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Feb 2nd, 2009, 03:49 PM
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#1 | | Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 8 Model: '08 Softail Custom Interests: riding & fishing Occupation: Selling my opinion to folks that used to get it for free :)
| What next Looking for input on what the next common sense power upgrade is for my ride. '08 Softail Custom, stock 96 inch, V&H Big Radius, SE Heavy Breather, PC III, Dyno Tuned and making 79 Max HP and somewhere around 90 Ft/Lbs (I think...don't have the chart in front of me). I'm looking for more low to mid range oomph without destroying highway cruising performance if that's possible. I've read all the posts on cams and tradeoffs and compromises enough to be confused to the point of leaving the bike alone...but who wants to do that? Open for suggestions. |
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Feb 2nd, 2009, 05:40 PM
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#2 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 753 Model: '95, '00 Sportsters Interests: Racing & Land-Speed-Record events in particular Occupation: Semi-retired independent contractor (varied fields)
| Quote:
Originally Posted by mwestman . . . I'm looking for more low to mid range oomph without destroying highway cruising performance if that's possible. I've read all the posts on cams and tradeoffs and compromises enough to be confused to the point of leaving the bike alone...but who wants to do that? | Although H-D has a general idea of what type of rider will buy which type bike, they really don't know what the buyer is going to do with it, so they try to make 'em work the best over the widest range of conditions - stoplight-to-stoplight, interstate cruising, etc. But that involves compromise too, since you have to give away max HP & torque in any given rpm range to get the widest & smoothest powerband.
You can always get more power in any given rpm range - but @ the cost of power elsewhere, so the question is, what's most important to you? Willing to give a way some top-end HP for more low-end "oomph"? If you don't run the bike @ higher rpms anyway, the answer is probably yes. But if you ride under widely varied conditions, you may want to leave the cams alone.
And there's more power to be found in the heads than anywhere else - given the choice cams or head work but not both, I'll take head work every time. There you can increase power over the entire rpm range instead of just targeting one range, which is what aftermarket cams do. |
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Feb 3rd, 2009, 05:10 AM
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#3 | | 200+ posts and climbing
Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: NW Iowa
Posts: 366 Model: 2005 road king Interests: shooting and motorcycling Occupation: diesel mechanic
| Put in some Andrews 26 and you will have more power in bottom to mid range and they wont start falling off until over 100 so your highway speeds will be fine, If you are also going to do headwork then maybe HQ 500 would be a better choice, If you are also going to raise the compression a woods 6 would also be a good choice, Todd
__________________ Its peanut butter jelly time
2005 Road King
Fullsac True Duals
2 " Porker Slip Ons with Baffles
Arlen Ness Big Sucker
Zippers Thundermax with auto tune
Andrews Roller Chain Conversion with HQ 0034n cams
SE Adjustable Pushrods |
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Feb 3rd, 2009, 08:16 AM
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#4 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,091
| Actually woods new 6-6 cam doesn't need any compression changes but it will like them.
Put it in a 07 Street Glide and the bike just jumps off the line and pulls hard, like it should have from the factory, walked away easy from a stage 1 07 Ultra.
Both were tuned bikes as well, using Daytona Twin Scan system and HDSERT.
I would go the woods 6-6, it's bolt in, all you need are HD's timesaver pushrods a couple of gaskets and some time.
Tuning will help too.
