04' Sportster Rejet

Hey everyone, I am new to the forum and could really use some sound advice. I am currently trying to rejet and tune my 04' Sportster 1200c but am runing into alot of issues. I can't seem to find the right set up. I have a stage 1 kit but am hesitant about adding it because alot of people seem to say its a waste of time. Currently the only modification to my bike is a set of porker drag pipes. I cant seem to find the right jet sizing to get to a nice idle and good pick up. Does anyone have any advice on what size jets i should use, what needle jet i should use, and whether or not the stage 1 kit is a good idea? Also if anyone has the instructions from their stage 1 kit i would really appreciate it, I seem to have misplaced mine and cant find another set on the internet! Thanks in advance.

Do you have any idea what is in there for jetting now? Why do you want to rejet or feel the need to do so? What is happening?

I believe that it is a 42 and 175. Once i put the new exhaust on it was not running smooth at all and i was unable to fix it with adjusting the mixture screw so I contacted the dealer. They told me i needed to rejet it but they were unable to tell me a good place to start in terms of what jets. And I really dont want to spend a few hundred bucks to take it to them to have them do it. I have read a great deal of stuff online about where to start and what jets to begin with but it seems that everyone has a different opinion on the matter.

Jets are cheep. I would suggest bumping the pilot up to a 44. If that does not work for you, then try a 46. There really should be no need to mess with the main jet and or needle since you have not really done any mods on it.

drag pipes will make it hard to tune.
You didn't say what kind of stage one kit you have, if it's a CV Performance stage one it is a top notch kit. there are instructions at CVPerformance.com or Harley Davidson Performance

Here's article I have saved for a long time.

All the Keihin carb needs to deliver proper mixtures for stock and modified engines is a different needle-one that your Harley dealer can easily get from The Factory-and a simple adjustment.

The needle I have used and recommended since 1990 is the needle from the first (1988-89) 1200 Sportster, Part No. 27094-88. This needle is smaller in diameter (richer) in its straight-diameter section, which controls mixture strength in the 1/8-1/2-throttle range. Buy it and install it.

You also need to open the idle mixture screw about one turn (adjust for best idle). You do this by removing the soft aluminum plug covering the screw on the bottom of the carburetor.

The main jet seldom needs changing because the stock jet is about two sizes too large. An open exhaust and air cleaner makes it just about right. This jet only becomes effective at throttle openings of 3/4 and above, so unless you ride at wide-open throttle all the time you needn't concern yourself with the main jet. "
And from American Rider, "Fixing Jetting" article online:
Quote:
"All you really need to do to get your stock carb right is:

*Buy and install a stock jet needle for a 1988 or '89 1200 Sportster. This needle was developed for the early Sportster Keihin CV carb that was not equipped with an accelerator pump. As such, it is richer in the off-idle to 1/4-throttle range and works just right.

* Remove the soft aluminum plug covering the idle mixture screw. Back the screw out to slightly richen the idle mixture (1/2 to 1-1/2 turns will do it).

DO NOT

* Do not change the main jet; the stock one is just right with a free-flowing air cleaner and mufflers. Yep, the stock main jet is rich. If you find this hard to believe, use the main jet test in the Mikuni manual to see for yourself. You see, the main jet size is not controlled by emission testing and the government is not very interested in mixtures at full throttle. The factories are free to use any main jet they want and, for some reason, all the stock bikes I have tuned over the past 25 odd years have had somewhat rich main jets, including Evo & Twin Cam Harleys.

* Do not change the slow jet; the stock one is just right with an open air cleaner and free-flowing mufflers.

* Do not install straight, open pipes, especially long ones. If you do, forget everything I've said. Straight open exhaust-equipped engines run poorly in the 2,000 - 3,500 rpm range and no amount of carb tuning can fix that. "

Since you're still running the stock breather you probably won't need to rejet...an adjustment of the idle mixture for best idle will probably do...gonna be hard to get it right down low with straight pipes tho...baffles and torque cones could help it.
A free flow breather and the Stage one kit will wake it up and might be a little easier to get a decent idle

I have baffles in my drag pipes,along with "AR"cones,and it runs pretty good.Drag pipes are not the best choice of pipes,for low-mid range power.I have Kens (CVP) goodies in my carb and I must admit ,my bike runs real good.