1985 EVO FLHTC RPM at MPH

Back on the road and the tab on my speedometer snapped at the hub. Going to check new cable installed and speedometer head.
Can anyone tell me what rpm should be on this model at 70 mph?

It should be revving about 3000-3200 RPMs and love to do it all day long

Nice to hear its coming along, I remember the pics in showcase. Guess you been showing her the love..

Replaced cam sensor plate and adjusted air fuel and idle but I am sucking up gas bigtime. She dies after she gets hot and then after 3-5 minutes she will restart and run another 1/2 mile. I took gas cap off to see if vapor locking but there was no vapor pressure coming out of tank. I have the original ignition module but but don't know for sure if that would be the problem. If it were wouldn't happen from the start. This module does not get hot sitting on the frame? where does one go from here?

Sounds like it could be the coil...There's a test in the service manual....3 ohms primary resistance . Put multimeter on the R x 1 scale(the 2 terminals with the ignition wires) and around 10-12,000 ohms secondary(where spark plug cables plug in)R x 1000 scale... Don't have the manual handy so verify those values....

resistance is within specs. manual goes on to use a jumper made out of 16 gauge wire and .33 mfd capacitor or a condenser from an earlier breakerless point ignition. I will try putting the jumper together if I can find where to get the capacitor or condenser. Does anyone know where ands what to get?

Not familiar with that test....since the failure happens after the bike gets up to temp,use a heat gun to simulate the temp and test the coil....also if you have the original breakers(main& ignition circuit)you might want to replace them...do you hear a little click before it restarts??Is it only the ignition circuit looses power??

An Auto parts store or electronics shop should have the capacitor or condenser you're looking for...Is that test to bypass the coil??

Pretty sure your ignition module has a separate ground wire,make sure that is clean and tight...

The test is the last step before condemning the coil. You remove the blue lead or negative side to the coil and momentarily touch the jumper to provide spark. No spark then the coil must be bad according to official manual. I may just replace the coil for $60.00 and get over it. There is nothing that hasn't been replaced by now. I installed a newer ignition module that has a little better curve to it. Coil tested within specs but did not test under simulated heat.

Any ideas on which coil dual or convert to single fire etc. TIA

Single fire would be the better one to get. They say that a dual fire is "wasted" spark but wtfk? I just go with single fire.

Depends on the ignition module you picked up...If it's a programmable aftermarket or SE with 4 curve selections and a switch to go from single fire to dual fire get a single fire coil and switch to single fire mode...If your module is an older SE or aftermarket without a switch to go from single to dual...a stock replacement coil is what to go with...
Here's a pic in the link of a Dyna single fire coil...Dual fire coil only has 2 terminals...

http://www.harley-performance.com/single-fire-ignition.html

My '83 FL is 3000-3200 rpms at 70