[ratz]

For my 05' FXST, I have aquired my new Wild 1 Chubby T-Bars, SS throttle-idle-clutch cables and front brake line, grips, mirrors, bushings and chrome master cylinder - levers - clamp halves, etc. Getting ready to take her down for the swap in another week or two. Got any tips or pointers to make things easier or smoother? I expect to be taking the tank off to get at the wiring, and am under the impression the front brakes will be a pain to bleed as well. Just looking for any tidbits of wisdom that other's have learned along the way..........Thanks, and wish me luck - I have all winter.

[Silverbullet]

I used a piece of old jewelry chain my wife had laying around to run the wires inside the bars. just tape the wires to the chain, drop the chain inside the bar and let gravity drop the chain where you need it to go. Then pull the chain slowly thru the bars,pulling the attached wires with it. Didn't take 5 minutes for me to run the wires. The rest of it is basic r/r work.

[fatboyvtwin]

One thing to keep in mind is when your running the internal wiring, make sure that the holes that the wires will be going thru have no sharp edges. I had that problem on my 1998 Fatboy, so when I tightened the clamps down for the brake and clutch the edges cut into the wiring. If there is a sharp edge, use a dromel tool and grind the holes out. Also look back in the archives here, and there you will find easy ways to bleed the brakes. Ride Safe, David.

[ratz]

Good tips fellas, thanks! I have the shop manual, so getting the tank off should be no problem. And, I have changed out grips, clamp halves, levers, etc. in the past. Basically, running the wiring and installing a new master cylinder + installing the new cables will be firsts for me. I figure to worry about bleeding the brakes later - I'll concentrate on that afterwards. Plenty of time left this winter.......

[wmiconi]

Originally Posted by ratz

For my 05' FXST, I have aquired my new Wild 1 Chubby T-Bars, SS throttle-idle-clutch cables and front brake line, grips, mirrors, bushings and chrome master cylinder - levers - clamp halves, etc. Getting ready to take her down for the swap in another week or two. Got any tips or pointers to make things easier or smoother? I expect to be taking the tank off to get at the wiring, and am under the impression the front brakes will be a pain to bleed as well. Just looking for any tidbits of wisdom that other's have learned along the way..........Thanks, and wish me luck - I have all winter.

Hey RATZ,
What did the parts run you. I am looking to this on my 05 FXSTI. The parts guys want me to get the install done at the Harley dealer and won't help out a new guy like myself with the parts and needs for this project. I don't want to spend 300 hundred on labor!!
My FXST is black how about you?

Warren

[ratz]

Yeah, mine is black also. I originally ordered a black FXST "Carb" bike, but then was getting antsy with the wait, so I jumped on a FI version when it came in to the same dealership about 2 months earlier than mine was due in. Cost me $400 more, but I am loving it! The parts I have for the front end are all non-HD parts, and have ran about $700-$800 total (so far). Scary, huh? If you buy the equivalent through the dealer, you'll be paying more though. And, cheaper parts are out there still, it's just a matter of what you're into. I have been collecting for about 4 1/2 months, working OT here and there as I go. The dealership wanted $400 to install my bars and parts here. So, the shop manual and bike lift was purchased instead - now I'll be doing it - and still coming out ahead.

[hotroadking]

Not rocket science but it requires a stay at a holiday inn express LOL

You need to measure the run for the cables, you need to make sure they wire will be more than long enough to fit through the bars.


1) Run a piece of string through the bars, I use a small washer something round so it won't jam, and use gravity to feed the wire back from the exit to the end of the bar where the wires come through, do both sides and have enough string to pull it through.

2) Remove old bars, cables, wires from connectors, you may not have to remove the tank, put a towel over the front rocker cover and remove the bolts holding the tank to the frame, then wiggle the tank loose and move it back, remove the choke cable from it's mount it will give you more room.


3) Disconnect wire harness from main harness, should be two connectors one each side, dark grey on right light grey on left. If you have a SM great if not you need to write down the colors to the number pin on each one.

4) Remove the Deustch end connector by prying up with a small screwdriver I have one of those sears/kmart/wally world sets for glasses etc. Inside you'll see 6 pins, gently pry back to the center the retaining clip on each, gently pulling down on the wire, you will see the metal connector slip back, do this on each wire (don't forget your schematic color to pin number) Remove the wires from the rubber insulator on the back of the connector. Put connector parts where you can find them later.