__________________ 00 Heritage S&S 124 |
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Feb 5th, 2009, 09:19 AM
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#5 | | Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 8 Model: '08 Softail Custom Interests: riding & fishing Occupation: Selling my opinion to folks that used to get it for free :)
| OK, a few more details: I looked at my charts again and I am making 78.7 max HP and 92.7 max ft/lbs. I want the signature "lumpy" sound at idle that is expected of performance cams. Most of my riding is bar hopping and beating my buds to the next red light. On rare occasions I'll hit I-10 to go to New Orleans or Pensacola, but I stay around 75-80 mph max since I have no windshield  I spoke with a reputable wrench turner here that suggested Andrews 37G gear driven cams and a dyno run to get me what I am looking for. He explained the 37G cams would work well without sending the heads off somewhere to be "worked", and I would experience a noticeable difference in the 2000-5500 rpm range. So...sould like a plan, or am I missing something? Thanks in advance for your answers...Mike |
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Feb 5th, 2009, 11:05 AM
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#6 | | 200+ posts and climbing
Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: NW Iowa
Posts: 366 Model: 2005 road king Interests: shooting and motorcycling Occupation: diesel mechanic
| At that rpm you would be right in the 26s sweet spot, I think if you are not going to do the heads with increased compression the 37s and also the woods 6 might be a little soft on the bottom end, granted they will work without doing the heads but not like they could, also if you arent going to increase the compression you may also consider andrews 21, they have the lopey idle and all sorts of low end torque, they drop off at about 5000 but they are extremely strong up to that point, I actually think they are stronger than the 26's, but do not like increased compression so if you decide to do that later they may not be for you, todd
__________________ Its peanut butter jelly time
2005 Road King
Fullsac True Duals
2 " Porker Slip Ons with Baffles
Arlen Ness Big Sucker
Zippers Thundermax with auto tune
Andrews Roller Chain Conversion with HQ 0034n cams
SE Adjustable Pushrods |
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Feb 5th, 2009, 02:48 PM
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#7 | | Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 8 Model: '08 Softail Custom Interests: riding & fishing Occupation: Selling my opinion to folks that used to get it for free :)
| Sweet! Thanks for the input. Any truth to aftermarket cams voiding the HD warranty? I heard that from the local ripoff artist today. |
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Feb 5th, 2009, 03:26 PM
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#8 | | 200+ posts and climbing
Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: NW Iowa
Posts: 366 Model: 2005 road king Interests: shooting and motorcycling Occupation: diesel mechanic
| as to the question about voiding the warranty, I think that is up to the dealer, if you buy alot of stuff from them they would probably take care of you but if they wanted to they could probably deny it, Todd
__________________ Its peanut butter jelly time
2005 Road King
Fullsac True Duals
2 " Porker Slip Ons with Baffles
Arlen Ness Big Sucker
Zippers Thundermax with auto tune
Andrews Roller Chain Conversion with HQ 0034n cams
SE Adjustable Pushrods |
| |
Feb 5th, 2009, 09:43 PM
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#9 | | 200+ posts and climbing
Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 255 Model: 2005 RoadGlide, 1996 RoadKing, 2005 Delu Interests: Motorcycles, Grandkids Occupation: HD Service Tech
| To answer the warrenty voiding, if you are within the 2 year warrenty, the dealer is able to fudge things so you get covered. If you are under the extended service plan, CNA sends out inspectors to check failures, take pictures and with the economy pinch in full swing, deny anything possible. Saw a cam plate on an '03 bagger eat the front cam bearing and basically screw the whole bottom end. The engine had 211 cams that surely didn't cause the bearing to disintegrate but that was the excuse to deny the claim.
__________________ Life may not be the party we hoped for,
but while we're here let's ride.... |
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Feb 6th, 2009, 10:57 AM
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#10 | | Has posted 500+
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,091
| As to warranty the install of the cams and the cams themselves cannot void the warranty, if something fails it has to be proven that the aftermarket part caused the failure.
Say you put in whozit's cams and you end up with a failed tranny, obviously the cam had nothing to do with it and cannot be the basis for the claim.
However you put in a cam and the cam bearing goes out, causing damage and requires a bottom end rebuild, the question would be, what caused the bearing to fail, the cam, the install, bad bearing? That could be denied by the dealer, you can appeal to the factory rep. But you'd have a harder time, they could say the installtion of aftermarket cams caused the problem that failed therefore no warranty and probably be fine with it.
As to cams, there is no need to do head work to get more bottom end from the 6-6 woods it will provide what you want now without head work, I've done it and it works.
As to the 37's, they require more compression to work properly, the 21 or 26 andrews would be a better choice, the 37's will increase power but not to the level they should without more compression, the woods as well would love more compression but then again, bobby woods says there is no such thing as too much compression...
On the street the 6-6 or 26 Andrews or 510 SNS would be fine.
__________________ 00 Heritage S&S 124 |
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Feb 6th, 2009, 03:16 PM
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#11 | | 200+ posts and climbing
Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: NW Iowa
Posts: 366 Model: 2005 road king Interests: shooting and motorcycling Occupation: diesel mechanic
| dont forget the hq tc 500 for a cam choice, also the andrews cams will be 150 less dollars than the woods, Todd
__________________ Its peanut butter jelly time
2005 Road King
Fullsac True Duals
2 " Porker Slip Ons with Baffles
Arlen Ness Big Sucker
Zippers Thundermax with auto tune
Andrews Roller Chain Conversion with HQ 0034n cams
SE Adjustable Pushrods |
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