[hdhotrod]

I am looking for some info or feedback on the Mid USA Powerhouse 114 motor. I read about these several years ago and they sounded very interesting. If you're not familiar, it has the Falicon crankshaft, flat automotive type bearings, and side by side rods. Redline is +7,300 rpm. Supposed to make around 130 hp and torque. All that and good looks too!

Well I found one on Ebay still in the crate and I bought it. Paperwork says it was manufactured in 2003 and I understand they have been discontinued. I would like to know why? Are there inherent problems? Does anyone have any experience with these? I will be putting it in my 97 Road King over the winter and it may show up under "Projects".

I own it so it's too late to change my mind now but if you know anything about these, please drop me a line.

Thanks - Rick

[chucktx]

i would be interested in this same info.......sounds interesting...

[chucktx]

try this.......

Mid USA Powerhouse 114 motor - Google Search

[hotroadking]

Or you can go here and ask them yourself.

My bet is EPA - I didn't see complete motors on the catalog pages, costs a ton to certify a motor for EPA.

Thank you California...

MID-USA Motorcycle Parts

[hdhotrod]

I don't believe they carry engines anymore. I sent them an email about my motor but heard no response.

These motors didn't come with carbs and that's prpbably the reason - EPA cert.

Thanks - Rick

[cowboy140]

I saw them on ebay also and did a little research on them. I talked to a mid USA dealer and he told me that there were no parts available for them. From what I read they don't use a full head gasket. They have copper O rings that seal the combustion chamber and oil returns. Also that the Delkron cases were made special for Vern Ott the designer of the motor. Just what I read ... not sure on that.
I saw an artice in an online magazine that showed it being put together with lots of pics and info. Will try to get a link to it if you're interested.
If I had one I'd have serious concerns about ever needing parts or even torque specs on it.
It only looks like an ordinary V-twin. It's all different on the inside.

[fxdxriderleo]

most companies discontinue things because they don't sell enough of them. not cost effective to make something and have it set in the wharehouse. it may be the best thing since sliced bread, but if no one wants one, they don't make them.

[hdhotrod]

I spoke to Mid-USA and they told me they were discontinued January of 08 due to lack of sales. These motors were about 10 grand new and for that kind of money you could buy an S$S 145 Tribute motor. I believe it's a bargain at $3,300.

I think It's going to be a great motor but I took Cowboy's advice and bought an extra crank, rods, and bearings for it today. I think everything else should be available if need be.

It's mine and it's paid for so I hope it works out well.

Thanks for the responses, I'll try and post some pics once I get going.

-Rick

[chucktx]

that is cool......ya could do a howto and put it in the project section....let us sorta look over your shoulder as ya build it!!!!

[cowboy140]

Here's a link to the article I mentioned about the motor. Lots of pics and info may be some help to you.

A Different Type of V-Twin - Tech - Hot Rod Bikes Magazine

I bought the heads and rocker boxes last month myself. Can't afford a complete motor right now and am hoping that they will bolt onto an S&S 117 in. or something similar in the future. Hard to pass up billet heads set up like those for $400 a set.
Good luck with it. Hope it runs good and if you ever find out what cases the heads will bolt to ... pass it on.
Dale

[hotroadking]

HDhotrod,

Thought I'd chime in here and give you a bit of advice for that 114 in your 97 RK, in that I've helped a buddy out for the past few years with his Elbruto 113 in his 97 RK.

Now that you're popping in a 120+/- HP/TQ motor into a bike originally built with a 50 HP motor you need to take care of a few things because if you don't, they'll probably come up and you'll deal with them later.

1) Transmission - Consider upgrading Trap door to Jims Billet now, eventually you'll pull the inner ring out of the trap door bearing or crack the inner casting, it wasn't made for the pressures you'll see as a result of Item 2
Also cut off or pull off the innerprimary main shaft inner race bearing on the main shaft, it's going to walk either into the primary or into the trans busting the main gear bearing seal. Zippers Performance makes a one piece rear primary mainshaft bearing replacement and seal that will eliminate the two piece hd bearing. Don't do it and prepare to pull the tranny apart later anyway...


2) Clutch, - stock clutch plates will burn up in no time. You can run SE, dumping the center springpack plate from 97 and a VPC, or, JMO the best bet is a Rivera Pro clutch (stock feel racing grip) with the gold spring, the added pressure from the clutch and motor will help cause #1 to happen..


