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01 Ultra with Stumble Problem

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by hotroadking, Sep 27, 2006.

  1. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Sometimes problems drive you nuts, this ones been an issue on a friends bike, it was so bad at one time he was selling it. I got 90% of it taken care of but the last 10% is driving me nuts so here's the issue, see if you can come up with a solution.

    01 Ultra
    stock heads, intake and cyl
    tw37B cams (previously SE211)
    HD Stage 1 filter and backing plate
    Rienhart true duals

    When started the bike starts fine and idles ok, not really too high but it will hold steady idle. It never really seems to idle up and down like an EFI should, it just goes to a steady idle, then you have to remember it's in FL so it's not like it's really cold out LOL

    When you take off to ride, until the motor is really warmed up it will stumble under 3K RPM, if you whack the throttle open it will pull through the stumble and above 3K no stumble.

    Once warmed up the lower RPM stumble is gone however in 5th you can really notice it has an slight stumble at 2700 to 3K, over 3 k it's not present. So rolling along at 65 to 70 you are in the stumble band. Almost like a surge/stumble

    It has a new powercommander usb, that replaced a PC 3 and that replaced a DFO, all of these had the same issues only worse.

    Previously I replaced plugs and plug wires (one had a cut that was shorting the front cyl out) that helped and the engine temp sensor has been replaced.

    It has good solid intake seals, no exhaust leaks, motors never been apart, sure has become cold natured as well.

    the PCUSB has a custom dyno map built for the bike.
  2. CD

    CD Guest

    Good old Magnetti Marelli EFI

    HRK,

    It sounds like a couple of issues going on. Do you have the service manual so you can read the trouble shooting tree? I can lend you mine if you need it.

    The MM EFI is very, very different from the Delphi. Instead of electronically controlled idle, it has both a cold and hot idle that are adjustable. Have you checked the cold idle solenoid operation? Easy enough to do with a cold engine. Remove the backing plate so you can clearly see the solenoid and the cold idle adjustment screw and as you know, the hot idle is accessed from the front of the throttle body. When the computer boots, if the engine is dead cold the cold idle solenoid should kick open. If it does not, you will need to test the solenoid and if it is good, the head temp sensor might be bad. You can also test the cold start side by chilling the sensor. I used a can of duster upside down so it shot liquid onto the sensor. That's how I found out mine was bad. Even if the weather is warm, the cold start will kick out even for a couple of seconds. Mine stopped doing that and the temp sensor was bad. I know you changed the temp sensor but, you still need to insure the cold idle solenoid is working.

    As for the stumble, what is the fuel pressure reading? Are the injectors clean and not excessively worn? Fuel filter changed? Does the TPS work properly with no jumps in resistance when you test it with a VOM? If the TPS has any jumps in the readings, it will through bad info to the ECU. If it is jumping around, try to clean it with contact cleaner. If memory serves, the problematic cam position sensor was dropped on the '01 so it shouldn't be an issue.

    Since the DFO, PC3 and the PCIII USB did not affect the stumble, my thought is that it might be the TPS or connector or wiring to the ECU.

    Can you verify the throttle position relates to the stumble or is it strictly RPM related regardless of throttle position?
  3. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Thanks I'll do some of that testing this evening, it's not tossing a code for any of the issues, I did put a new temp sensor in the motor about 6 months ago,

    It along with the plug wires that were cut and shorting out the front cyl along with a frayed wire and broken connector on the VR were replaced this cured the bad running motor.

    I agree it may be in the tps or cold start area, I'll check that this evening.

    Haven't pulled the injectors, I was wondering if maybe a loose injector wire could be a problem. However the seals around the injectors look good and it's not an abused but, normal wear though.

    The stumble at cruise seems to be more of an RPM thing, I'll ride and check 4th gear at 27 to 3K and see if it is consistent.

    I know it's below 3K due to the cold and hot issues.
  4. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    BTW I don't have a manual for this bike but if you can scan and email the pages or fax them let me know also the tps procedure for checking hot and cold with the VOM.
  5. CD

    CD Guest

    Steve,
    There are a ton of pages to read so it would be easier to loan you the book.
    Drop me an email with your address unless it is the same as in the data base.

    The TPS should have three pins A (ECU pin 16): BK/W B (ECU pin 14): R/W C (ECU pin 30): GY/V

    A 5vdc reference voltage is supplied to pin B from ECU pin 14 and A is sensor ground on ECU pin 16 and to the ET and IAT sensors. C is the actual TP signal that goes to pin 30 of the ECU and both A & B are connected into the Baro and CMP sensors.

    If you disconnect the TPS connector and read the resistance between pins A & C on the TPS (ECU pins 30 (+) and 16 (-)) you should see the resistance slowly and smoothly change from closed to open throttle. Any major jumps either up or down indicates either a bad TPS or it might be dirty.

    Or, you can use some fine pins and watch the voltage change as you open and close the throttle. Voltage should vary from .02-.04 VDC at idle to 4.6-4.95 at WOT with no jumps or spikes. Remember, A is positive, C is ground.

    Note: The book does say that there may be a "mild" spike at 30% throttle and is normal due to a transition.
  6. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Thanks for the book offer however I dont want to put you out on mailing it as the bike will be going back to him in a week anyway.

    I think what you've given me is a good start, I can get the guy to go buy the SM at the local dealer, I've suspected a bad IAC or hot cold idle problem funny thing is two dealers and a indy couldn't detect the problem.

    It did have so many other issues that it was masking the cold and tps issue.

