66 tooth ring gear install ?

Anyone know how to remove the stock ring gear and install a 66 tooth ring gear on the clutch basket of a '04 TC88? Is the stock ring gear bolted or pressed on? How do you get the stock ring gear off the clutch basket and how do you put the new ring gear on the clutch basket? I see that Custom Chrome sells a 66 tooth ring and 10 tooth pinion for about $60.00 as opposed to Rivera's price of $110.00. Is CCI's price too good to be true?

Thanks.

TexasTripod

The ring gear is riveted in place. Carefully drill out the rivet being careful not to damage the hub and then press it off.

The problem is that the ring gear would be right but the jackshaft changed in '94. The Rivera kit includes a pinion gear designed to work on the '94 and later jack shaft. The kit also includes the hardened bolts.

Rivera's kit works and is a well thought out fix for the problem and worth every penney.

Thanks for the reply. Cheap is as cheap does.

I guess I am better off buying the new clutch basket with ring gear installed and pinion gear for about $230.00 to get around the drilling, cutting, pressing, and anything else. Hopefully you guys sell that CCI part, the large capacity (cfm) replacement air filter for the Arlen Ness Big Sucka I and maybe even the 2.5" baffles for the Bassani True Dual mufflers (old style, not the megaphone mufflers).

Thanks again.

TexasTripod

I'm just barely a mechanic and I did this mod to mine. It's not that tough, just be careful on the drilling.

Thanks for the encouragement.

Does anyone have any idea if the stock starter will spin the motor appropriately with the 66 tooth combo, everything being equal? Or is the higher torque starter a mandatory addition when you go to 66 tooth? I just thought I would try the 66 tooth combo before I bought a high torque starter to see if this first step will cure the problem (after I move the starting cell advance closer to TDC than it is now which is about 12 deg. BTDC). I am having mild kick back on occassion trying to start my 114+ c.i. TC88.

TexasTripod

The RPM is going to be based on the starter / batteries ability to turn over the engine. In other words if the starter can only get up to say 1000 RPM then the ring gear will spin the basket at about 136 (66-9 ratio) RPM and that will be increased by the gear ratio between the basket and the compensator.

High compression engines with high lift short duration cams and low overlap can have very high cranking compression. In that case, you need to take advantage of everything you can. High copper content cables like Terry brand, maybe a more powerfull starter, battery is always fully charged and a tender used when not running etc.

https://www.directparts.com/static/articles/motorcycle_gears.htm

I actually went from 10:66 to 10:82. I had already chewed up one ring gear, and burned up one starter. I was trying (succefully, so far) to reduce the load on the starter. I've got the 100 cu in RevTech, and in spite of their claims that the cam is such that the high compression is not a starting issue, it was and is. I also put it on the charger about once a week or immediately if I only take a short ride that might not fully recharge the battery.

Thanks for the guidance.

Gonna order the ring gear today.

Texas Tripod

Just remember that installing compression releases in Revtech engine voids the warranty.

RevTech explained to us that they had several engines with burned piston tops right at the point where the air could enter on the down stroke. They found that the releases were carboned up and were hung open. Cold air was being pulled into the combustion chamber on the down stroke which made the chamber get a tad warm.

So, if you install them in a RevTech engine, maintain them as you are supposed to. Take them out and clean them with at least every oil change. If you have a problem, I would make sure to remove them before trying to get warranty work done.

Good info on the compression releases and hot spots, CD. I wondered how that happened. A loose spark plug might cause the same problem, no?

HotRK: I have the compression releases and PolyDyn coated pistons and chambers, so I will retard the timing on the DTT WEGO II unit in the 500 rpm and below cell from around 14 degrees to maybe 11 BTDC and see if that helps. The DTT WEGO II is very sensative to any hesitation on starting and especially any kickback or burp to the extend that it will set a code and cause you do to a Chinese Fire Drill with knobs, buttons, switches, compression releases etc. before you can restart it. It looks impressive at a stop light when it turns green since everyone honks at you in amazement at your dexterity. I guess that is why they are honking.............. .

I run about 200 ccp, more or less at about 10.2 to 1 ratio. Thanks for the ideas.

Texas Tripod