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2000 Sporty Stuttering

Discussion in 'CVP Stage 1 Tuners Kit' started by Vahomboy, Sep 7, 2010.

  1. Vahomboy

    Vahomboy New Member

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    Ok, first off I've ordered a CV Performance Stage 1 Tuners Kit, EZ-Just Mixture Knob and a replacement mixture packing kit plus another kit to rebuild the accellerator pump as well. Here's my c/p for my issues:

    To start with:
    I have a 2000 883 with a 1200 conversion with a hypercharger. Bought it that way. Bike runs good but has a small stutter every now and then. New plugs and runs premium gas. Bike starts right up and runs down the highway great. Only issues it has is on take off. Sometimes it will act like it misses a time or two then goes on...kinda like a plug miss fires once or twice. But yesterday a couple of times on take off it acted like it was starving for gas on take off and stuttered real bad to the point of where I thought it was going to cut off if I didn't go to higher rpms to get it going. It was ok after it got going. Stutter goes away once it gets going. It's really noticeable when engine is hot (running temp) and not cold. Any suggestions? Thanks!

    Later on:
    Well I played with the carb settings some...more like a lot. I've tuned it two different ways from info I've found. Not really a lot of improvement to report. I've had it where it ran great...five minutes later after I've parked it and headed back out, it's back again. I've even held it wide open throttle from a start and it just sputters, to the point of where it almost cuts off. The only time the fine tuning has had an effect is when I turn it in all the way for it to be closed and then it cuts off. I've ridden it from 1 1/2 turns all the way to 4 - 5 open turns. No real changes. I don't know what jets are in it right now. It seems to be worse when I've been riding it a while. It's not a consistent stutter, more like sporatic, especially when hot. I can ride it down the road, crack the throttle and it goes right away and then a couple seconds later, crack the throttle again and it will stutter/pop and then pick up. Same speed, same amount of throttle. Then under a load you can give it throttle and very briefly, like the blink on an eye, it will skip just like you hit the kill switch and turn it back on...like a cylinder misfiring once.

    So, if I buy the kit to rejet (if you all think that's it) the carb, should I replace the accelerator pump and top diaphram as well? Do it all while I'm in there or just rejet it? The accelerator pump does squirt a good stream when you turn the throttle.

    * I've run nothing but premium gas in it. Started with Sheetz, went to Marathon and now running Shell. The last 3 tank fulls I've added 3 ozs of Seafoam to hopefully help clean the carb out some.

    So, here's where I'm at hoping the "Kit" will solve these issues. Please, feel free to chime in your thoughts, opinions and/or whatever until we get to play with the "Kit". I will update as we go to get this puppy right. :rocket_bike: Thanks everyone! :cheers:
  2. Vahomboy

    Vahomboy New Member

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    Re: 2000 Sporty Stuttering - Updates

    Ok, installed kit today/tonight. Kit plus other items, will detail some. Carb had a 45/170 jet combo. Replaced with kit 45/180 jets. Upon diassembly of carb, there were several things.
    1. Bowl had a red looking substance on the bottom, nothing gritty, more like a stain. Cleaned with carb cleaner, blew out and dried. Wiped clean with towel.
    2. Float level looked good with 18 degree measurements.
    3. Slide area looked gross. Slide "wings" itself were gummed up. Cleaned off real good. Area under rubber diaphram was oily with some black looking gunk. Cleaned out, blew out, ect. Replaced slide needle with kit needle and new kit spring.
    4. Replaced accelerator pump diaphram to be on safe side.
    5. Installed new emulsion tube and everything from the kit. Even double checked the jet nozzle position.
    6. Installed new spring, washer and o-ring on the E-Z Just mixture knob. Back out 2 turns after a full turn in.
    7. Reassembled with new gaskets and such.
    Put everything back together and cranked bike. It ran, a little better than before but some stutter, exhaust tone sounds better. I'll run it tomorrow to get it hot and start tuning and go from there.
  3. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    sounds like your on your way to a great running bike!
  4. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    I had some similar issues with my 96 883 Hugger with a conversion and a better intake system. First, when I bought my bike, I noticed that I had a really bad stumble off of idle. This would last only for a little bit, then it would go away, and every once in a while it would come back. This is before I did my conversion. So, I did the conversion and we discovered that the accel pump was bad. We changed it and the "dead" spot went away. In the process the pilot was changed from a stock 42 to a 44 and the main jet was left alone which for my bike I believe is a 165. I did not know it at the time, but the idle mixture was at like 7 turns out which is useless after 4. My bike still idle like crap and popped a lot, especially while the bike was warming up and also randomly wile riding. Sure there were times to when it ran great, but for the most part ran like crap.
  5. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    Now, you said that your bike has a hypercharger on it. I am curious to know what other mods have been done?? Were the pipes done as well??

