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05 FXDWG - Question about CVP Stage 1 Kit

Discussion in 'CVP Stage 1 Tuners Kit' started by Bob Cosby, Apr 16, 2010.

  1. Bob Cosby

    Bob Cosby New Member

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    Good Evening,

    I have an issue with my 05 'Glide that I'm trying to work out, and someone on a different forum suggested the Stage 1 Carb Tuner Kit to fix the problem. That led me to this forum, and I must say, there is some very good info here. Here is what I posted on the other site:

    Like I said, one of the members suggested this kit. Honestly, I'm pretty confident it would fix the problem. However, as stated in the above paragraph, I'm a bit worried about gas mileage, as I'm a bit stingy when it comes to paying for $3 per gallon gas (ya I know....but its just the way I am!).

    I'm mechanically inclined, though it has been almost all related to cars. The last Carb I had off of anything was a Holley 4 bbl from a 74 Pontiac. Even so, I'd like to think I'd have no problems doing the job.

    Advice, input, suggestions, recommendations, etc would be greatly appreciated.

    Additionally, if anybody could chime in on how this kit has affected mileage (good, bad, or not at all), I'd love to hear that too.

    Thanks!
  2. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Hello Bob, this sounds completely like that there is a jetting issue. what tips this off for me is how much different the bike runs at different air temps. Even though a motorcycle engine and a car carb are designed different, they still function basically the same. Also, the key is that the bike runs better when you have the choke on, what you are doing is taking the oxogen away and giving it more fuel so it will run properly. You could have too big of jets in. Was the bike re-jetted when you put different pipes on?
  3. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Hi Bob, the kit should help you out with what you described. Plus you will retain your mileage, one of the things I strived for when designing the parts and kits since I'm stingy with my gas money as well :D

    I saw your post over there on HDForums and saw someone suggesting the NOKK needle. Only trouble with that needle is Harley discontinued it, plus it is fairly rich just off idle (hence not MPG friendly).
  4. Bob Cosby

    Bob Cosby New Member

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    Many thanks for the responses. The kit is really sounding good. I've got a shop manual, so I'm pretty certain I can do the job with little trouble. Would like to get some feedback from a few folks on their mileage results if possible.

    Thanks again!
    Bob
  5. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    i installed the kit and v-ductor..........got nearly 5 more mpg.....38 to 43.........and a bit more torque, according to the seat of my pants!!! i ride two up on a geezerglide,06 and sometimes pull a trailer............
  6. BluePearl

    BluePearl New Member

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    I run EFI on my 06 "geezerglide" but did install the v-ductor and if I didn't like using up all the new torque so much I'm sure it has improved my fuel mileage.
    I can't say on the CVP and mileage, but I know Ken puts out quality products
    :rocket_bike::rocket_bike:I don't mind spendin $30/day on gas,that means I either went really far or went nowhere really fast:D
  7. David DiCesare

    David DiCesare New Member

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    Good morning; I am a brand new member. Installed the stage 1 kit with the accelerator pump upgrade. Stock Jets on my 96 Fatboy (only mod are aftermarket pipes from previous owner) were 42 and 170 and the air fuel screw was 1 1/4 turns out. I am using the 45 and 180 from the kit. QUESTION is, "Where should the air/fuel mixture be?" Have already added a 1/4 turn out from instructions on Harley Performance.com to accomodate for the "lean" factory setting. Currently I am out 1 1/2 turns. Idles ok but won't accept gas uder aload; just pops..I am thinking I am really lean OR there is a problem with the timing advance. Thought I would start here with you fine folks! Can anyone help?
  8. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    David, I replied to your question under your other posting:
    [PAGE="http://bike-talk.com/forum/cvp-stage-1-tuners-kit/10969-stage-1-kit-air-fuel-setting.html"]Stage 1 Kit air fuel setting[/PAGE].
  9. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Bob

    First thing I'd look for is an intake leak
    around the back of the carb as it press fits into a rubber seal o-ring
    and around the flanges to each head as they too are rubber O-rings.

    A can of WD-40 sprayed using the red "straw" that comes with it
    have the engine warm and idle up using the throttle lock, hold it at about 1500 RPM

    Now spray around the intake seals see if you get a discernible drop or change in RPM
    if so you have an intake leak and removing the intake and replace the seals is a good idea. If you have to replace the seals replace the left (rear of intake) allen bolts with some Hex heads, makes life easier...
  10. Bob Cosby

    Bob Cosby New Member

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    Ok, it has been a couple of months, but I went ahead and ordered the kit (beat the free shipping deadline, LOL). Will report back once I get it installed.

    hotroadking....appreciate the input. Didn't find any leaks - hope I didn't miss something!

