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76 FLH Electraglide BAD rear brakes

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Tech Talk' started by BigNick, Aug 26, 2018.

  1. BigNick

    BigNick New Member

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    I have a problem with my rear brake. It takes a lot of brake petal pushing to do much of any slowing down. I put new rear caliper and pads, new master cylinder and have terrible brakes. I have to push very hard to make brake light come on also. Maybe that means something. I need suggestions if you guys can help me. Thanks B Nick
    BigNick, Aug 26, 2018
    #1
  3. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    the only thing I can think of if your bike is older maybe the rubber brake line is ballooning. ive seen that on metric bikes
    Fatboy128, Aug 26, 2018
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  4. BigNick

    BigNick New Member

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    I will check that today. Thanks for the help.
    BigNick, Aug 27, 2018
    #3
  5. charlie46

    charlie46 Well-Known Member

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    I would open the bleeder valve on the caliper and see if you get flow when you press the pedal. If you get good flow with no air your problem is in the caliper.
    charlie46, Aug 27, 2018
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  6. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    is the pedal travel soft/easy, while you have to press hard to get brakes is it possible that you're at the end of the travel of the pedal

    If you have no rear brakes and light (the light switch is pressure activated) then it's likely there is air in the line.

    If you pump the rear brake pedal does it get harder to press.

    A miti-vac tool is good for getting air out of the rear brake lines
    on HD's problems are that it's horizontal. You can get them at Harbor
    Freight.

    Other than that the new MC may be defective,

    Bleed the brakes again and try and get good pressure.
    hotroadking, Aug 27, 2018
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  7. BigNick

    BigNick New Member

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    Seems like it might have a little much play in the petal and im going to see about thesoftness ,Im almost sure its not soft. I bled it over and over while replacing caliper. It doesn't get any tighter when pumping up,once bled, but having to stand on the petal just to get the brake light to come on made me buy a new sending switch when I first replaced everything. That didn't make the light come on sooner with less pushing. I have a mity-vac tool but I used a large syringe on getting air out of the front brakes. I pushed fluid in from the caliper and saw the last few bubbles come out of my master cyl. reservoir. I guess I could try that on the back brakes then start on replacing the caliper and on to the master cyl. Is a Jay-brake master cyl. stronger than stock or do you know? Im still learning . I got in a jamb up out on the interstate and just about messed up because of the rear brake not working. This is my first disk brake bike. My 59 pan has the old shoes, but they work great on that ride.
    BigNick, Aug 27, 2018
    #6
  8. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    When you press the pedal, do you get immediate hard resistance or does it travel
    a bit and eventually stop, then you put more pressure on to get the brake to work/light to activate?

    The pedal should be really firm from the first press, and remain resistant.

    The brakes being hydraulic, and the line running horizontal make bleeding
    rear HD brakes a PIA..

    I've bled mine, had no pressure, gave up for the night and the next am
    they were firm, indicating an air pocket, When using hydraulic brakes
    the air bubble acts as a block, you move the pedal but it can't push through
    fluid to get past the air pocket.

    Remove the cover on the MC, fill it, hook up the Miti-vac to the caliper, build
    up pressure and pop open the bleed valve, add pressure let it pull, watch the MC
    fluid, it should drop, add more if you need. Tap along the brake line
    with a screwdriver handle to disloge/shake loose any stubborn bubbles.

    You can jack up the bike with a floor jack where the rear is higher than the front
    (not a lot) just so that the bubble is forced to move up.

    I'm betting you have little pedel pressure and a bubble in the line.

    I could be bad parts but most likely air is trapped somewhere..
    hotroadking, Aug 27, 2018
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  9. BigNick

    BigNick New Member

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    I appreciate all the info! All the things you mentioned I havent tried and hope to get time this evening. Thanks again.
    BigNick, Aug 28, 2018
    #8
  10. Fatboy128

    Fatboy128 Well-Known Member

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    Hot Road King (HRK) is the man. A wealth of info brother!
    Fatboy128, Aug 28, 2018
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  11. hotroadking

    hotroadking Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Hope it helps out...
    hotroadking, Aug 28, 2018
    #10
  12. BigNick

    BigNick New Member

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    I have better brakes now. I did a few things then tried them. I held brake petal down for 2 days with a clamp to let any bubbles come to the top, and it pumped up quick after that. I also re-bled a couple times then took a large syringe and squirted fluid in from the bleed screw and watched the MC fill up. I also used my mite-vac pump and pulled the fluid threw the bleed screw keeping the MC topped off. Im not sure if its 100% now but its way better and will stop my bike without using the front brake. Thanks for the help guys! BigNick
    BigNick, Sep 3, 2018
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  13. BigNick

    BigNick New Member

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    The rubber end must have been replaced, looked and felt good and solid to me. Thanks
    BigNick, Sep 3, 2018
    #12

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