    It had a cut front plug boot arcing to the cyl when it got wet it just went nuts

    Rear plug wire had worn through on the frame

    Temp sensor wire was exposed and worn through from being routed over the top motor mount adjuster threads.

    VR housing connector was cracked and exposed.

    Speedo sensor was out, LOL

    Lot of little things.

    I will say when it's on that little 88 with a cam will flat pull hard.

    I'll post some results tomorrow or Friday.
  7. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Pulled backing plate turned on ignition and the cold idle plunger moved forward as it should and retreated just a bit, turn it off and it returns to the stop position so that seems to be fine.
  8. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    checked vdc across A-C, at idle it's .74 and runs smoothly up to 4.70 at WOT at least digitally I didn't see a spike

    .74 seems high at idle doesn't it?
  9. CD

    CD Guest

    The idle voltage is out of the max parameters of .2-.4 by .35 so it is nearly double idle voltage. It *could* be causing the ECU to be always slightly off from it's assumed throttle position.
    I am not 100% sure but if I remember correctly, idle speed is based on the signal sent via the TPS and the throttle blade position set by the idle screw. If the TPS is reading high, the ECU might be assuming a partially open throttle and is sending more fuel and it is being compensated for by the idle speed adjustment.
    I suspect that if you adjust the TPS to be within parameters you will have to adjust the idle since now less fuel is sent to the injectors based on what the ECU *thinks* it is seeing via the TPS.

    After adjusting the TPS, recalibrate the PCIII to match the throttle position. I don't believe it will affect the MAP that much.
  10. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Will do thanks maybe that will fix this puppy back to normal.
  11. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Ok went home for lunch adjusted TPS to .031 right in the middle bike starts fine, haven't been able to crank it up to see about the 2700 to 3000 issue but
    now it has a surge when you hold constant throttle.

    Neighborhood is 30 MPH and holding it there, or at 25, or 35 steady the bike surges vs running smooth as it did before.
  12. CD

    CD Guest

    Does it do it with the PC disconnected? That would verify a MAP to TPS mismatch and you might have to get it remapped. You did match TPs to PC throttle position right?

    I thought that the MAP would be okay once the TPS and PC matched.
  13. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Not yet just doing one step at a time.

    When I set it at .5 that problem isn't as bad

    The issue at 2700 to 3K did go away it's like I just moved the issue into the 2200 range.
  14. CD

    CD Guest

    When you matched the TPS to the PCIII, did it change anything?

    Does it now sound like a lean surge?

    Try jumpering the barometric sensor to test if it is functioning. Do you need the pin out for it?
  15. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Its a PC USB and no I have not matched it as of yet.

    It does feel like a lean surge, it's almost as if when you move the voltage down the surge that was at 27 to 3000 moved down into the 2000's with it, I was going to move it down to the lower setting of .2 and see what happens this evening.

    Yes on the baro sensor if you can tell me what to look for and what pins I can test it.
  16. ridehard95

    ridehard95 New Member

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    sounds all most like injector problem . I think it just might be
  17. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Here's what I was thinking of doing tonight see what you think

    1) Remove ac and backing plate
    2) Back off idle screw from touching plate
    3) open plates and clean EFI throttle body and plate ends to be sure we have a clean surface to work with,
    4) Set TPS to .3ish
    5) Set PCusb idle position
    5) Close warm Idle screw to touch plate lever

    6) Start bike and adjust warm idle to proper rpm.

    See if that will clean up the stumble down under 2500
  18. CD

    CD Guest

    That's a good plan.
    Just curious, have you run some EFI injector cleaner through it?

    The Baro sensor is located just forward of the ECM and has BK/W on pin A, V/W on pin B, and R/W on pin C. With the ignition on check the signal voltage, there should be 2.7-4.95 VDC on Pin B (+) to Pin A (-). Also, check the 5 VDC reference voltage on pin C (+) to pin A (-).

    To by test the Baro sensor, use the vacuum port and as you reduce pressure, the signal voltage on pin B to pin A should drop.

    You can jumper pins B and C with the connector off. This will simulate approximately sea level conditions.

    The warm idle adjustment should be 950-1050 RPM. The cold should be 1500-1600 RPM.

    Make sure the engine is fully warmed up so the temp sensor is at 284ยบ or higher. Taking it for a good ride will warm it up.
    The idle is set in the TB on the lower right side using a Torx #T10. Set the idle at 950-1050 and shut it down. To adjust the cold idle, remove the IAC connector from the idle speed control actuator. Start the engine and let the idle settle down. Use the T10 to adjust the RPM to 1500-1600.

    Oddly enough, there is a note that the TPS voltage will vary from .40 to .60 VDC after adjusting the hot idle.

    I am curious if the stumble goes away if you do a quick check with the PCIII disconnected.
  19. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    thanks that sounds like a plan for this evening,

    The stumble was there before the pc, it's got something somewhere going on and it won't set a code, one of the "find me problems"

    I'll let you know how all the tests and numbers pan out.
  20. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Was out last week and didn't get around to the bike,

    The ECM was replaced by an indy shop as being bad, I always suspected this was wrong, and in that the bikes current problem was still there I met up with him on Sun and got the stock ECM.

    Replaced the replacement ECM with the stock ECM, set the TPS at approx .25 and reset the throttle position on the PCUSB.

    Thank god for wireless internet, had to download the latest software, easy to do sitting in the garage.

    Anyway it fired right up, idle cold never seems to go up but the plunger moves, I have hot idle at 1100 right now and it runs good, the stumble is gone and it accelerates briskly.

    I'll drop the idle down about 100 or so tonight its hovering just over 1100.

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