[voodoo1]

ok taking the 02 wide glide to a local shop in town.
Carb/stage one only upgrade and the slips on.
the heads a coming off and gonna have it ported and polished.

1. when back together what will I be around hp/tq guestimations
2. any need to change out jug gaskets? some say no but hey I am there should I?
3 head bolts?
4. any timing problems afterwards?
all I am trying to accomplish is better flow,les effort but hey any pickup in power is cool.
4. think it will get closer to 1hp per cubic inch?
should'nt that that be pretty much a natural thing without buying a buttload of performance parts and basically building another bike?

comments?

[Seahag]

First of all I'd like to qualify my statements as being from a hobby wrencher/rider...not a professional. I also have not been doing this nearly as long as CD and HRK. With that in mind I will answer your questions to the best of my ability in order.

1. This is dependant on what kind of port job you get done. Ideally you'd be getting aftermarket cams and having a reputable porter optimizing his porting job for the cam selection. Too large of valves and you slow the velocity at which the charge enters the engine reducing cyllinder fill = less power. Too small of valves with a high lift cam can also adversely affect the power. This is why the off the shelf ported heads do not necessarily make the best gains...Everything should optimally work together. Hopefully you've picked someone who understands this. With stock cams, 88" with stage one breather and pipes, I would guess you could see as much as 80 HP and around 85 lb/ft of torque. I base that on my father in laws build which initially was 88" with SE 204 cams, SE performance heads, SE touring slipons, and Ness big sucker...with dynojet kitted carb. This set up got him 75 HP and 95 lb/ft of torque....and the 204 is not a very agressive cam. Hopefully the guys with more dyno time can comfirm or correct my guestimates.

2. Depending on whether your porter mills some of the head face off to raise your compression, you may choose to use the .03" cometics. The metal material is superior to the metal impregnated felt of the stock gaskets (I don't know for sure if that is what stock is made of...but that is what it looked like to me) Raising your compression will help with low end torque performance...and is safe up to the 10 to 1 ratio. Above that, you need longer duration cams and possibly compression releases to control knock.

3. There are two schools on the replacement of cyllinder studs....Some say you should definately replace them with atleast new stock units to prevent possible breakage due to the studs having stretched slightly when torqued initially. However, many, many builders feel it is an unecessary expenditure and do not do it unless going to a high compression build. My local HD dealer even told me they do not replace the stock studs when doing a big bore. As far as the mating head bolts, go ahead and reuse them or get chrome/stainless replacements if looks are of primary interest.

4. It will definately come closer. In the upper rpm ranges the stock heads cannot keep up with the flow demands and is much like a heavy smoker trying to run a 4 minute mile. With improved head flow you will get more fuel and air into the cyllinder before the valve closes. Down in the lower rpm range the difference might not be so noticeable.

Hope this helps. I was a rookie four years ago, but I've done 99% of all my own work...and there probably aren't many people who are as voracious a reader as I am when it comes to this stuff. Someday I wanna be just like my heros CD and HRK

[VYBR8R]

If you are only changing your carb/aircleaner and installing slipons you will not see alot of gain by porting and polishing your heads. You would actually see more gain by changing your cams to something that gets good low to midrange torque. For what you have said you want to do I really don't think you will see over 75 to 78 HP and possibly 80 to 82 ftlbs of torque. Put in a good cam and you can see over 80 HP and 88+ ftlbs of torque. Then add the headwork and it goes up to the magic 1HP per inch of displacement. What carb are you thinking of installing? Properly jetted and tuned the stock CV40 is just fine for an 88 inch motor.

[hotroadking]

You can make some power with the 88 and a good head porting, however you really need to change the cams. Kuryakyns tc-2g cams are getting pretty good reviews with a lot of bagger builds on a few sites plus you end up with gear drive which is good.

Polishing is a term that is over or improperly used. You really don't need to polish anything, the intake tract should be left rough to help disburse the air fuel mix.

My guess is if you're spending $500 or more for the head work, you should have the manifold done at the same time, I would consider a cv44 big bore manifold and carb, a set of cams, and frankly go for the big bore, have the cylinders bored out and drop in some 10 to 1 pistons or higher. I think Kuryakyn has some pistons to match up. CD should be able to set you up with the whole deal.

Then you'll see some serious gains thing being once you have the tank and heads off , you're only a set of pistons, some $125 machine work and a set of gaskets away from a 95 inch motor, save the labor costs and do it then.

If it's a budget thing then start with buying the parts first then do all the machine and assembly at one time. These motors respond well to complete package changes.

Base gaskets shouldn't need to be changed.

[CD]

All of the above comments are spot on. Head work without increasing the 'pumps' capabilites with a cam change will not do much.

HRK mentions polishing being misused....Some cleanup can be done but, unless you change the cams why bother?

Getting one hp per cube is not as relevant as getting the max torque for your combination. Torque does the work, HP is a number derived from torque. Torque is the player here.

You can easily get the desired results with the right head, cams and exhaust.

Goes back to what HRK and many of us have said before.
Budget
Desired end result
Combination---rebudget and allocate
Make sure you have the right parts including exhaust as it all has to work together.
Not a big enough budget? Do one piece at a time and stick to the design.

[voodoo1]

sounds good
the Machine work is free,("pops" own a very sweet machine shop)
the torque is the way always to me too, thanks for the cam info,that was something I was not sure about(if the stock had anything more to give)
Really did not plan on getting into the bore and pistons but sounds like that is the natural way the thing should run anyways from the get go.(daNG WILLIE DAVIDSON AGAIN!!)
I'll check the CD goodies page, do ya sell a set up like this as a "kit" I know all the parts might not come from same supplier but maybe a "CD set up"?
I'll look and cal in one day next week. Thanks to all!!!!

[hotroadking]

Order your Kuryakyn cams and pistons from CD, then when you get the big bore pistons, can "pop" machine out your existing cylinders? If he has a machine shop I'm sure he can bore and hone the existing cylinders, then your only cost are the cams, pistons and gaskets.

I would get a set of pushrods too, timesavers so you can change things out easily in the future should you decide.

TC-2g cams
10 to 1 pistons or thereabouts
Pushrods
gasket kit

Misc fluids and lubes.

You will need to have some special tools to do the work, hopefully pops has those or can come up with something that will work as far as bearing puller/press and the tools to lock the cams and relieve the tensioners.

The Gear drive cams are more expensive but they eliminate the slop, chains and tensioners. If you want to save the $ get the tc-1 kuryakyn cams they have a chain drive, or andrews tw-26a or tw-37B cams non gear drive, it will save you $300.

All in all with the freebee value

Pistons $250
Cams $250
Cam Gears $250
Gaskets n such $100

You are looking at under $1000 for big bore

Now you need an ignition either a Powercommander USB for EFI or a Daytona Twin Tech or Crane HI-4TC for a Carb bike.