Mid USA Powerhouse 114ci

i would be interested in this same info.......sounds interesting...

try this.......

Mid USA Powerhouse 114 motor - Google Search

Or you can go here and ask them yourself.

My bet is EPA - I didn't see complete motors on the catalog pages, costs a ton to certify a motor for EPA.

Thank you California...

MID-USA Motorcycle Parts

that is cool......ya could do a howto and put it in the project section....let us sorta look over your shoulder as ya build it!!!!

HDhotrod,

Thought I'd chime in here and give you a bit of advice for that 114 in your 97 RK, in that I've helped a buddy out for the past few years with his Elbruto 113 in his 97 RK.

Now that you're popping in a 120+/- HP/TQ motor into a bike originally built with a 50 HP motor you need to take care of a few things because if you don't, they'll probably come up and you'll deal with them later.

1) Transmission - Consider upgrading Trap door to Jims Billet now, eventually you'll pull the inner ring out of the trap door bearing or crack the inner casting, it wasn't made for the pressures you'll see as a result of Item 2
Also cut off or pull off the innerprimary main shaft inner race bearing on the main shaft, it's going to walk either into the primary or into the trans busting the main gear bearing seal. Zippers Performance makes a one piece rear primary mainshaft bearing replacement and seal that will eliminate the two piece hd bearing. Don't do it and prepare to pull the tranny apart later anyway...


2) Clutch, - stock clutch plates will burn up in no time. You can run SE, dumping the center springpack plate from 97 and a VPC, or, JMO the best bet is a Rivera Pro clutch (stock feel racing grip) with the gold spring, the added pressure from the clutch and motor will help cause #1 to happen..


3) Be sure to run the 3.37 gears in the primary not the stock 3.15 ratio, too low on RPM, strokers don't like lumpety lumpety idle crusing, hard on the bottom end, the 3.37 will help with that only a couple hundred more RPM but acceleration will improve as will driveability.

4) Rear swingarm and belt, We eventually replaced it all because the swingarm gave out and cracked at the adjuster The bike with all that power can make the swingarm a bit squiggly in corners and acceleration.
The stock HD bits are not very good from 97 and I'd bet you haven't upgraded the cleve blocks or rubber bushings anyway.

So either replace the rubber gromments on each end of the swing arm pivot shaft with the new design (three rings) or, consider getting a replacement late model swingarm, fatbaggersinc.com sells the swingarm, axle with spacers and they have a replacement billet cleve block machined to fit the smaller swingarm pivot bolt on your model.

This means the swingarm really fits better, has stronger material and you can run a narrow belt ie wider tire if you choose. You can also dump that big azzed brake for a new bolt on twin cam brake with dual pistons so you can stop. In short you upgrade the whole rear.

5) front brakes - if you don't upgrade the calipers to dual piston you'll find the stock brakes are well... waaaay undercapable of stopping an 800 pound 120 hp bike. Remember not only will you be able to get to 70 mph, twice as fast you'll need to stop that sucker. Hawg Halters makes a good set and LRB Z pads are a good idea.

6) Cranes ignition boost starter relay which provides direct power to the coil on starting will help with the motor firing up.

7) Speaking of item6 consider upgrading your starter to an All Balls Starter and All Balls one piece starter jackshaft. - Lifetime warranty on both. Also to help start the big motor change the ring gear on the clutch basket to a Compufire 1084 Ring Gear set

You can pop that motor in and run around but eventually over a year, you are going to start on this list LOL...

Shop around for good prices, California Phil is a shop with low prices same for Amy and Bill at Bishop's Performance - Parts & Service for Harley Davidson, Buell, and other American V-Twins.

great advise hrk........... thanks for posting that up. a lot of folks that upgrade their engines dont think about the rest of the machine, and the wear and pressures they will inflict on it. taking care of these problems from the start will assure long life and safer life!!!!!!

No problemo

First thing he needs to do after putting that motor in or before is upgrade the brakes and pads.

If you can go faster you need to be able to stop.

Forgot I'd update the motormount up front as well and change out the heim joints for the motor top and front, also those rubber donuts on the rear swingarm are part of the mounting system for the motor/trans unit,

he best replace them as well or it's gonna be real interesting under hard throttle.

You just can't drop a motor twice as big in and expect the rest to keep up, think about dropping a big block chevy 502 into a malibu that had a straight 6 and what you'd need to do, about the same thing...

No problem

JMO, Upgrade the brakes by either getting Hawg Halters online shop around or maybe find a set of twin cam front calipers and adapt them to your forks, you may have to make up a bracket to do so, or, you'll have to swap the lowers for TC lowers, and then you'll have to change the front axle (larger) but you might be able to keep your wheel, just swap bearings for a different size and spacer.

As for the rear, at $220 the FBI rear swing arm is a deal, you'll get a like new take off from one of the swaps they do at shows, the new axle (bigger and the simple cam adjuster system, much better) new cleve blocks that are solid, it' a major improvement over what you have now. We got a rear stock HD brake caliper for a TC that will fit on the swingarm for $30 just stuck new pads in it, and same for a rotor and wheel, just found some take offs from a newer bike.

As for the belt, if you do the rear swap like I'm saying and run the later model wheel like a RK Custom wheel (I run one on my softail, doug on his RK) you get a solid disk, spokes are not wise on a 114 think twisted spokes and ripped out hub when it hooks and rips it apart. All these parts are ebay, swap meet specials, don't pay big bucks for new, I gave Doug the rear wheel and brake rotor, so he has about $300 in the swap including swingarm, new rubber grommets, pads etc. It will hook right up to your brake line and shocks. Oh yeah we found some used rear air shocks for free barely used on another board.

At minimum replace all the mounting points for the trans, swingarm and motor, it will save you big time.


Gearheads have to stick together....

You might be suprised how well a CV44 works on a large engine.

the CV 51 out of the box was very good on my 116, and it works well on the 124. I could always drop on a Super D but unless I run a drag strip it's not fun on the street.

I would get a cv 51 off ebay before I put on the Mik.

If you already have an intake for a Super G then I'd look for one.

Drill out the air bleed to be adjustable, so you can change the pilot to main transistion timing, and pop on a Thunderjet. It will make the G easier to tune and better running.