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2005 Twin Cam Tensioners Replacement

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by Marc1340, May 16, 2016.

  1. Marc1340

    Marc1340 Active Member

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    Hi All
    OK so I am about to dig in to check the Cam Tensioners on a 2005 Road King for a friend. I have replaced my Cam and pushrods on my 1340 1996 Road king so does not look that much harder.
    Just wondered who has done it and did you use the Jim's tool unload the spring pressure and remove the tensioners? While we are just checking the friends bike he wants to replace them and Would you cut the push rods and go with the S&S quickies or pull the boxes and re-use the original Rods? I know the cutting is an easy way just a bit more pricey with the added Pushrods and covers!!!
    The Reason I am asking if someone used the Jims Tool I would like to make one from a socket I have laying around, just not to sure what size that tool is, This tool is pricy for just this job being shipped to the Azores, anywhere from 25-35 dollars the 50 bucks shipping then another 20-30 dollars for customs, tried to find it in Europe but no one carries it. Thanks in advance
    Fatboy128 likes this.
  2. Silent-Dutch

    Silent-Dutch Active Member

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    Hope you got a manual.One of the cam tensioners is on the outside and the other one is on the inside of the cam chest.I know you can pull the tensioners back so far and there is a pre-drilled hole for inserting a cotter pin or allen key to keep the tensioners off the chain for inspection.You can use a spanner to pull them back.Cutting the push rods not a good idea unless you really know what your doing.Once you pull the nose cone off and look in there it's not an evo it's a twin cam.Good luck..
  3. Marc1340

    Marc1340 Active Member

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    Thanks Dutch, do have a manual so that is not a problem, have wrenched Harleys for the past 25 years, first time for the twin inners. I saw the Jim's tool on the internet just wanted a size so I can make it out of an old socket I have hanging around, may just make it easier.
  4. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Once you get the cover off it shouldn't be hard to determine what size, some use a long flat blade screwdriver to pry the tensioner arm back, insert a small allen in the hole to hold it and then remove the front chain.

    It's not that difficult, difference is where the nose cone on an Evo is the support for the outside of the cam, it's not on the twin cam.

    Key things are C clips on rear cam has to be removed to take out cam's with chain

    There is a retention plate on the back of the cam plate for the bearings.

    Oil pump alignment is key, when you put the plate/cams back into the chest, tighten the outside bolts leaving the oil pump loose, then in 5th or 6th gear rotate the rear tire allows the oil pump to move and center itself, then put in your bolts for the oil pump.

    As far as pushrods, if you are not changing cams then I'd pop the tank, and rocker covers, and remove them from the top, saving them, while you have it apart, consider upgrading the lifters from HD to SNS lifters
  5. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    I'm with HRK. In my opinion much easier to pull tank and rockers than mess with pushrods.
  6. Marc1340

    Marc1340 Active Member

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    Thanks Guys, As always true help!! I did not want to press out the cams, I saw a tool to remove the tensioner only. Will pull the box top and go from the top......
    Marc
  7. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    You might want to get a quick disconnect coupling for the fuel crossover also while your at it. Makes pulling the tank a lot easier next time. When I'm home later I can post the info on them.
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  8. Marc1340

    Marc1340 Active Member

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    Thanks Fatboy128, when I pulled my 1996 tank it was a mouth full of gas to make sure it was as close to empty. it sucked be got to do what you got to do!
  9. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    instead of drinking exxon, get a plastic cap and cover the one side on the tank, then put a golf tee or similar into the hose end you pull off, or, clamp the hose with a small vise grip tool and just cap the other end.

    IF you have a friend just disconnect the line, hold one end with your finger and have the friend lift the tank, front end first so fuel goes back to the back (make sure petcock is off.)

    I just put a long rubber fuel line on the pet ****, open it and let it gravity feed
    into a 5 gallon gas can.
  10. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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  11. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    BTW, I googled the manufacturer and bought direct. Saved $$
    Tomflhrci98 likes this.
  12. Marc1340

    Marc1340 Active Member

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    Another poor design by Harley with the crossover tube, and the tensioners that they could have put in gear driven cams if they pinned the crank not just pressed it on so it would not have so much run out.
    I think as a friend I would let him do the Exxon thingee and I will watch LOL. I will have him run it till he hit reserve and do the 2 person lift, very little to no gas flows. Or maybe won't tell him and make sure it is full of gas LOL, just kidding. I think I can pull the tensioners without pressing the cams out by making the tool to un-load the tension on the springs. Pulling the boxes is more work but I have all the time in the world we are retired and can get the nooks and cranneys cleaned at the same time. I read the shop manual and saw a bunch of videos on the subject looks straight forward just have to watch for a couple of thinks when putting it back together. Thanks again bros.
    Long live the 1340 EVO!!
  13. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Newer bikes have the crossover eliminated, removing the tank is simple now, I agree the crossover was a PIA but it worked.

    HD went chain driven because it's quieter than gears, and gears require that the main pinion shaft be built to a higher spec in order to get gears that mesh properly, run quiet and that means multiple gear sizes, more labor, more testing. Chains allow for more deviation in the build and quieter running and cost lest, that's a US EPA issue, noise pollution rules.

    The good side of chains is the quieter you make the engine, the louder the exhaust can be, as it's an overall db rating limit. Thats why the newer bikes have a deeper rumble.

    Changing the front tensioner isn't going to be hard but you will probably have to remove the cams to get to the rear one due to the chain on the back.
  14. Marc1340

    Marc1340 Active Member

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    Guess I am going to have to look for a press, was hoping to get a tool like this maybe
  15. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    Marc who makes that removal tool???
  16. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    You might be able to do it without removing rear cam chain but you can see its tight


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    I can't find that tool in Jims or on the web
  18. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    That's not a stick hd cam plate


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  19. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    So are you saying that mystery tool won't work on a stock plate ?
  20. Marc1340

    Marc1340 Active Member

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    Don't know who made it, say in the coments to ask about ordering on. there is another one made out of old bedrails

    Last edited: May 20, 2016

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