    I would suggest going to a 46 pilot and at least a 180-185 main. I have my idle mixture set to about 2 1/4 turns out.
  6. Vahomboy

    Vahomboy New Member

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    It does have after market pipes, no name can be found. I call them drag pipes with no baffles at all, totally straight. ( 2 1/2") I haven't messed with it since the rebuild but i'm going to try to make time today. I rode it some tuesday and it still had some issues with 2 1/2 turns out. I'm considering removing the hypercharger if things continue and possibly baffle the pipes. But time will tell.
  7. cowboy

    cowboy Moderator Staff Member

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    vahomboy find some type of baffle , they don't have to very long , just enough to help , it will help your ride on all the way through the power band
  8. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    VAhomboy,

    If you could, post a pic of the pipes, I may have a suggestion of which baffle to use.
  9. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    You know, I fought very hard against a baffle and I finally put them in, and I would have to say that I very happy that I did. Especially after all of the performance upgrades that I did. :D:D
  10. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    yeah sometimes you have to get hit with a hammer more than once huh LOL

    Khrome Werks makes a great baffle, designed to eliminate reversion (popping)

    Jim at Khrome Werks is the owner and very nice guy, give them a
    call to discuss...

    Pipes make or break a bike on sound, performance and looks. In many cases you compromise on one for the other,

    No baffles - generally = less power

    Unless you drag race a High RPM High HP engine running baffle free drag pipes are the worst you can do...
  11. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    All excellent advice given. I can't stress enough how important some sort of baffle is in straight pipes, especially pipes that are 2-1/2 diameter as mentioned. Open straight pipes that size on a sportster will likely cause heavy crackling/popping during deceleration, loss of low end torque, and overall poor performance.

    Double check for any intake leaks around the manifold, proper seal at the head pipe/exhaust flanges, and your timing as well.
  12. Vahomboy

    Vahomboy New Member

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    Here's a picture. Can you make out the pipes? They are one piece. No slipons. If you need a better, closer pic, let me know what you want to see. The 2 1/2" (ID) part is at the end with side slash tips. Should I put a stock air cleaner back on it with a K & N as well?

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 16, 2010
  13. kenfuzed

    kenfuzed Administrator Staff Member

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    Actually those don't look like drags, more like stock pipes with some sort of aftermarket slip-ons. In order to baffle the slip-ons you'll need to get a measurement of the inside diameter where the baffles once were.
  14. Vahomboy

    Vahomboy New Member

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    I actually went and looked again. No slip-ons. The pipes are a one piece design. Found holes where there could have been a baffle at one time. The inside diameter is 2 1/2 inches and from the shortest part of the slash tip to where the pipe reduces in size is 10 inches max.
  15. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    inexpensive baffle for a little back pressure....use the same hole that is there....it may need to be enlarged.....slip this little trick in the pipe. it is adjustable by turning the baffle....this trick has been used for decades.......you will need to adjust the size of the washer for the size of your pipes....

    Attached Files:

  16. Vahomboy

    Vahomboy New Member

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    What size washer would you recommend? OR Who makes a baffle to fit it?
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2010
  17. chucktx

    chucktx Moderator Staff Member

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    i would use a 2 inch washer.......check the after market for baffles.....they come in all different sizes.........j and p cycles, kurikan, ect.........
  18. HarleysLR

    HarleysLR Active Member

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  19. JohnnyBiker

    JohnnyBiker Well-Known Member

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    So your ID is 2 1/2" so that means that you are probably looking to get 2 1/4" baffle. I would look at J&P, they have a very large selection of baffles. I did not see any that were 2 1/2", I only saw 2 1/4". Hope this helps.

    You were asking if you should take your hyper-charger off? I wouldn't. It is possible to get your bike tuned to that hyper-charger. It will take a little bit of jetting and the baffles. With that combo, you should be able to dial it in. :D
  20. Vahomboy

    Vahomboy New Member

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    Re: 2000 Sporty Stuttering More Updates

    I took you guys advice on a baffle. I'm too tight to buy so I made one or two shall we say myself. I made them out of exhaust pipe parts/couplings. They look very similar to these pictured. I should have taken a picture. I started with a pipe reducer 2 1/4 ID > 1 7/8 OD. Took 2 of those and connected them with a 4" piece of 1 7/8 ID. The whole thing is about 8 1/2" long. Almost a perfect fit, very little space on 1 side. I do see a major difference in the torque it now has. More pulling power. It's a little quieter also, no raspy back talk when changing from 1st to 2nd.

    I still have some stuttering, not as bad. Might have go to a 46 pilot. It seems to do it worse when sitting at a light and then pulling off. Yesterday I hit it going down the road, stuttered like a plug went dead, let off and immediately hit it again and took right off. ?? I can screw the pilot out 4-5 turns and the engine doesn't change much, only when it's screwed way in.

    I'm trying to get all this done and get ready to leave Wednesday for vacation. Going bobsledding in Jamaica, going to Hell in the Caymens and Jeep 4x4ing Mexico.

    While in Daytona will stop by Bruce Rossmeyer's Destination Daytona and poke around a bit.

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