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Final drive belts

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by 03LD, Mar 5, 2016.

  1. 03LD

    03LD Member

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    Hello all, I just received a final drive belt and it has "Falcon SPC" written on it, anyhow I am questioning the quality of the belt just by the look of it. Its fairly shiny and very ridgid? Is this normal the shiny part?To me it looks sort of cheap for $200 CDN. But that is coming from someone who does not have much experience in drive belts. Anyone run this brand ?
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2016
  2. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

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    Drive belt takes a lot of abuse if you are young. lol What was the reason not oem in choice? Do you do your own wrench? The belt is like a timing belt on an engine, somewhat rigid side to side. Miles on scooter and type and riding style info will help us help U.
  3. 03LD

    03LD Member

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    Yes,I am going to give the belt a go...
    reason for not going oem is cash or lack of...about 25,000 km roughly 12,500 miles. No smoky burnouts, but I do like to drive it. Mostly short jaunts. Reason for replacing is small hole in the belt from a stone. Might be ok, but for the peace of mind if I go on a decent run I am going to change while the back tire is off.
  4. Silent-Dutch

    Silent-Dutch Active Member

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    The belt should be good.Check to see if chrome is still good on rear pulley.if not replace it.
  5. charlie46

    charlie46 Well-Known Member

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    As long as hole isn't cutting the edge of the belt you're OK. Per HD

    Sent from my ALCATEL ONE TOUCH Fierce using Tapatalk
  6. badinfluence63

    badinfluence63 Well-Known Member

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    Its made by goodyear, a pretty reputable company.
  7. 03LD

    03LD Member

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    Thanks for the replies.. decided to keep the belt get it on before the season starts, just needs some rain to clean the roads..
  8. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

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    Got lucky this Saturday, No not that. lol Rode about 150 miles, they say we might get snow this Sat= more crud on the roads again= no riding. We had enough rain, the major roads were nice.
  9. bambidee

    bambidee Active Member

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    when it get's warmer a 200-250 day is better.lol I live in upstate N/Y, farm country, have the Adirondacks, Southern Tier down into Penn. A great area to just ride with no plan.
  10. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    A little late to the party....I have heard of some issues with the Falcon belt breaking prematurely, I almost took a stroke when I priced an OEM belt at the dealer, Gates makes the HD belt, I went with the Gates/S&S Heavy Duty belt from California Phil(tell him HRK sent you,and you won't get a discount. lol)
    Our Canuck buck was in a little better shape when I got mine from Cali Phil,but the price Phil gave me and CDN-US conversion and shipping I still came in over $100 buck cheaper than OEM. IMO these belts(Gates/S&S) are at least as good as OEM (Gates/HD) and the Heavy Duty would be comparable to Harleys OEM sidecar belt.
    Since you already bought the Falcon,and probably have it on now, I wouldn't worry about it,it just means you may have to replace it in a few years(40-50,000 miles) instead of getting about 100,000 miles out of a Gates/S&S or OEM.

    http://www.harleypartscheap.com/productdetail.htm?productId=21815393&source=DYM
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2016
  11. 03LD

    03LD Member

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    Thanks... I have it started... I would like to be able to put 10-15k a year :woot: I guess ya never know..lol. I only had 4000 km last year... part of the reason I am changing it cause I don't want to be stuck going up hill in the Highlands somewhere. If / when I do another belt I will go with Phil hopefully the dollar will be a bit better by then..

    thanks
  12. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    You should be fine with your choice, make sure the stone guard is in place and
    check it now and then, also check pulley to make sure it's not badly damaged.
  13. 03LD

    03LD Member

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    I got to putting the drive belt and and wondering about the seals and gaskets. The jackshaft seal still looked pretty good along with the clutch shaft seal. The seal around the alternator on engine side is blue o-ring and fit fairly snug aourd the engine case.. so I left it but put a thin layer or RTV around the outer most lip on the inner primary case around the o-ring area, a bit around the gear shift lever tube and also some on the lower bolt holes on the engine side of the inner primary, basically like Clymer tells you to.
    With the two paper seals in the inner primary I am either going to see what I have around the garage or make some out of some gasket material I have I am thinking they may be close the the float bowl adjustment screw for a Holley carburetor. I guess what I am trying to ask is it ok to use a little RTV silicone around the seals and perhaps a small skim on either side of the outer primary gasket?

    thanks
  14. Lucifer

    Lucifer Well-Known Member

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    I know a guy that does that too,generally if the gaskets and seals show no signs of leaking or weeping I leave them alone,if they do show signs,I replace them.I've reused the primary gasket without any sealant on it up to 3 times,I snug it up going criss-cross pattern and don't over torque them,but torqued down evenly.

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