'06 Electraglide rear brake pad NIGHTMARE

I hope you guys can help me out!
I'm changing the brake pads on the rear of my '06 Electraglide. I have a service manual, and followed it step by step, removed the old, there is a sequence whereby you remove the inner brake pad, compress the caliper piston, install the new pad, re-assemble, stomp and release the brakes to force the piston agains the new pad holding the new pad to the rotor, so you can remove the bolts again to install the outer brake pad and the inner pad will stay in place. There's a note that says if you remove both pads at once it can make it hard to reassemble later, the anti-rattle spring can come loose. I'm finding that out now!!!
I followed the instructions and got the inner pad in there easily, when I took the bolts out again to remove the outer pad, and was prying, ever so slightly, on the pad to collapse the outer piston the inner pad fell out as I was removing the outer pad. Now, when I try to reassemble with the new pads, the holes in the pads won't line up properly. Even the old pads won't line up. I got the pistons collapsed ok, because the pads will slide up into place, it's just that I can only get 1 hole to line up correctly at a time.
There are 2 holes in the top of the caliper and one end, of what I believe is the anti-rattle spring, is sticking up through one of the holes,(I think that's how in "mounts" in the caliper), but nothing is sticking out of the other hole, and fishing around between the rotor and caliper I can't find the other end of the spring. I think the front of the spring rotated out of front "hole" and spun clockwise, but I can't find the other end of it!
I'm at a real loss here! Have any of you ever run into this before?
I'm at the point where I've got to either remove the rear wheel so I can get up inside the caliper and align things properly, or remove 3 screws and "split" the caliper halves so I can straighten things out that way.
I really don't want to do either, but unless one of you guys know's what's going on here, I'm gonna have to do one of the two.
Which leads me to the question, what would be the better way to go, remove the rear wheel,(unfortunately the axl bolt goes through part of the caliper to hold it on, that's the only way to remove the caliper), or split the caliper and straighten things out that way.
I'm leaning on splitting the caliper, unless there's some reason why it shouldn't be split.
Thanks for any help you guys might have!!!
Snyde

That sounds ok. I never thought about just pulling the the axle back, DUH. I was in such a panic when I wrote this I thought I'd have to completely remove the wheel and all the associated crap.
Thanks,
Snyde

Got it all back together, thanks for the help! I didn't find that "sweet spot" initially, but with enough adjustment with my floor jack,(on my bike lift), wiggling the tire, and just the proper amount of swearing, I got it all back together. Then I moved to the front brakes. What a "piece of cake" compaired to the rear brakes. I should have done those first, so I could see how the anti-rattle spring fits in the caliper. I probably could have gotten the rear spring back in place had I know how it went in place, and avoided the problem in the first place.
My only concern is whether I got the rear belt adjusted properly. I'll have to ride it some and keep my eye on it.
Thanks again for your help!
Snyde

My '09 is easy to do. Just the right wiggling and the calliper comes off it's mount(not according to sev.man.) and hangs on the line while you replace the pads. 'Just sayin.

Charlie, your bike has the new Brembo brakes that came on FL's after '07. To change the pads, you dont even have to loosen axle or move the caliper mount. Very easy job.

Just remove the 2 big allen screws that hold the caliper on the mount and pull whole caliper out (NEVER DISCONNECT THE HOSE!). Then, remove the smaller screw (and small anti-back-out spring) that holds the pads in the caliper, and old pads will fall out.

Use a flat bar to easily pry open the 4 pistons; slip in new pads; insert smaller allen screw and little spring; set caliper on mount; insert 2 larger allen screws; tighten all screws. Done in 10 minutes.

That's OK. The older style H-D brakes are really not that bad anyway. They still use them on all the new Softails, Dynas, and Sporty. But on any brand of brakes, don't split the caliper or remove the brake hose.

I understand. No harm, no foul. I didn't take it personal. I was just saying "bust away", but watch out 'cause Karma has a way of catchin' up to the "buster".
I appreciate all the help you guys give me, and I hope I can return it someday. A little ribbing, and comedy is all part of the game.:roflmao:

Hey, I just ordered progressive rear shocks for my S.Glide. Maybe I can give myself some more years to my riding abbillity. Lower back is starting to show the years. From Dennis Kirk $298,free shipping.

What shocks you order? Rider's backrest is what's keeping me in the saddle, along with decent shocks

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

416-1608A-13. They'er 13" compared to 11.5"(StreetGlide). SO,I won't need 40PSI in them as I do now. Probbably 20PSI.