3) Be sure to run the 3.37 gears in the primary not the stock 3.15 ratio, too low on RPM, strokers don't like lumpety lumpety idle crusing, hard on the bottom end, the 3.37 will help with that only a couple hundred more RPM but acceleration will improve as will driveability.

4) Rear swingarm and belt, We eventually replaced it all because the swingarm gave out and cracked at the adjuster The bike with all that power can make the swingarm a bit squiggly in corners and acceleration.
The stock HD bits are not very good from 97 and I'd bet you haven't upgraded the cleve blocks or rubber bushings anyway.

So either replace the rubber gromments on each end of the swing arm pivot shaft with the new design (three rings) or, consider getting a replacement late model swingarm, fatbaggersinc.com sells the swingarm, axle with spacers and they have a replacement billet cleve block machined to fit the smaller swingarm pivot bolt on your model.

This means the swingarm really fits better, has stronger material and you can run a narrow belt ie wider tire if you choose. You can also dump that big azzed brake for a new bolt on twin cam brake with dual pistons so you can stop. In short you upgrade the whole rear.

5) front brakes - if you don't upgrade the calipers to dual piston you'll find the stock brakes are well... waaaay undercapable of stopping an 800 pound 120 hp bike. Remember not only will you be able to get to 70 mph, twice as fast you'll need to stop that sucker. Hawg Halters makes a good set and LRB Z pads are a good idea.

6) Cranes ignition boost starter relay which provides direct power to the coil on starting will help with the motor firing up.

7) Speaking of item6 consider upgrading your starter to an All Balls Starter and All Balls one piece starter jackshaft. - Lifetime warranty on both. Also to help start the big motor change the ring gear on the clutch basket to a Compufire 1084 Ring Gear set

You can pop that motor in and run around but eventually over a year, you are going to start on this list LOL...

Shop around for good prices, California Phil is a shop with low prices same for Amy and Bill at Bishop's Performance - Parts & Service for Harley Davidson, Buell, and other American V-Twins.

[chucktx]

great advise hrk........... thanks for posting that up. a lot of folks that upgrade their engines dont think about the rest of the machine, and the wear and pressures they will inflict on it. taking care of these problems from the start will assure long life and safer life!!!!!!

[hotroadking]

No problemo

First thing he needs to do after putting that motor in or before is upgrade the brakes and pads.

If you can go faster you need to be able to stop.

Forgot I'd update the motormount up front as well and change out the heim joints for the motor top and front, also those rubber donuts on the rear swingarm are part of the mounting system for the motor/trans unit,

he best replace them as well or it's gonna be real interesting under hard throttle.

You just can't drop a motor twice as big in and expect the rest to keep up, think about dropping a big block chevy 502 into a malibu that had a straight 6 and what you'd need to do, about the same thing...

[hdhotrod]

I have already begun this process. I put in a Rev Tech 6 speed (I know it's not the best, but I can't afford a Baker right now)and I installed a Pro Clutch a couple of years ago. It is an excellent clutch! I planned on rebuilding the swing arm bushings and upgrading the front motor mount during the swap. I have almost 70,000 rounds on the rear belt but it will get an 1 1/2" replacement. I run police "Run Flat" tires and I can only get stock size.

As far as the starter, this motor only has 9.5 pistons, compression releases, and 60 degrees overlap in the cam so I don't expect it to be too hard to start. ( I can't believe that cam has 60 degrees overlap but that what it says .608 lift 274 dur.)

This bike did it's first 6,000 miles with the Houston Police Dept. I'll have to look at the primary ratio, not sure what it is. Judging by that cam, this motor likes to run up top.

The inner primary bearing issue is new to me but I'll get with Zippers. I have a catalog.

I really appreciate the time you took to write this list down and your experience shows through. I may be contacting you in the future with questions.

My plan is to replace or upgrade all the hard to get at parts during the swap. I've wanted new brakes for awhile but they didn't get through the budget cuts this round. I'm not a real thrasher anyway. I want the pull for the highway and to satisify my "more is better" horsepower addiction.

Again, thanks for the info. It's always nice to hear from another gearhead.

