb, if it is bad, replace, if good, check the power at the socket, it's connector, the connector under the seat etc move your way back to find the break in power...

Have a cigar and beer while you do this it's easier that way...

Thanks Guys, I have the beer on ice and a Makers Mark waiting for me to light up.....of course after I work on the fuel problem. -Devo

[Devolution]

Originally Posted by CD

Before you do that try this old trick. Turn off the petcock and run it until it dies from fuel starvation. Whack the throttle a couple of times to get the squirter to pull most of the fuel out. Turn on the petcock and let the bowl fill and repeat one or two times. This opens the seat all the way and if it is just a tiny piece o crap it will come out. I used this trick more that a few times to help get people back on the road.

Cyber Dave, this did the trick, although it may not have blown all the way out, it still seems to be running rich.
Thanks, Devo.

[Devolution]

Originally Posted by hotroadking

Nope meant it the way I said it.

There are two brake switches

One in the right handlebar switch housing, this one usually compresses back into the housing and the light stays on because the switch needs to be pressed to be off.

The other is inline on the brake line by the trans

So check each one at a time, if one works, and the other doesnt it points at that switch that isn't working.

Now if the light isn't activated by either, check the bulb, if it is bad, replace, if good, check the power at the socket, it's connector, the connector under the seat etc move your way back to find the break in power...

Have a cigar and beer while you do this it's easier that way...

Break out the Margaritas, I forgot that I had changed out the grips a few weeks ago and I ground out the front brake when I reassembled the switches. All I had to do was take it apart and reassemble the switch house, brake lights work and Gas issue solved. Thank to all, drinks are on me. -Devo

[ironhorse]

i think HRK we were saying the same thing just understnding it diffly

[hotroadking]

might be probably were lol

glad you got it fixed and hope the beer and cigar were good to you...

[whacker]

Glad you got your problem solved...I'll drink to that....