5) Remove black plastic covering on the wire up to about 6 inches from the switch ends, this gives you protection around the wires where they go through the bars.

6) Tie off the string to the group of wires (6 each side) and gently push and pull the wires through. With T bars the wires will come out on the proper side, with a solid single bar you will have to use a small screw driver or some tool to help them out the correct hole.

7) If the wires are not long enought to fit throug the bars you will need to extend them first, if they fit through then you can test fit to see if they need to be extended. If so cut them each at intervals so you can stack the inserted peices so the sodler joints are staggered. If you have to extend them before they go through the bars you really need to stagger them so it doesn't jam in the bar. Cut the ends off and solder in a black wire 16 guage I believe and heat shrink the joints. You need to do a butt joint so the wire extends normally, twist together and solder then heat shrink. Put the original color coded tips you cut off back on the wires so the ends that go into the connector are easily identified. 6 Wires, one cut two solder joints = 12 joints per side. Measure from the end of the wires to the connectors and add about 1 inch, so if you need 4 inches I go to five, better to have a little extra.

8) Use the cut off black covers to cover the wires coming out from the bars down to about a inch from the connector. PUt the connector back on in the proper order and reconnect to harness.


9) reassemble bars, cables, throttle etc.

Measure everything up first so you know if you need to cut and splice and how much. It's easier to splice and cut before hand, however if you have to pull it though it makes it a bit tougher to pull through so stagger the joints as far as possible.

[ratz]

Great detail, and thanks for taking the time! Should be a big help to alot of us. As for my bars, they are a fairly common upgrade and from everyone I have talked to, my wires and cables will not have to be extended. That's a plus. So, thanks again, and in another 2 weeks, she should be done.

[goliath]

Gravity is good but air pressure is better. Tape up all the holes but the ones you want your wires to enter and exit. Get some kite string and tie a knot about a 1/4 inch in one end. Drop it in one of the untaped holes. Shoot compressed air in the same end and the string will magically shoot out the other hole. Tape your wires to the string and pull thru same way.

WOrks every time.

[VYBR8R]

Take a look in your manual and you will see how to remove the pins from your plugs. Even if you do not have to extend your wiring harnes you will still have to remove the plugs. I use a fine sharpie to mark the plug for wire colors prior to removing the pins. Good luck, you will find out why the dealer is charging four hours to do a set of bars with internal wiring. They aren't out there to steal your money, they run a business and have to charge for the services provided.

[hotroadking]

I should have also said it's not a 20 minute job, takes several hours to do it correctly.

[ratz]

The dealership quoted me 5 hrs @ $80 an hour (shop rate). I have made no qualms of the dealership. I understand they have overhead, and wages to pay. I don't think it is a 5 hour job for them though, because they do it so often. But again, they stay busy and are not hurting for business and it should be their right to charge whatever they want, and the customer's job to go elsewhere if they want to. I can have a local Indy shop do it for half that cost, but I don't want to pack my bike to them, and pack it back in the snow/rain, etc. Regardless I do expect to take my time and if the bike is on the stand for 2-3 days, not a problem. It's the middle of winter anyway. I'm adding chrome rocker box covers and push rod tubes/bases at the same time, so I am prepared to take the tank off and not be rushed. I have read the manual through a few times, asked questions, listened to advice, and I expect to have a good time wrenching on the bike. May even pick up some business myself if all goes well.................Lot's of guy's that I work with won't even touch this.

[VYBR8R]

There is a good tool to add to your collection to do the brake bleeding, a Mighty Vac. This hand held pump will cut the time to bleed the system ro about 10 minutes and they aren't very expensive if you buy the plastic model (around $30). It will do for the hobbyist. For those folks that have 2005 dressers, watch out for the brake fluid, they use DOT4 fluid which can also be used as paint stripper. Don't know if DP sells these, if not it might be something to add to the inventory.

[GOTAFATTY?]

I installed a set of Wild 1 Chubbys that are a drag bar with integrated risers. Well, to run the wires internally and make the 90 degree turn down the riser, I used a piece of thin trimmer line. It worked great since it is fairly ridgid, and has a curve in it from being in a spool. You just direct the curved end toward the bend you want to make and it comes through. Easy Peasy.