[kwalker]

Have a 04 Fatboy with 2k miles and am anticipating switching to a synthetic oil. Have read several articles about the HD syn3 and also Amsoil synthetic. Anyone have any suggestions, pros, cons, dont give a rats a** ect. Also.....if I read the articles correctly, you can use SYN3 or the Amsoil syn in the engine, primary, and tranny. Is that correct?

[Sleepy]

I'm using the syn3 in my 04 E-G. you use this stuff in the engine, tranny and primary. I'm not sure if it's any better than the other brands or types of lubricants but it is nice when you're out on the road. I just carry one bottle of syn3 instead of oil ,tranny, and primary fluid. 999 times out of 1000 you don't need to add oil between changes but there's always that one time.

[bxbutch]

i use syn3 in my road king i used to use mobil1 which also makes a syn3 both perform fine & the mobil1 techs tell me they are compatible you have to be careful about mixing synthetic oils

[SISK]

I've ran synthetic in my '03 Heritage from the first day I brought it home, and I've been very pleased. I started with the HD Syn3, but I've since changed to Amsoil. Yes, you can run the synthetic in all 3 cases (engine, Trans, Primary), I currently run the Amsoil 20/50 in all 3 and haven't had any problem, but on the next change I intend to put the Amsoil gear lube in the tranny.

I've been very pleased with synthetic and don't intend to go back to dino oils. Everytime I check the oil, it is a nice amber color and it's never smelled burnt. In my experience with the dino oils, it dosen't take long for the oil to turn black and smell burnt and dirty. I've been so happy with the synthetic in my bike, that I've switched my cars to Amsoil too.

When I switched my cars to Amsoil, I flushed the engine with a bottle of the Amsoil engine flush, and I'd use it to flush my bike engine too if I were changing from oil to synthetic.

Good Luck, and don't forget - It's Valentines day! (do somthing nice for your bike)

SISK

Red meat isn't bad for you - fuzzy green meat is!

[Killer-B]

I have always run Harley oil in my bikes and have never been disappointed, it holds up much better than other oils. With that said, I too plan on switching to HD syn3 after my new ride is broken-in. I was told you should break in new motors with regular oil. Is this more right than wrong, or, more wrong than right???

[Breeze]

I have heard the same recommendtion regarding break-in with dino oil and then converting to syn with respect to V-twins. I used to hear just the opposite with cars... start with syn and stay with it. Having worked for an oil and gas company in a previous life my guess is that these people are assuming that friction is significantly reduced with the syn and the engine may not properly break in. During break-in you are actually depending on some wear to occur at the piston rings which causes the rings to make a tighter seal against the cylinder wall. I haven't performed an indepth comparison of dino oils to syn but there could be a certain amount of truth to this line of reasoning.

Breeze

[tinsin]

I've switched to Mobil 1 V-Twin oil on my '01 FXDL. It carries more of the minerals needed for an air cooled than dino oil. As for the dif between the Company's syn oil, Amsoil, or Mobil 1, you'd probably be able to get a spec sheet on additives each has and make a determination. I'm sure all live up to the task of doing what they're supposed to do. In the April 2000 mag of American Iron, there's a good article regarding syn oils v. dino. If you'd like, I can e-mail a scan of the articles to you. I'm very happy with Mobil1.

[hotroadking]

LOL on HTT this thread would get the dreaded BOID LOL

OK www.bobistheoilguy.com is a board dedicated to the discussion of all things lubrificiacal LOL There is a specific motorcycle forum, lots of good knowledge over there.

The general consensus is synthetic is the better oil all around but dyno's fine, as long as you change at 5K then you should be fine either way, however, because we have invested good money in our machines we should consider the best oil possible for the maximum lubrication.

Synthetic isn't more slippery, bearings don't 'skate" all the crap that has been spread in the past is that, crap. What Syn oil does is hold it's properties longer and better than dyno, so in an air cooled motor you really benefit from syn oil because when the motor does hot parade, main street or just plain hot summer duty, the syn oil is going to protect better at the higher temps especially over time than the dyno. So you're treating the motor better.

I've torn my motor down so many times to upgrade stuff and with the syn oil I see almost no carbon deposits, no scores on the walls, everthing looks brand new. In fact the guy that bought my 95 heads, pistons, rings, cams and cylinders said they looked new at 20K.

As for the "V-Twin" brand oils, they are all similar however there are threads about Syn3 not doing as well in the trans but again that could be rumor. I have run it in my 95 and the motor sounded louder, and shifted rougher with the syn3.

I prefer

Amsoil Gear Oil Synthetic or Bel-Ray Semi Syn Gear oil
HD Semi Syn in the primary (don't need syn 3)
Mobil 1 Red Cap 15W-50 Automotive Synthetic in the motor.

There have been several independent tests of Mobil1 V-twin and Mobil-1 auto Red cap, and the difference was in the parts per million on only a few areas, in fact more in the automotive in a few categories. So if you think you're being bent over the counter on $8 a qt oil for a sticker, well, you may just be right.

I could point you to sites where guys have been running Mobil1 auto in v-twins for years and no problems.

So, save the $8 a qt for HD Syn3 (funny how HD discouraged SYN oils until they could get a contract and charge out the wazzo huh? now it's suddenly OK?) and get the Mobil1 Red cap at Wally World, you can also get a Fram Filter at wally world for half the price of the HD twin cam filter and in chrome!

Whatever you do, just change it often.

[kwalker]

Thanks for all the good info fellas. I'm gonna take your advice and switch to a syn (brand yet to be determined) in the engine and primary but will probably go to a syn gear oil in the tranny. This forum is great and I appreciate info from guys who have thousands of miles in the saddle.

[Killer-B]

I love Wally World.

[Seahag]

I too run the Mobil 1 15W-50 "red cap automotive" oil. I get it in 5 qt containers at Wally World for $19.96. Works great for me...especially on cooler mornings in spring and fall when a slightly thinner (15w vs. 20w) oil helps with cold starts. It still protects like a 50W after all. There is supposed to be more Molybedenum in the automotive formula too...which is good for reducing wear. I have heard, however, and follow the recomendation not to use the red cap oil in the primary due to the extra moly messing up the clutch operation...causing it to slip.

I would not recommend using the 20W-50 weight syn oils in the TRANNY! I've read too many posts like this one (with pictures):
http://groups.msn.com/harleytechtalk...10106542075803
(This forum automatically takes you to the latest posts...so click on "First" to start reading from the beginning)

I never understood what the big deal in being able to use the same fluid for all compartments is anyway. If thats the way Harley really wanted it, they could have designed the motors with a common sump like the jap bikes. Does it really take more effort to walk to the next isle at the parts store and grab a quart of gear lube? As I see it, in an emergency I can use the 20W-50 motor oil in any compartment if I should find it low....but as I've never found the levels in the tranny or primary to drop in between changes; I only need to keep a bottle of motor oil in the saddlebag...thats the only thing getting topped off anyway.

HRK...LOL...So thats what they call the osterich....BOID