hard starting electra glide

If this is a carbureted model check that fuel is not overflowing the bowl (stuck or worn float valve). This would cause fuel to wash down your cylinders when stopped and during starting there is little lubrication and the piston rings would grind until oil reached them again. You should smell the excess fuel if this is related to the problem.

The grinding could also be other lubrication related problems or valve related. I would be weary of riding this too much until I found the source.

Low battery would do this, it might be strong enough when cold but not hot, so have it checked.

Other thing is to check the cranking compression, you might be with your combo in a very high cranking compression, when cold the engine fires over but on hot restarts you get kick back.

IIRC I seem to have heard of people having that issue with the 37B and certain combos. Put in Compression releases to resolve it or change cams.

Next time you go for a quick restart don't touch the throttle, part of this is the introduction of fuel to a hot cylinder combined with big cranking compression and bam pre-ignition and backfire, just bump the starter once with your thumb, maybe twice, get the engine to rotate, then press the starter.

Also check your ignition, if it has a delay spark option, select it, that way the engine rotates before firing the plugs.

If you hav a multi meter check voltage on the green starter wire

HD battery puts out 405 cranking amps plenty of power and the stock starter can handle your 95, it's doing 110s, 120R's 117, 107's all over the country. It's the combination of all the other stuff behind the starter (and in front) that is causing your issue.

I ran a stock HD starter on my SNS 124 with way more compression than you
10 Years, on a stock starter and jackshaft moving a 124, and prior to that a 95 with Wood TW-6H 590 lift 240 duration cams and 10 to 1 pistons with no compression releases. Bad to the bone but a bitch on hot restarts.

The problem with a bigger starter is they require more juice, to get more juice you have to buy a bigger battery, then you need wires etc, it just drains your wallet its the high dollar cost solution to your problem.

The 37B is famous for what you have going on, it's a good cam but if it's not matched up with the right pistons you get detonation and kick back... I'm guessing you have the flat top 95 inch 10 to 1 pistons right?

The combination is the problem, so either 1) change cams (get some with releases or different grind) 2) compression releases in the heads. To me the cams is the no brainer, easy to do, also put travel limiters in your lifters (presuming you replaced them with the cams) this helps keep lifters from collapsing from thin hot oil and closing a valve when the valve should be open.

Again, compression releases or cams with releases (SNS) built in to the cams.

I'll detail the testing and work you can do yourself to see if the electrics are good but in the long run this isn't going away with a "bigger starter" That's the old brute force solution, and you'l still have hot soak and kickback, you might just bust the middle of the clutch pack or hurt the compensator or jack shaft.

E-lectrcal:

First is make sure you have good connections and volts going across the wires get a digital meter, unhook the green (solenoid) wire from the starter, ground the meter and put the red wire to green, press the start button, see how much power is coming through (volts) if you have sufficient volts good, if not start looking for whats draining power, spot lamps, high beam, radio, etc. Turn them off when starting.

Now be sure you have a good ground going from the battery to the frame AND a second ground going directly to the top bolt on the starter at the back of the primary. A good ground will make a ton of difference, check connections make sure the battery is getting a good ground.

Same for power, make sure the cables good, check power to starter that red wire is hot, so set meter, ground it and then touch the red lead to the starter, see what volts you are getting.

Doesn't matter if you put in a big balls all ass starter if you can't get the power
to the stock starter.

So change the wires if they are old and brittle, NAPA sells ground and power wires that are already terminated in different lengths.


Starting hot bike:

Now when you go to restart, DO NOT twist the throttle, ever, this makes it worse
just bump the start button lightly, get the engine rotating a bit, then press the start button, this will work most of the time to get rid of the kick back.

Solving problem so you don't have to screw with it anymore:

Change the cams. This will probably be the best way get rid of the 37b's yeah the shop guys will say just put on a bigger starter but that's a bandaid on problem it doesn't solve the issue.
or, Ppll the heads take them to a shop and have manual compression releases put in this will solve the problem.

Stock HD starters are very tough and they draw way less power requirements from the electrical system than aftermarket starters and that means less cost to you and more stock parts.

JMO don't drop $500 on a new starter, wires, and another $200 on battery then labor

BTW SNS makes a 510 lift mild street cam with compression releases built into the cams. Works great I ran the 585 on my 107, buddy runs them on his 107, never an issue with hot restart.

http://www.sscycle.com/go-fast-showcase/motorcycle-engine-components/easy-start-cams/

Google hot restart andrews 37B

https://www.google.com/#q=andrews 37b cam hot restart

510 EZ Start cams from SNS would be same as tw37B
for grind but it has built in releases.

I would contact SNS talk to tech, it's free and give them
the details about the build and the hot restart situation
and that you are considering their EZ start cams so you
don't have to pull the heads to have releases put in to help.

Remember you want the EZ start they have the SNS 510 and SNS 510 ez

Here is a link to the chain drive ez start cams for early TC models
Call SNS and talk to the tech people and see which cams they recommend.

When you are ready to do it call Phil at CA Phils in KS he is an SNS dealer
tell him you are on Bike -Talk and know me and he will get you a better
than street price. 785 243 9991

Link

BTW you could contact Andrews as well, I would bet they
steer you to the 54 they make for your bike. SNS is probably the 551

Its a good option, they also have a cam plate upgrade kit, that gets rid of the old tensioner system for the new one, which is much better, did you do your own work?

Do you have adjustable pushrods in the engine ?

A cam swap will be pretty easy, talk to SNS about whats
going on with the current build and what they think, they
are good people.

Don't forget to call phil on the cams either way he's a forum member
and gives us good deals.

Change the battery first and make sure you have a spare ground to starter direct from battery ground post. If this solves it you are good to go


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