Battery draining '06 E-Glide

My stock 2006 Harley battery finally died after 10 years. , so I bought an aftermarket 600 ccA battery for it. It got banged up when shipped to me a little, it is just cosmetic,(I think), but I called the company about it anyway. They said to put a load tester on it, I did, and it passed, so I decided to use it after talking to the manufacturer on the phone about it and he said there is a warranty on it, they would make note of the damage, and at any time I could return it. I received the battery a week ago. Well twice I've had to jump the bike after it would sit overnight. The first time, I jumped it,(with my battery charger), and it started right up, this time I decided to let it sit 2 days and tried to start it, The lights came on but would only click once and lights dim when I pushed the start button. I didn't try to give it a jump this time.
Before I call back and get a replacement battery I decided to do a couple tests on the bike, to make sure it wasn't something on my bike causing the battery to fail . With the ignition off the battery measures 11.57 VDC. When I turn the ignition on it measures 9.3 VDC, (the battery needs charging, obviously). Then I did an amp draw test on it with the ignition off. I disconnected the pos. terminal from the battery, and connecting both those cables to the neg. lead of my Multimeter,(on the 200 mA setting), and the pos. lead to the pos battery terminal, the bike will draw ~68 - 72 mA, for a few seconds, then it drops, and holds a ~19 mA draw. BTW, the charging system measures 14.28VDC at the battery when running at idle, or revved up, (I checked it after I jumped it the first time). I've got the battery charging now,( with the battery terminal disconnected from the bike), and plan to re-test it when it's fully charged.
Does anyone know if this current draw is normal with the ignition off? Is the 14.28 charging voltage correct with the engine running? It seems a little high, but maybe it's normal. I'm thinking if the 14.28V voltage is correct,(or within specs.), and the 19mA draw is ok with the ignition off, then the battery is defective, but I'd like to know if the bike's readings are correct before I call and get a replacement.
Thanks for any help offered,
Snyde

Take positive cable off .put an amp meter between the positive and the positive cable should read less than 1 to 2 milliamps if it shows anymore than that you have a draw.and remember I said amp meter not voltmeter if you hook up a voltmeter it will always show a draw of 12.volts

Now I'm wondering if I read the meter right, because I got, what I thought was 19 mA, on the 200mA scale.

After charging my battery, and taking my time this time, I did the test again. With the battery charged to 12.57V I disconnected the battery pos. lead, put the neg. lead of my meter on the bike's 2 pos. battery cables removed from the battery, and the pos. lead of the meter to the battery. On the 200mA scale, it starts out at 68mA and I hear a sound, (coming from my speakers, I think), for a second. After about ~ 10 seconds it drops to 19 mA and then after another 5 - 10 seconds it drops to 1.2 mA and stays there. I did this test 4 times, and got the same readings each time. I didn't hold the meter leads on the battery long enough when I did the tests the first time around, and once it dropped to 19mA I thought it was done and removed the cables. This time I held them much longer. I figure at least 2 different "things" must be "charging up" and drawing an initial charge from the battery and once charged the current drops back to 1.2 mA. Does this sound right?
If this is working correctly then I can conclude that the bike is ok and the battery is defective.
Thanks,
Snyde

Your good! What you are seeing is different modules doing state of health check and then powering down. Just like an automobile.

If you set the meter to a 10 amp scale it would read 0.1 0.2

Good!! I'll call tomorrow and have a replacement battery sent here.
Thanks for all the help, B.P. !
Snyde

I never have a call to use the Amp function on a meter very much, but I used the 200mA scale figuring it would give me the closest "whole number" reading. I used to use an Ammeter, an old analog automotive amp gauge from an instrument cluster I had, wired into the generator and mounted on the handlebars on my old 1960 Panhead. That saved my ass more than a few times, 'cause when it stopped charging, (and that temperamental bitch used to do it whenever it felt like it), I knew to aim that thing for home with the lights off, and maybe, if I was lucky and not too far from home, I might get there without having to push it part way!!!
Thanks again,
Snyde

Don't think I didn't contemplate putting a mag. on that thing! I went through so many 6V armatures on it. I eventually got an adapter plate and started buying 6V Volkswagen generators from the junkyard for it! MUCH cheaper, and when they screwed up, I'd spend another $5. and get another.
Back to my current dilemma. I got a replacement battery, and so far so good!!

Good deal glad to see ya got it fixed!