    Bob
  11. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Nope you want to rule out any "problems" before you add parts, JMO because you might be masking the real problem and not solving the issue, Say you have a small intake seal leak causing the lean condition, you add fuel to compensate, mileage goes to crap..

    Deceleration popping in the pipes is due to a couple of things, 1) Reversion, which is the engine trying to pull air back into the cyl from the exhaust side vs pushing it out as it slows usually due to cam design, and pipe type, Long shots do this, drag pipes etc.
    2) lean condition at closed throttle..

    My guess is you are lean.

    Install the kit, get the bike warmed up, lock the throttle at 1500 RPM and adjust the screw in to seat, or until the idle drops off, back off the screw until the idle smooths and then goes back to poor idle. Count the number of turns and go right in the middle.

    For example you turn the screw in and the idle drops, turning it out it smooths out then as you continue the idle gets worse at 2.5 turns. Turn the screw back in 1.25 turns from the furthest out point where the idle started to drop off and you are golden.

    Turn off engine, now turn that screw in counting turns to know how many turns you are out from bottom (never turn it in hard, just lightly seat it), 2 to 2.5 turns is about normal from the bottom,

    If you are 3 turns out the pilot jet is too lean (you are adding fuel) if it's 1 turn out you are too rich on the pilot jet. It should be around 2 to 2.5

    Now if you went up just one size from stock and it's 1.5 turns out and you don't have any in between jets ie you went from 46 to 48 and there is not a 47, then you will set it 1.5 turns out.. It's just the way it will be.
  12. steveb

    steveb Active Member

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    I had a '05 Super Glide with EFI. I had a stage 1 that consisted of a Ness Big Sucker air cleaner, V&H Big Shot staggered pipes and a Power Commander .It ran great and good power and I was getting 42 mpg on the highway at 65mph. you should be able to get a carb set to run the same way.
  13. Bob Cosby

    Bob Cosby New Member

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    Ok, I have been riding a lot this summer, and I swear my "lean" problem is getting progressively worse. The bike simply takes forever to warm up, and even when fully warm, at light-throttle cruising speeds, it bucks and occassionally coughs - even in this hot summer weather.

    So, I went out and did what you suggested again - taking my time - and I did find something. I can get the rpm to increase slightly when I spray carb cleaner around the area that the intake bolts to the head - both front and rear cylinders. It is not a big increase at all, but I did it probably a couple dozen times, and there is definately a change in rpm (engine smooths out a bit too). When sprayed around where the carb attaches to the intake, I couldn't get in discernable change in rpm.

    So....leaky intake seals? Best guess. I have the manual, and it looks very straightforward. However, what the heck do you use to get those 1/4" allen-head bolts off???? Could they have put them at a worse angle? :banghead:

    And I'm scared to go down to the local stealership and even ask what they want for those seals.

    Hoping my kit gets here soon too....
  14. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Seals are not expensive - and need to be replaced the leak probably increases as the heads expand under heat as you ride longer.

    Buy a Service manual and you can do this with hand tools, and some patience.

    If the back side of the intake still has Allen head bolts, replace with the correct thread
    hex head bolts, makes it much easier...
  15. Bob Cosby

    Bob Cosby New Member

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    Thanks. I have a service manual, and decent tools. It does still have the allen-head bolts (I'm the original owner, and nothing has ever been off the motor).

    Any advice for getting those bolts out? I assume you use a standard allen wrench, as there isn't room for an allen-head socket? Will pulling the gas tank off make it any easier?

    Appreciate it!
    Bob
  16. HarleysLR

    HarleysLR Active Member

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    I use carb cleaner to spray for leaks it is a little more volatile and defiantly lets you know there is a leak.
    As for mileage, I get around 50 MPG’s on 2 different bikes with Kens stuff installed in them, I do not use the Easy Adjust air screw. I use the stock air screw, once set you won’t have to adjust any more.
  17. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    regular allen wrench will get them, if you have a diegrinder with a cutoff wheel you can shorten the short end of the wrench to help.....they may be on the tough side to get out.....use some heat to help......
  18. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    It's not that hard, use an allen to get them out

    I cut one down to about 1 inch or more and use 1/4 open end to get the front out.

    For the rear, once the allens are out get hex heads to replace.

    Just take your time.

    Remove the tank if you want max room or, just unbolt it, lift and run
    a block of wood or PVC down the tunnel to hold the tank up gives you about
    3 to 4 inches of room.

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