[hotroadking]

No problem

JMO, Upgrade the brakes by either getting Hawg Halters online shop around or maybe find a set of twin cam front calipers and adapt them to your forks, you may have to make up a bracket to do so, or, you'll have to swap the lowers for TC lowers, and then you'll have to change the front axle (larger) but you might be able to keep your wheel, just swap bearings for a different size and spacer.

As for the rear, at $220 the FBI rear swing arm is a deal, you'll get a like new take off from one of the swaps they do at shows, the new axle (bigger and the simple cam adjuster system, much better) new cleve blocks that are solid, it' a major improvement over what you have now. We got a rear stock HD brake caliper for a TC that will fit on the swingarm for $30 just stuck new pads in it, and same for a rotor and wheel, just found some take offs from a newer bike.

As for the belt, if you do the rear swap like I'm saying and run the later model wheel like a RK Custom wheel (I run one on my softail, doug on his RK) you get a solid disk, spokes are not wise on a 114 think twisted spokes and ripped out hub when it hooks and rips it apart. All these parts are ebay, swap meet specials, don't pay big bucks for new, I gave Doug the rear wheel and brake rotor, so he has about $300 in the swap including swingarm, new rubber grommets, pads etc. It will hook right up to your brake line and shocks. Oh yeah we found some used rear air shocks for free barely used on another board.

At minimum replace all the mounting points for the trans, swingarm and motor, it will save you big time.


Gearheads have to stick together....

[hdhotrod]

I really appreciate all the info.

Since you have been through this, I have some questions. I still need to select a carb. The manual says either an S&S G or a Mikuni 48. I was looking for a Mik 48 since I am currently running a Mik 42 so I figured it’s an easy swap with cables but I only get about 34-35 mpg now. My current 80” motor has a Woods W-6 cam (.590 lift 240 duration) and SE 10.2 pistons but other than that it’s mostly stock. How would you compare the Mik 48 to the G? Which one are you running? What’s your mileage? Will the cables swap from the Mikuni to the S&S? The new motor has an S&S G manifold on it. I kmow that if someone is putting a 114” motor in, mileage can’t be the biggest concern, but I’d like to know what to expect. The S&S is substantially cheaper and far more plentiful on ebay.

Thanks,
Rick

[HarleysLR]

I have never built a motor as big as the one you are working on but I would try a 44 CV carb, they are just hard to beat tuneability wise. Now that I have brought it up maybe someone else can join in that has used a 44 CV.
I have used S&S and Miks' and don't really care for either one. Fuel mileage really sucks with them. Same bike same motor S&S was 25% less mileage than a CV. JMO

[hdhotrod]

I actually like the CV carbs but HD makes a 51mm and Carl's makes the Typhoon but both are $600 to $1000. Maybe someday but not now. A 44mm just won't flow enough.

[hotroadking]

You might be suprised how well a CV44 works on a large engine.

the CV 51 out of the box was very good on my 116, and it works well on the 124. I could always drop on a Super D but unless I run a drag strip it's not fun on the street.

I would get a cv 51 off ebay before I put on the Mik.

If you already have an intake for a Super G then I'd look for one.

Drill out the air bleed to be adjustable, so you can change the pilot to main transistion timing, and pop on a Thunderjet. It will make the G easier to tune and better running.

[hdhotrod]

Originally Posted by hotroadking

You might be suprised how well a CV44 works on a large engine.

the CV 51 out of the box was very good on my 116, and it works well on the 124. I could always drop on a Super D but unless I run a drag strip it's not fun on the street.

I would get a cv 51 off ebay before I put on the Mik.

If you already have an intake for a Super G then I'd look for one.

Drill out the air bleed to be adjustable, so you can change the pilot to main transistion timing, and pop on a Thunderjet. It will make the G easier to tune and better running.

I scored a SE 51mm Super Bore carb and I bought an adapter to convert the G manifold to it but this thing sticks out several inches past the nose cone. (adapter adds about an inch) No room for my leg so that dog won't hunt! I removed the G manifold to see if the SE manifold that comes with the carb kit will fit but the ports on the SE manifold are 1 5/8" and the intake ports on the head are 1 3/4". The SE runner will literally fit inside the port.

Question is what do you have for a manifold on your 124? Is there a SE manifold with 1 3/4" runners or do you have the smaller ports? I'd rather run this carb but I may just go to a G unless you have a solution.

-Rick