[Erb]

I have a 2000 flhtc with 30k miles. about every 300 to 400 miles I have to replace the plugs. this started back in 05 after we got back from Sturgis.
have taken it to the local dealer 3 or 4 times and they tell me the same thing.
that they reset air mix in efi. when the plugs start to foul it is when the bike
is cold. the more cold starts the worst it gets until I change the plugs.
my question is do I go with a power commander or get it dyno tuned.
I just want to get it back to where I can enjoy riding again.

[duke76]

does it use any oil, maybe it is oil fouling? Todd

[skull2007]

Originally Posted by Erb

I have a 2000 flhtc with 30k miles. about every 300 to 400 miles I have to replace the plugs. this started back in 05 after we got back from Sturgis.
have taken it to the local dealer 3 or 4 times and they tell me the same thing.
that they reset air mix in efi. when the plugs start to foul it is when the bike
is cold. the more cold starts the worst it gets until I change the plugs.
my question is do I go with a power commander or get it dyno tuned.
I just want to get it back to where I can enjoy riding again.

what kinda mods have you done to the bike

[Erb]

Originally Posted by duke76

does it use any oil, maybe it is oil fouling? Todd

its not oil. by looking at the plugs you can see its running rich

[Erb]

Originally Posted by skull2007

what kinda mods have you done to the bike

it has a stage 1 in it, I had 203 cams in, thats really all thats done to the bike

[hotroadking]

I would say you have an EFI sensor problem, those MM efi systems either work spot on or are screwed up and usually it's a sensor.

There is a specific way to set things up, and any one of several sensors can cause problems.

FWIH the bike is going rich at startup, first thing I would do and this is common with older EFI bikes is change out the head temp sensor, it maybe telling the bike it's cold longer than it should so it stays in startup mode longer dumping fuel, like running with the choke open.

Sensor should be on the left side, front head behind the horn bracket, not too expensive and you can change it. Sensor may work but not be in range properly and then when the motor gets hot it works.

You have other sensors on the bike as well to be checked.

I'd toss $40 to $50 at that sensor first, it won't hurt and it might help.

As for tuning, if you have headwork, cams, exhaust filters or a combo of those a Powercommander USB is a good thing , it can increase power and fuel mileage however a good dyno tune with one is the way to go.

[Erb]

thanks for the info, I'll try the sensor first and let you know how it works.
as far as the power commander I know nothing about them, but am a fast learner any info you can pass my way would be apprecited.
thanks again

Originally Posted by hotroadking

I would say you have an EFI sensor problem, those MM efi systems either work spot on or are screwed up and usually it's a sensor.

There is a specific way to set things up, and any one of several sensors can cause problems.

FWIH the bike is going rich at startup, first thing I would do and this is common with older EFI bikes is change out the head temp sensor, it maybe telling the bike it's cold longer than it should so it stays in startup mode longer dumping fuel, like running with the choke open.

Sensor should be on the left side, front head behind the horn bracket, not too expensive and you can change it. Sensor may work but not be in range properly and then when the motor gets hot it works.

You have other sensors on the bike as well to be checked.

I'd toss $40 to $50 at that sensor first, it won't hurt and it might help.

As for tuning, if you have headwork, cams, exhaust filters or a combo of those a Powercommander USB is a good thing , it can increase power and fuel mileage however a good dyno tune with one is the way to go.

[hotroadking]

Welcome to Power Commander EX and Power Commander III USB

they are add on bolt on computers that "trick" the efi system and iginition into behaving differently.

You can download all kinds of maps but JMO the best is a dyno tune specific to your bike.